4 1/2 Resotration Questions

[Rick Rutten]

Hello Everyone,

I am restoring a Stanley 4 1/2 that I picked up. My objective is to have this a well maintianed user vs. a pristine collectable. Two questions:

1. The Japaning on the body is about 80% intact. I am thinking of painting over than with some gloss black. Is that a good idea?

2. The handles have been sanded in preparation for refinishing. They are not down to bare wood but the previous gloss finish is gone. What should I use for finishing them? I can think of maybe BLO or a stain then satin but what kind? What kind of stain was used?

Sorry no pics yet. It on my to do list . It does look nice when it is all clean any shiney though.

Thanks,
Rick

[Brian Greb]

I do believe they where shot with lacquer originally, but I used shellac and wax on mine. I hear poly works well also. As for stain I'm not sure what they used originally. That's just my .02 cents.

[James Taglienti]

A lot of people are talking about overpainting and touching up planes that are 75% or better. i don't know why you would, but go for it if that's what you gotta do. shoe polish works for small spots.

for the handles- they weren't colored with anything until later types, and then it was usually a garnet colored topcoat. the only ones that are stained (to my memory) are the blue-bodied ones, and a couple of years of the black ones. They have that brown stain and even then it's more of a glaze.

[scott spencer]

Rick - I use shellac on the handles because it dries so much faster than other finishes...it also does the job nicely.

As far as paint...I've only painted one that was in really bad shape. Not sure I'd bother for 80%, but if painting it makes it more enjoyable to you, I say go for it.

[Sean Hughto]

This is your user. Do what makes you happy.

I painted a 5 early in my handtool career. It had much less than 80%. I removed what was left before painting though so I would have an even surface.

I like BLO for the wood and sand to bare and to a high grit first.

[Rick Rutten]

Sean I like the look of the BLO on that tote. Is that rubbed or polished after being applied? I am evem more of a noob on finishing!

I have re-examined the Japaning with an eye to preservation vs. painting over. Typical wear on the edges and rust spots along some of the flats. If I grind away the rust then I am removing more Japaning. Is there another way? I may try the acid bath mentioned in the Neander Words of Wisdom. Any other suggestions other than buff and grind them carefully? If I can make the clean up less traumatic them I am open to not painting over the top.

Just thought of a third question: On the frog there are portions painted black. That looks to be a bit thinner than the coating on the top of the sole. Is that black on the frog Japaning as well or just paint?

Thanks again,
Rick

[Randy Briggs]

Sean I like the look of the BLO on that tote. Is that rubbed or polished after being applied? I am evem more of a noob on finishing!

I have re-examined the Japaning with an eye to preservation vs. painting over. Typical wear on the edges and rust spots along some of the flats. If I grind away the rust then I am removing more Japaning. Is there another way? I may try the acid bath mentioned in the Neander Words of Wisdom. Any other suggestions other than buff and grind them carefully? If I can make the clean up less traumatic them I am open to not painting over the top.

Just thought of a third question: On the frog there are portions painted black. That looks to be a bit thinner than the coating on the top of the sole. Is that black on the frog Japaning as well or just paint?

Thanks again,
Rick

You could also go the 3M pad and WD-40 route. Otherwise, Evaporust is a pretty easy route - just be aware if you use Evaporust or vinegar/citric acid that you may bubble up japanning that rust has gotten under. 80% japanning is pretty solid, but its really your perogative for a user.

The frog is japanning as well.

Highland Woodworking sells replacement totes and under their instructions:

For a new finish, we’ll recommend an outstanding oil treatment we invented by accident nearly twenty years ago. Wipe on coat of Watco Natural Danish oil. Apply another round after about half an hour, then after a few minutes wipe completely dry. Allow to cure for about 24 hours, then buff lightly but thoroughly with a white Scotch-Brite pad or 4/0 steel wool. Now wipe on a light coat of tung oil finish (such as the Gillespie product in our catalog—not pure tung oil such as Behlen's). Leave as thin as possible a coating of oil, and go away; do not wipe dry. Let dry 12 hours, buff lightly as above, then apply another very thin coat of tung oil. Let dry at least 24 hours, then buff vigorously with wool fabric, such as an old shirt or sock. This will deliver a beautifully warm finish with a rich glow and extraordinary durability. It looks as if you’ve applied twelve coats of tung oil, it feels more like ultra-smooth bare wood than a layer of finish, and it will last through many years of regular use.

[Sean Hughto]

"Sean I like the look of the BLO on that tote. Is that rubbed or polished after being applied?"

The tote and knob are rosewood. With woods like this - desert ironwood; cocobolo; ebony; etc. - sanding with high grits - 400-600-1000 (or even 0000 steel wool) - will yield a polished sort of surface. The BLO protects it from moisture somewhat and makes the grain pop and shine. After sanding, apply BLO and let it cure at least overnight, then wipe another thin coat and let it cure, etc. The repeated reapplication yields a very nice surface both to look at and touch. I use BLO a lot in my shop for tool handles and on my bench, not to mention on projects. Whenever I have a papertowel with BLO on it in my hand from applying it to something, I look around for something else that could use a refresher coat. This plane's tote and knob have been refreshed repeatedly for years.

[scott spencer]

I gotta admit, that's a pretty cool looking shade of green on that #5 Sean!