How am I supposed to make this Incra miter gauge work?

[Dan Friedrichs]

I have an Incra 1000SE miter gauge. I noticed that workpieces are sliding a little bit along the fence when I cut them, resulting in non-square cuts.

I'd like to put some adhesive-backed sandpaper on the fence to add some friction, but I'm not sure that will work with this fence. The attached stop block thing has little protrusions that fit into grooves in the fence (so that even a sharp miter will be "stopped" at the correct length, supposedly), but that means I can't just glue sandpaper to the fence, as it will cover the groves.

Anyone come up with a good solution to this problem?

[Jim O'Dell]

I would think the stop would keep the piece of wood from moving away from the blade. If you aren't using the stop, try some test cuts with it and see if it doesn't cure your problem. If the wood you are cutting is too long to be able to use the stops, maybe a piece of wood that you can use as a "backer" that has the adhesive sandpaper on, and let it ride on the stop. Of course, the more things you add in there, the more deviation from perfect you can be. But might be better that what you are getting now. Jim.

[Will Overton]

The stop blocks should, if used properly, stop the movement. As far as using sandpaper, why can't you apply it, then using a razor blade or X-acto knife, cut out for the grooves?

[glenn bradley]

I am pretty sure that Dan is talking about pieces that are too long to use with the stop block otherwise there would not be an issue. Rather than change fences when I had long or short pieces I actually drilled mine (for the telescoping lock bolts) and reversed it on the gauge so get a larger surface, stuck sandpaper to it and use a shop made stop block when required.

[Larry LaRoque]

My 1000HD manual shows how to make a wooden sub fence and recommends sandpaper be glued to the sub fence, it also shows how the Flip Stop accomodates the wooden sub fence. If you don't find it in your owners manual you could probably download it from their website. HTH.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks for the thoughts, guys.

I know that if I set the stop, I can force the wood against that, and it won't move. But often, I just make a pencil mark on the board, and don't need (or want) to set the stop. So this is a problem for both long and short pieces.

Larry - I do remember reading that in the manual, but if I wanted to build my own fence, I guess I would have just bought the head, and not the complicated fence/stop assembly.

I like Will's idea best - I think I'll try doing that.

(start rant)
When I got this gauge 7 months ago, I posted that I was disappointed with it. Everyone assured me that I would get used to it with time, and that it was simply amazing. I remain unconvinced. The protractor head may be fine, but my problems with the fence/gauge combo are numerous:

1) The fence is too long to be moved to the right miter gauge slot without loosening bolts and moving it over.
1a) Moving the fence upsets the ruler on the fence, so you have to recalibrate it if you ever move it to the right slot.

2) You need a special hex screwdriver to use the fence extension. Why couldn't they have put a thumbscrew on this? (I know I can get my own, but it should have come with one)

3) The hex head screws holding the fence in place are a different size than the hex head screws mentioned in #2, so you need TWO allen wrenches for this thing.

4) Although everyone says "Incra stuff is dead accurate", I was making a very wide picture frame a few days ago, and found that the 45* stop was off by about 0.1* (after wrecking several workpieces)

5) Why couldn't they have textured the fence face just a little?

Anyhow - my point is that I feel this is a poorly engineered product. I would highly recommend anyone considering this product to try it out at the store, first. Imagine how you'd use it to set and make cuts, then consider how much set-up time would be involved, etc.

[mreza Salav]

I have that gauge and like it but only use it for miter cuts.
I have never seen a miter gauge that is as easy/accurate to use for cross cut as a cross-cut sled.

For all my cross-cuts I use my trusted cross-cut sled.
I've put a tape (of this http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43513,43517 kind) on it too and it's dead accurate everytime I cut.
Don't even have to measure/mark the wood. Just lay it on the sled to the measure I want (on the ruler) and cut it.

[Gary Lange]

Dan, I would send your observations and concerns to Incra for them to see. It may or may not do any good but for me it would be some self satisfaction. I have the same item but haven't used it that much to form any opinion yet.

[Cary Falk]

Dan,
I am sorry you are not happy with the 1000se. Everybody's requirements are different. I have had several and the Incra is the best I have owned. My biggest gripe was that silly stamped steel angle that locks the head to the fence. It is not 90 degrees and you have to shim it. I am surprised you didn't mentioned that.

[Zach England]

incra miter gauge

[Zach England]

sorry double post

[Ray Newman]

Seems obvious that since you were not satisfied with this product from the very beginning, you'll never be satisfied with it.

My SWAG (Scientific Wild Arsed Guess) is that it might be better to give it away, or sell it, and buy something that you feel is more appropriate for your needs....

[Tom Esh]

...Anyhow - my point is that I feel this is a poorly engineered product...

Nicely built but yeah, it's just way more "fiddly" than necessary IMO. I replaced some of those what-were-they-thinking hex cap screws with knurled head bolts. Much better. Before I stuck sandpaper to the fence and cut it for the stop, I found myself swaping miter guages all the time. I didn't go the aux fence face route because it just reduces the space (already at a premium) in front of the blade. I'll probably sell it when (if) I come up with effective dust collection for the miter saw.

[James Phillips]

I love mine. I have the 3000SE, which I think they may be selling now as the 1000SE. You do have to get it set up but once you set it up the calibrated settings are true. I like the flip stop fence and it has worked well for me. I keep the hex driver laying on top of my auxiliary force and it stays nice and out of the way but with in reach.

Unlike most folks I have my miter gauge set up on the right side of my saw since the extension table is there. I also never use the "Ruler" on top since when you change an angle it would not be accurate anyway.

I keep my stock miter gauge set at 90 for when I need to quickly square something.

[Prashun Patel]

Dan-
I suggest you get a new one. There are Incra miter lovers and haters. The two camps never seem to meet in the middle.

I'm a lover. I stick some 150g on the fence close to the blade (within 4 inches from it). If I have to cross cut anything that small, anyway, I don't feel safe having it bound by the stop block with my fingers on it.