ZCI -- is it normal for a 10" blade to not be able to be lowered all the way to cut a ZCI? I managed to do it using the plunge method. It worked but was just curious. The blade sits about 1/8 to a 1/4 below the top of the table, but above the insert bottom...
Pulley's, Link Belt, etc: On a friends suggestion I picked up a performance kit (at the woodworking show) including machine balanced pulley's and a link belt. I have to exchange one of them as they gave me the wrong size for the motor pully, but the biggest problem was I COULD NOT REMOVE THE ARBOR PULLEY. It's held on to the shaft with a nut... the shaft has a hold in the center at both ends, but I couldn't keep it from spinning to lossen the other nut. Has anyone done this on a contractor type saw?
I think I have them out of alignment, when turning the saw on, I get a big initial vibration, perhaps a bang noice, but then everything's nice an smooth. When trying to replace the arbor pulley, I removed the motor and may have something loose OR the pulley's may be slightly out of alignment. Any ideas?
Table-Blade alignment: I made a small jig for the miter slot and my dial caliper and got the slot to within .002 front of blade to back measuring the same tooth on the blade each time. I'm going to try and get it dead parallel, however when I tighten the rear trunion, the undercarriage assy. moves slightly. Any suggestions to help keep it stationary once I've got it parallel?
Other than that, this thing is a dream! I ripped some 8/4 mahagony with my 50th combo blade and it was smooth, didn't bogg down the motor, nothing. Amazing. Incredibly smooth cut, no saw marks -- or at least minimal. What a diffrence between the BT and this one!
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