Rust & stuff ...

[Ken Kirkeby]

During a recent move, my jointer and T/S have been in storage (the jointer still isn't talking to me). There's little light rust so I going to experiment with naval jelly on one and sanding/WD40 on the other. After reviewing several posts, people generally use paste wax to seal. Is there a reason liquid wax isn't used?

TIA ... Ken

[Ted Shrader]

Ken -

In principle, no problem. The paste wax most commonly used, Johnson's, contain no silicones. Check the ingredients on the jar of liquid to be sure it doesn't contain them.

Silicone, if transferred to the wood, will most likely cause problems with the finish. It shows up in the form of fish eys in the finish.

Regards,
Ted

[Lee Schierer]

I would not recommend Naval Jelly. I know they say it removes rust, but removing the residue it not easy. I would recommend scotchbrite and WD 40 or Scotcbrite and Boeshield T-9. You can place the scotchbrite under your vibratory or random orbit sander and polish up the surface in no time. Sandpaper is likely to remove too much material and may leave scratches.

After the scrubbing is done and the rust is gone, clean the surfaces with mineral spirits. Then apply several coats of Johnson Paste wax. Automotive waxes generally contain silicone and should not be used. Protect the surfaces by lots of use and regular applications of paste wax.

Boeshield T-9 is a more effective rust protector, but, I find it leaves a sticky residue that attracts dust.

[Dean Baumgartner]

I'll second the wd40 and scotch brite. Make sure to use a backing block and try to uniformly work the entire table top and not just work heavily in bad spots as this could lead to a low spot in the table top.


For protection i used to use just Johnson's Paste Wax but in my detached shop I've found that this was not adequate protection. Now my cast iron gets a coat of Boshield followed by 2 coats of JPW. The Boshield provides the protection while the JPW gives it that nice slick surface.

Dean

[Cliff Newton]

You can place the scotchbrite under your vibratory or random orbit sander and polish up the surface in no time.

.

Thanks for the great tip. My Grizzly tools are all shining like new pennys now.

[Mark Stutz]

When I got my Boeshield, it came in a package with rust remover. I had very light rust on the jointer due to humidity (and inactivity ) and it worked great. Sprayed it on, virtually no rubbing, and wiped it off.

Mark

[Ken Kirkeby]

I'm having a tough time finding Johnson Paste Wax mentioned in this thread. Is Minwax Paste Finishing Wax a suitable sustitute?

[Chris Padilla]

I'll second the wd40 and scotch brite. Make sure to use a backing block and try to uniformly work the entire table top and not just work heavily in bad spots as this could lead to a low spot in the table top.


For protection i used to use just Johnson's Paste Wax but in my detached shop I've found that this was not adequate protection. Now my cast iron gets a coat of Boshield followed by 2 coats of JPW. The Boshield provides the protection while the JPW gives it that nice slick surface.

Dean

Dean...right on. Put the slick stuff on AFTER the Boeshield T-9 rust protection. I have a can of Slip-It to provide a slick surface.

Ken, all paste wax (Johnson's) is is beeswax and mineral spirits mixed together. I know, I know...you can't find beeswax, either, right? Any number of online sites have JPW. I use Slip-It that I picked up from Grizzly's.

[Gary Max]

I also use Slip-it---for eveything from my work bench to my saw tables.
I use a can about once a year---it goes a longgggg way

[Bob Weisner]

Depending on how big the rusted peice is, you could take and put it in a plastic bin of some sort and fill the bin with regular Vinegar. Let it set for a few days fully under the vinegar and the rust should come right off with just a cloth.

Bob

[Ted Shrader]

Ken -

Check your local grocery store. They generally stock it over by the Pledge, etc. Minwax will work, but the JPW is a little cheaper (and not colored).

Ted

[Ken Kirkeby]

I spent two days searching Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, True Value. Never thought of the grocery store.

doh!

[Dave Moran]

I'm having a tough time finding Johnson Paste Wax mentioned in this thread. Is Minwax Paste Finishing Wax a suitable sustitute?

Ken, I use Minwax just fine. Now if you wan't it to go deep and be quite slick, use a heatgun to warm the cast iron just ahead of where you are working the wax in, then oce the solvents have evaporated, use your nose, use a hard felt block and the heat gun, talk about slick, if a fly lands on the surface he is going to slip and break a leg.

[Kurt Aebi]

Ken,

I use Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax (local ACE carries it) - No silicone and is pretty much the same as the Johnsons & Minwax.

I use scotchbrite pads under the ROS to "buff" up all my cast tools in the shop and the Butcher's wax makes the top a little slick and the wood seems to slide on it well without picking up any of the wax (I am sure it does, but I have yet to see a finish get spoiled from it)

My shop is only heated when I am going to use it, so the Wax is a Must fo rmy shop!