Better to use 12-4 wood, or 4-4 and glue up?

[Jim O'Dell]

I'm contemplating starting my first piece of furniture. I have a cheap hand-me-down, knock down design corner desk that is pretty awful looking. Can't remember how many times it's been painted, and is 40 years old, minimum. Probably more like 45+. I want something to match the bedroom furniture. This is one edge of the dresser. DSCN2725.jpg DSCN2726.jpg The front corner legs are 3" wide X 2 7/8" deep. Would it be better to glue up to get the size needed, or use some 12-4 solid wood? (knowing I can't get the 3" width) The current furniture looks to be glue up, but not straight. It's like after the glue ups, the pieces were cut on the bias to make the parts. I haven't decided if I will make a drawer, or a pull out keyboard tray. Probably a drawer and have the keyboard on top of the desk like I do now. It will be done in Red Oak to match as closely as possible the current pieces. Thanks for any and all help! Jim.

[Dan Karachio]

Well, one advantage with a glue up is you could use it to practice the method used in Craftsman style furniture to get four sides all with a nice grain pattern. You know, like the Morris chair. 3 pieces to make the body of the leg, than two thinner laminates on two sides to make it all square to whatever dimension you are going for.

[Jim O'Dell]

Baby steps, baby steps!!!! I'll use the best looking side forward and won't care about the rest! Jim.

[Eiji Fuller]

using 12/4 will get you there alot faster but may cost a bit more initially. If it will give you the look you want I say go the most efficient route with the 12/4.

[John Thompson]

12/4......

[John Schreiber]

I have a cheap hand-me-down, knock down design corner desk that is pretty awful looking. Can't remember how many times it's been painted, and is 40 years old, minimum. Probably more like 45+. I want something to match

Jim, I am so glad that I finally read the next line. I was really worried about what a pain it would be for you to match that ugly stuff. I think I'll go to bed early and not make any decisions for a little while.

[Jamie Buxton]

No need to use 12/4 to avoid visible seams. You may be able to get it from your roughsawn 4/4, but you can surely get it from 5/4. You run the 4/4 face diagonally in the post.

Here's a horizontal cross-section through the post. The one light line in it is a glue-up from one piece of 4/4 to the other. As you can see, the front piece only needs to be 7/8 thick to completely hide the glue faces.

[Dave MacArthur]

Jamie, that's very interesting. I've never seen that idea drawn out before... I sure hope you had that already done for something, and didn't just bust out some Geometry whaaa-BAM! If you did, we may have to start calling you Euclid or something, as that is some sharp work!

[Frank Drew]

Jim,

Whatever you do, try to find single boards for the drawer fronts (no glueups !)

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks for the replies! I'm going to have to take the top off the night stand to get a picture of the construction, but the corner pieces are a full 3 X 3 that is curved in the front edge as it wraps around to the side. This will also make it easier to attach the sides. I think I'll do the glue up. Not too worried about keeping the grain where it looks like it's all QS. Just don't want it warp badly while I'm building it. Jim.

edit: Frank, they did a horrible job of that on the drawers on the dresser. I'll only have one short drawer, so it will be very easy to do the front out of one piece.

[Ben Davis]

Baby steps, baby steps!!!! I'll use the best looking side forward and won't care about the rest! Jim.

Jim,

If appearance isn't the primary goal, then I would certainly opt for the glue up. It'll likly be easier to find 4/4 stock with good grain patterns than 12/4 as you'll have a LOT more to choose from. If it was my first go a furniture quality pieces, I'm not sure I could stomach a screw-up on expensive 12/4 stock!