Anyone had experience with the following?

[Moshe Eshel]

Will this work with the JET 1642 EVS2 (220v)? can I adjust it so that when I take my foot off it will stop the lathe? (as a security feature)?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/FS2.html

How do you rate this? will it work well with any of the Oneway chucks?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC58.html

On a different note, I would like to recommend to all of you, at least those who feel the need for a GOOD tool rest, to order from this guy:
Quality work! and no, I'm not affiliated to him in any way just a VERY happy customer!

[Nathan Hawkes]

Moushe, the switch is for a 110V, 15Amp lathe. Your Jet lathe is 220v and even if wired for 110v, would exceed 15 amps. In regards to the PSI stebcenter fitting OneWay products, I've only used the large ones--the talon & oneway models are slightly smaller. I have 2 stronghold chucks, none of the jaws I have could close that small--I have #1,2,3 jaws for the stronghold. I can tell you this; if you buy a OneWay product, you won't be sorry about it.

[Steve Kubien]

I have always been reluctant to purchase any sort of drive centre which mounts in a chuck. My drives are MT2 and I drive thm into the workpiece with a mallet, then I put the whole unit on the lathe. A very light tap seats the spur drive and I bring up the tailstock blah, blah, blah. With a huck mounted one, how do you drive it into the workpiece? Seems like quite a balancing act to get it into the chuck and tighten the chuck without knocking it free. My other, more simplist view is this... How long does it take to remove a chuck and install a drive centre? The answer for me is "not long enough to warrant the expense".

But that's just me.
Steve

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Will this work with the JET 1642 EVS2 (220v)? can I adjust it so that when I take my foot off it will stop the lathe? (as a security feature)?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/FS2.html

How do you rate this? will it work well with any of the Oneway chucks?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC58.html

On a different note, I would like to recommend to all of you, at least those who feel the need for a GOOD tool rest, to order from this guy:
Quality work! and no, I'm not affiliated to him in any way just a VERY happy customer!

Hi Moshe, hope you are keeping well

The foot switch isn't up for the job I'm afraid, there's a way around it, but more involved, you can use a relay switch that you can control with your foot switch.
You basically power the relay switch, on or off with your foot switch, and the relay then powers the lathe.

The opening in the Talon jaws closes to about 11 mm/ ⁷/₁₆", the opening isn't exactly round when closed all the way, so that makes it to big for that spur drive.

I use both the Oneway spur drive and also the Sorby stebcenter, usually I hammer the spur drive into the wood before mounting it into the chuck, but you can also sawcut a cross on the end so you don't have to drive the spur into the wood, though I do this normally, my Oneway Talon chuck does take that without a problem.

Hope this was some help for you

[Richard Madison]

Moshe,

Assuming you had a suitable 220V foot switch, seems like it would be very inconvenient to keep your foot on it while turning. A lathe-mounted switch near the tailstock end might be a lot handier. With flexible cord and magnetic mount you could place it where needed on the lathe.

[Mike Minto]

On a different note, I would like to recommend to all of you, at least those who feel the need for a GOOD tool rest, to order from this guy:

What guy? I'd like to see the toolrest.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Moshe that as has been said won't work with your lathe. Leo had a work around but I sure wouldn't use one. A friend of mine had one for his mini lathe and said it was a pain. After a while it fills with dust and chips. He said moving around all the time while turning didn't work either. He said after a while he would have to stop and clean up the chips so he could keep his foot on it. He finally took it off.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Moshe - I would think any type of foot switch would be a problem. Last thing you would want to do is hunt around in all the shavings for the kill-switch! There are other ways of making your own remote switch - if that is what you are after.

[Dave Mueller]

Moshe,
The typical variable speed controllers state that you should not stop the lathe with the AC power switch. As Nathan points out, it is really only for a 110V non-variable speed lathe. If a foot switch is what you really want to start/stop your lathe, this could work. However, instead of connecting it between the wall and your lathe, you should be able to cut off the connectors and wire it in parallel with the off switch on your controller. I do not suggest that you do this without the help of an electrician, but it should work in place of your start/stop switch.

Having said the above, I agree with Steve and would not use a foot switch...too many other issues.

[Paul Singer]

Moshe,

Is there any other way you could post a link to the guy who makes the tool rests. I believe the rules are you can not post links to other forums but to other web sites is OK. Moderators please correct me if I am wrong.

Paul

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Paul, are you looking for just any "good" tool rest? Do a search, and you probably find as I did, that the Robust comes highly reccomended from this gallery of all knowing folks...... It is a nice tool rest.

[Paul Singer]

I was just looking at all of the options. I know the Robust one is probably the best mostly because of the drill rod on top and the shape.

[Ron Lynch]

[QUOTE=Dave Bryan;1473025]
you should be able to cut off the connectors and wire it in parallel with the off switch on your controller.

Stop switches are wired in series, wire them in parallel and you still have a current path. Other than that you're spot on.

[Allen Neighbors]

I have always been reluctant to purchase any sort of drive centre which mounts in a chuck. My drives are MT2 and I drive thm into the workpiece with a mallet, then I put the whole unit on the lathe.
With a huck mounted one, how do you drive it into the workpiece? Seems like quite a balancing act to get it into the chuck and tighten the chuck without knocking it free. But that's just me.
Steve

Steve, I have two spur drives. One is a #2 Morse Taper, and the other one fits my SN2 Chuck w/50mm jaws. I use both of them in my chucks. That way, I seldom have to remove my chuck. (The MT2 Spur goes into the chuck, and the lower (base) of the jaws lock it into place, so it sticks out just past the jaw surfaces, the same as the spur that's made for the chuck.)
On hardwoods, I use a mallet to pound the spur into the wood, then I take the spur out, and put it into my chuck. Then I align the wood with the impressions made by the spur, and bring up my tailstock. Works for me, really well.
I turn the tenon on the end of the piece next to my chuck jaws, that way I can see to turn it down where it's just barely smaller than the outer rim of the jaws, and that's perfect sizing. Just info.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Moshe,

Is there any other way you could post a link to the guy who makes the tool rests. I believe the rules are you can not post links to other forums but to other web sites is OK. Moderators please correct me if I am wrong.

Paul

Paul you are correct and that is why I had to remove the link.