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Thread: Radial Arm Saw

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    SF Baaaah Area
    Posts
    39
    Two of the keys to success and happiness w/ the RAS is to #1 install a proper, perfectly flat 1.5" thick top on it, and #2 is to use a 1/4" or greater thickness sheet of ply or mdf as a sacrificial top that is often shifted about and/or replaced in order to keep a fresh zero clearance kerf directly under the workpiece. Instantly, this sacrificial surface will make the table in front of the fence higher and therefore the column height does not have to be changed when swinging miter cuts, it also ensures tear-out free cuts.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    449
    I'm intrigued with this description of the table being higher than the fence. Makes no sense to me. Table higher, then no fence exists. Searched google images trying to get a better idea of what is being described. My dad still has his RAS that I used a lot when I was growing up. But I don't own one. Anyone have a photo showing a table top like this. We just had a back piece, then the fence, then the front table with a sacrificial top.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    PALM BAY FL
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by John Schweikert View Post
    I'm intrigued with this description of the table being higher than the fence. Makes no sense to me. Table higher, then no fence exists. Searched google images trying to get a better idea of what is being described. My dad still has his RAS that I used a lot when I was growing up. But I don't own one. Anyone have a photo showing a table top like this. We just had a back piece, then the fence, then the front table with a sacrificial top.
    Cabinet_Wheels_Mounted.JPG

    My back boards are about 1-1/8" thick, the main top is about 1-1/2". This allows swinging the arm whilst the head is in the parked position behind the fence.
    - Beachside Hank
    Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    449
    Got it. That makes sense.

    Quote Originally Posted by HANK METZ View Post

    My back boards are about 1-1/8" thick, the main top is about 1-1/2". This allows swinging the arm whilst the head is in the parked position behind the fence.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,757
    If you need portability, buy a SCMS. If you don't, get an old Dewalt or similar RAS. The radial arm saw will likely be a LOT cheaper and, as mentioned, is a lot more versatile.

    John

  6. #21
    I like my RAS. Recently I made a 10" ladder out of a couple of pressure treated 2x4's for uprights and 5/4 stock for rungs/steps. I cut nine 1" dado's on each upright at a 15 degree angle. A piece of cake with a dado head on the RAS. I couldn't use the table saw as the stock was too long and sliders don't work with dado heads (to the best of my knowledge). I suppose a router with a jig would have done the job but I think the RAS was a lot faster.

    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Geibe; 09-12-2013 at 9:43 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    SF Baaaah Area
    Posts
    39
    Thanks Hank! -- Bradley

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bethesda, Maryland
    Posts
    228
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Geibe View Post
    I like my RAS. Recently I made a 10" ladder out of a couple of pressure treated 2x4's for uprights and 5/4 stock for rungs/steps. I cut nine 1" dado's on each upright at a 15 degree angle. A piece of cake with a dado head on the RAS. I couldn't use the table saw as the stock was too long and sliders don't work with dado heads (to the best of my knowledge). I suppose a router with a jig would have done the job but I think the RAS was a lot faster.

    Bill
    Interesting. I did the same thing this week, but my ladder had only to reach a 5 foot platform for a zipline. I set the RAS to make 30 degree cuts with the dado head. It took a number of trial passes to get the dado shimmed to the precise width for the 5/4 stock.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    PALM BAY FL
    Posts
    515
    In making my Bahamas shutters, I had over a thousand slots to cut that would be at a really obtuse angle, plus given the typical length of the stiles, would be a beast to cut. Tablesawing was out, and although a router could be used, it offered no real advantage over the radial saw and in fact would be slower due to the handling cycle. A few hours and scrap finally produced a jig that easily clamped on and off the radial with repeatable accuracy:
    Slot Jig Still (Small).JPG

    With an index slat on the outside of the stiles, each set took only minutes to slot:
    Slotting.jpg

    The full video shows the methods in greater detail, but this is just to illustrate that the radail saw still solves problems that other means struggle with.
    - Beachside Hank
    Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
    Posts
    11
    My Sears RAS still has a sacrificial top layer they used to sell raising it up as well as providing rules for rip cuts and an inch/decimal conversion table. The RAS also is one of those that has digital readouts for all of the angles as well as height and rip values, which makes it a nice feature. It's like adding Wixey readouts for all the functions. I've built a lot of cabinets with this saw over the years.

  11. #26
    RAS is like band saw but there are some functions of it that bandsaw can't do. I have band saw but I'm wishing to have RAS - I can use for ripping, cutting mitered and beveled angles, dadoes, rabbets and cutting grooves.

  12. #27
    Radial arm saws, like this thread from three years ago, are the saw that won't fade away.

    Good saws are out there for not a lot of money.

    Also, thanks Hank for all the nice videos.

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