Tenoning Jig.

[keith micinski]

Does anyone have any experience with this tenoning jig from woodcraft? I have never used one before but I see them on tv being used all of the time and it does look better then my current way of making tenon's with a dado blade.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...oning-Jig.aspx

[Phil Rose]

That's the same jig I use. I''ve never used any other commercial made jigs for this work, so can't comment to how it stands up from that perspective. However, it's clearly a step above other methods (dado blades) IMHO.

[Will Overton]

Except for one of the Delta's that has the handles in line, one behind the other, all tenoning jigs are about the same. The only problems I've ever heard with any of them, wasn't the jig, but the saws. I believe it is Jet saws and some right tilt saws that have the miter slots too far from the blade. Looking at your link, that's a nice price.

[Dick Bringhurst]

The latest Delta jig can be adjusted for the miter slot distance to the blade. Dick B.

[Andy Sowers]

I just bought one when Woodcraft was doing their garage sale last week... I think I got it for $36 w/ free shipping.

It just arrived yesterday, and I spent about an hour removing the packing grease from it. This seems consistent with other reviews I've seen on the woodcraft jig.

I haven't actually cut anything with it, but I have something planned for the weekend.

It comes setup for right tilt saws... it was a pretty easy configuration to convert to left-tilt... but at least when you do that for my saw (Sawstop PCS) it significantly reduces the thickness capacity of the jig. For me, this isn't a big deal, I don't think. I may actually convert it back to the right tilt configuration to see if that will work better without compromising the capacity.

Hope that helps.
andy

[Thomas L. Miller]

Keith,
I have this tenoning jig from Woodcraft and have used it for about a year. I have no complaints and am able to dial tenons in very, very accurately. I use it with my Sawstop iCS and haven't had any tenons yet it can't cut. I just finished a Harvey Ellis/Gustav Stickley bookcase with a bunch of mortise/tenon joints and each one came out perfectly. I was even able to dial in the through tenons for a "just so" fit. Hope this helps.

[glenn bradley]

I have the Rockler version (Jet/Powermatic painted blue). It has done all I could ask. I have seen ones costing twice as much that appear to be the same quality. I've used mine several times over the last few months. I still use other methods as well. It is my go-to for bridal joints and sliding dovetails.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Keith,

I have the Rockler version and bought it while on a business trip to Dallas/Ft. Worth. They shipped it to my home.

When I first tried to see how it fit, I was shocked. As stated, the guide for the miter slot wouldn't allow it to line up properly with the blade.

Then I noticed the 2nd set of holes on the bottom. By moving the bar that rides in the miter slot to the 2nd set of holes, it aligned and worked perfectly.

Basically, they are all the same and work well.

[Dave Cav]

I have the Grizzly version (different color is the only difference) and it works great. I have a Delta at school and it's identical and works fine, too, but it cost twice as much as the Grizzly. The Woodcraft should work fine once you get it set up, and that's a good price.

[Myk Rian]

I use the Delta version quite frequently.

[keith micinski]

I am assuming there is an adjustment for the width of the mitre bar to fit snugly inside of the slot on my table. Is that case?

[Carl Beckett]

and have used one other version.

In the one you are looking at, the work is held to the right of the Jig. I prefer this.

The other one I used was flipped and the work held on the left of the jig - I didnt like this as much.

I DO run into limits on thickness of stock from time to time - where I have to clamp a board in between the jig and the workpiece, to space it so I dont run into the jig itself. This is in part due to my sequence of cuts, prefering NOT to rely on a constant thickness of the workpiece, and always referencing off the same side of the workpiece for both sides of the tenon cut. (this just seems to me to yield more uniform thickness of the tenon)

I have tried other methods, but use this fixture for most all tenon cuts now... very easy, accurate, and quick.

[John Thompson]

I've used one for two years and it if very accurate once you dial it in. There is a small amount of slop in the miter bar-miter slot mate but I stand a tad more left and keep the bar tight to the miter slot which is part of the dial-in I referred too. I cut 28 tenons last night and have cut over 1000 with it in the last tw3o years since I got it. I just finished a Mission Twin bed which accounted for almost 100 alone..

Good jig for the money.. I've used home-made jigs.. the band-saw.. hand cut over the years and I prefer the one you are thinking about...

Good luck...

[keith micinski]

So it sounds like the mitre bar doesn't have any adjustment built into it. I guess. I wasn't aware it was setup for use on the left side of the blade though. I do all of my work on the right side of the blade. Does anyone know if you can turn this around to work out of the right slot? I wish the Woodcraft store had one of these in stock so I could see it in person but they don't so that's why I am asking all of the questions.

[Peter Luch]

Just used my Delta one two days ago, the first time in over a year.
Was happy at how easy it made it and how I could dial it in, sneak up on the cut till it was perfect.

Aloha, Pete