PT wood for inside project?

[Dan Bundy]

A college age friend asked me to help him make a loft bed for his apt. We are planning to use 4x4s for the legs, but all we can find so far is pressure treated. My initial feeling is that this isn't a good idea. If we can't find "plain" 4x4s, would there be a problem with laminating 2x4s together with some kind of polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue)?

Thanks.

[Scott T Smith]

Laminating a couple of non-pressure treated 2 x 4's would be a better choice, IMO. Or you could check with a local sawmill owner and see if they have any dry 16/4 wood in stock.

Rather than gorilla glue, you'd probably be better off with Titebond II or III. For one thing, less mess to clean up and cleaner glue joints.

[John Thompson]

Laminate.. Tite-bond as suggested IMO also. I would not even consider PT for inside furniture of any type...

Good luck...

[John Shuk]

Non pt 4x4s is shouldn't be too hard to find. Chemical leaching aside, kiln dried wood is much more stable. Keep looking.

[Curt Harms]

I was looking for some non-PT and found them at a local "home center", not a borg. If I recall, a couple years ago a construction grade 4X4 was around $14, a clear "appearance grade" was $22 or so. Laminating a couple 2 X 4's would be a lot cheaper.

[Todd Murray]

You should be able to find 4x4 cedar post pretty easily at any BORG, I would use that before PT for sure.

[Mark Berenbrok]

I would consider ripping a 2x10 in half. That gives you some wiggle room during the glue-up. 2x material around here is SYP and you can find some nice boards by picking thru the pile, while 2x4s can look pretty ugly. Planing the boards to about 1 3/8 will give you a good clean surface for the glue-up.

[Robert McGowen]

I made a set of queen size bunk beds laminating 2"x4"s together. I used titebond II and several screws per board. I countersunk and plugged the screw holes and it turned out just fine. It has been in use for several years now without a problem.

[Jim Becker]

I was in Home Depot on Sunday morning and they had nice Douglas Fir 4x4 for about $11. I would not ever consider using PT wood for interior use unless it was going to be covered up with something else and was there for a specific reason/need. Aside from the chemicals...it's sopping wet when you buy it and shrinks like no tomorrow...

[Cody Colston]

I was in Home Depot on Sunday morning and they had nice Douglas Fir 4x4 for about $11. I would not ever consider using PT wood for interior use unless it was going to be covered up with something else and was there for a specific reason/need. Aside from the chemicals...it's sopping wet when you buy it and shrinks like no tomorrow...

The Home Depot in Tyler also carries the Fir 4x4's. Not only is it a better choice, it's also cheaper than the PT by about 30%.

You can also glue up the legs from 2x4's as has been stated. I agree, too, that Titebond is a better glue choice than Polyurethane, especially for furniture. Poly = messy and inconsistent results.

[Dan Bundy]

thanks for the reinforcement. Dan

[Van Huskey]

If you find nice 2x10s with the right grain when you rip and laminate them you could have a nice book match grain pattern one one side which you could use for the front if you are not painting it. If it were me I would laminate 2X material before using non-PT 4x4s even if I could find them, it is hard to get ones that are dimensionally stable over the long hual. I would NOT use PT period.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

PT is green. Get Kiln dried wood.

[Tony Bilello]

I would glue up 2X4's for all of the reasons mentioned above.

[Lee Koepke]

I second Vans comment above. I used some non-treated 4x4x in my basement (its rustic themed log siding, western saloon type ) and as they dried a bit more they split. It works in my environment, but I wouldnt personally use it for 'furniture'.

Best of Luck!