Anyone have the Craftsman 221240?

[David Lyon]

Looking for user opinions on this saw, anyone care to share?

[Jay Radke]

i have one and like it very much. anything in particular you want to know?

[Russ Buddle]

What kind of saw is it?? Radial Arm. Band. Table. Scroll.?

I may, but do not have the model numbers memorized.

[David Lyon]

i have one and like it very much. anything in particular you want to know?

I'm looking at a used one and wondered if there are any trouble spots to check. Also wondering about overall performance. It's around 4 years old, and he's asking $400, is that a reasonable amount?

[David Lyon]

i have one and like it very much. anything in particular you want to know?

What kind of saw is it?? Radial Arm. Band. Table. Scroll.?

I may, but do not have the model numbers memorized.

Sorry, it's a table saw with the Biesemeyer fence.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

David,

I've had one for years and it's been a solid performer for me. The saw retailed for around $1000 but it wasn't unusual to get one on sale with a Craftsman discount for around the $600 - $700 range. If the saw is running well that's probably not a bad price but you can always try to negotiate it down.

As to performance, the only time it bogged was when trying to rip 8/4 hard maple in one pass with a combo blade. Using my head a bit more and doing it in 2 passes it was fine.

You'll enjoy the saw.

Cliff

[Charles Davis]

I'm looking at a used one and wondered if there are any trouble spots to check. Also wondering about overall performance. It's around 4 years old, and he's asking $400, is that a reasonable amount?

I have this saw and it does a nice job... a bit underpowered... mine also bogs down with dense materials at 8/4... but I'm using a standard kerf rip blade when I should be using a thin kerf... wondering if changing to a link belt would give me a little more ummphhh to...

I remember paying about $600-$700 as well... I guess $400 is reasonable for a lightly used saw... With heavy usage I think the $300 end would be reasonable...

[Will Overton]

Mine is 5 yrs old and is a good performer. It has not bogged down since I ran a dedicated 20 amp (12 ga) line to it. The fence alone sells for around 400 new, so if the saw is in good shape, it's worth that price.


You will enjoy it!

[glenn bradley]

I've had one for a few years. I bought it as a step up from a contractor saw and as yet have had no need to look at upgrading further. This was one of the Orion products (think 'Steel City' before the force out). Great fence, powers through 8/4 ash, walnut, oak, etc. without issue when using a proper blade, cabinet mounted trunnions make initial alignment a breeze.

I've run mine on a dedicated 220v line and a dedicated 110v line. I can feel no difference in performance but both circuits were dedicated an properly provisioned. Right now it happens to be running 110v. Dust collection is good with a 2HP cyclone and an overarm guard. As to the cost; price that fence and you'll see you are getting the saw pretty cheap.

I run thin kerf blades. The Lietz that came with it out performs my Woodworker II for general break down of material. 80T and 24T Freuds for crosscut and rips respectively have served me very well although I have a few other makers blades as well. It spin an 8" Freud SD508 dado stack without issue. If someone offered me a 5HP cabinet saw with a comparable fence I would sure take it but between here and there, I don't have the urge to change.

[Charles Davis]

Glenn, I never even gave the stock blade a try... I just put a WWII on there from the get go... I'll definitely have to give the thinner kerf stock blade a run... do not normally like changing blades since ZCI and taper jig are tuned for the WWII...

Are you using the stock belt? Have you messed with the belt and/or tensioning of it?

[scott spencer]

David - The 22124 came out in 2004, is made by Steel City's Orion division, and is generally well proven and well regarded with very few issues. Probably the most common problem was warping of the extension table, which was really a defect passed through from Biesemeyer....pretty simple to replace. Workbench Mag rated it #1 hybrid saw shortly after it was introduced. It's got cabinet mounted trunnions and an excellent Biesemeyer Commercial fence, along with a 44" wide solid cast iron surface. It'll accept standard throat inserts for a Delta Unisaw. You can also slide the front rail tube over to the right by ~ 10" for a ripping capacity of ~ 40" to the right. I had a 22124 for 3-1/2 years and really liked it. It's since been replaced by a 3hp Shop Fox cabinet saw but the 22124 did very well for me. With good alignment and the proper 3/32" thin kerf blade, I could cut most materials to full blade height with little struggle. $400 seems very reasonable if it's in good shape.

Here's my Epinions review of the 22124.

[Kyle Brooks]

I've had mine for a couple of years and it does everything that I have ever needed it to. I had a guy who builds cabinets for a living tell me with the 3 hp motor it is better to stay below 40 tooth blades. He said you will get pretty much the same cut as the 80 tooth blade and your saw does not feel it as much. He just made the statement that the higher tooth blades take so much more power to run. I have just recently added an extension table to the outfeed side of the saw and love it. That did include zipping through some 3/4 inch MDF. I only wish and maybe in time, I will get a dust collection system in place. I have had to clean the cabinet out several times in the time that I have owned it. I have not changed the belt or switched it to 220. I'm running 110 and for what I use it for it has been great. I did get it at Sears brand new. I was looking at a contractor saw and was going to buy it and they did not have it. I asked the manager what kind of deal he could give me on the cabinet saw. He told me he could do it at the price of the contractor saw, aprox $750. The guy who eventually checked me out gave me another 15% off on top of the price of the contractor saw. I ended up with this saw at the price of a contractor saw with tax added on. I thought I got a pretty good deal and have been very happy with it. Good luck.

[Joe Scharle]

Great saw...but then again I don't ever want a saw stronger than me, ever again!

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, I never even gave the stock blade a try... I just put a WWII on there from the get go... I'll definitely have to give the thinner kerf stock blade a run... do not normally like changing blades since ZCI and taper jig are tuned for the WWII...

Are you using the stock belt? Have you messed with the belt and/or tensioning of it?

The WWII is a great blade by all accounts. I have to believe mine was a lemon. Now that it is time for a sharpening, I am open to giving it another review once it has been re-sharpened by Forrest The stock Lietz cuts very well where a 40T blade is appropriate.

I have a ZCI for my 24, 40 and 80T blades. You will never dread the 60 seconds it takes to change a blade if see the results that task specific blades can give you. Remember, one thing that "does it all" is like the color tan; no one really likes it but no one really hates it either. If you are going through the setup to make one ZCI, you may as well make several. I consider them a wear part.

I tensioned the belt when I first received the saw and have not adjusted it since. I did tear the whole machine down during a shop re-org and realigned it as I was moving the saw and my gara . . . er, shop . . floor is far from level. I have a lot of extra iron on mine and my RT is bolted to it as well so things need to stay stable .

I keep looking for reasons to upgrade to a more powerful saw but, so far have had to spend the money on larger jointer, bandsaw and more wood.

[Dana Nurmela]

I've had one for probably around 5 years now? Other than changing to a better miter gauge, I've never thought of replacing it. It works for everything I ever throw at it.