thin panel moulding

[alex grams]

I am working on a project that is going to have some thin panel moulding (~1/2" wide) which I will attach to the face of a panel). Is there a best method to apply and hold these while the glue is drying? The wood is oak, so any pin or brad would easily split the moulding, and given their small size and shape, I am not really seeing a good method to apply and hold pressure while the glue dries.

Thanks in advance.

[Randall Frey]

I would consider using CA glue. This stuff is great, if you haven't tried it I would suggest giving it a try. Use it without the accelerator, just apply it to the molding, apply the molding to the work piece wait a few seconds, let go and your done. No pins, no clamps, no mess. By not using the accelerator just gives you a little more working time. This glue is not structural but for what it sounds like you are doing, it would work perfectly. The stuff is called 2P-10, get the medium visc, here: http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Pro...f-2d8c63a984df

good luck

[Jamie Buxton]

A pin nailer (that is, a 23-gauge pin nailer) will not split oak that is half inch wide. It'd be spendy for just one job, but if you're going to be doing a lot of stuff like this, you might consider it.

[Dan Friedrichs]

A pin nailer (that is, a 23-gauge pin nailer) will not split oak that is half inch wide. It'd be spendy for just one job, but if you're going to be doing a lot of stuff like this, you might consider it.

The Harbor Freight one (on sale for $9) is one of their "gems-in-the-rough".

[Lee Schierer]

Place the panel face up on a flat surface and use weight to hold the pieces in place. To prevent tipping place a piece of scrap parallel to the piece being glued and then span the space with a small board. Place your weight on the small board. You can use blue painters tape to keep the piece from moving while you put the weight on.

[alex grams]

hmm... several good suggestions.

Randall, would the CA glue fume any and affect the finish around the application area?

I think the CA glue or the blue painters tape are the forerunners at the moment. The pin nailer isn't a bad idea, though cost wise it is a bit steep, and anything with moving parts from Harbor Freight makes me nervous

[Dan Friedrichs]

The pin nailer isn't a bad idea, though cost wise it is a bit steep, and anything with moving parts from Harbor Freight makes me nervous

The pins won't split your pieces, and the HF one really is one of the "very good value" products you can buy at HF. Well worth the price.

Here's an excellent review of it:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=96265

And some general discussion about pin nailers:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=137325

[Dave Gaul]

I'm with Dan... I wouldn't hesitate on the HF pin nailer... might pick one up myself this week with them being on sale!

I have a HF 1/2" crown construction stapler that I got about 6 years ago, and have shot over 5000 staples (seriously, I'm on my 2nd box of 5000 staples) and it has worked flawlessly for me. I also plan to buy a HF framing nailer as soon as the need arises...

[alex grams]

hmm. i bought a nailer kit from Lowe's last year with 4 guns in it. I will have to check to see what all is in there. I can find this one on their website, but mine was 4 guns (no palm nailer) and was red, but I cannot seem to find that one anywhere.

This is all I could find, but like I said, that isn't my kit...

nailing kit

Bleh here is the kit i bought, no 23gauge brad nailer, only down to 18gauge.

[Dan Friedrichs]

You'd be impressed with how small the 23ga pins are - much smaller than the 18ga. They're literally "pins" - smaller than the diameter of a safety pin. The hole they make is so small that you don't even have to fill it. The application you describe is exactly what they're built to do.

[alex grams]

Thanks for the input. Another reason I love SMC.

gotta make a harbor freight run. I think the pins with some PVA glue would be the best approach. That way I have something to secure them with while I glue up the pattern, and that holds them in place while I put a weight load on the pieces while the glue dries. Also, I like the advantage of being able to see everything held in place so I can wipe down any squeeze out.

I did not see anything listed on their website about which pins can be used in the gun. Do they have proprietary pins I have to buy, or do they provide other gun models which pins are interchangeable with the HF gun?

[Dan Friedrichs]

I think most any 23ga pins work. I bought a box at HF, and they're fine. But other brands are reported to work, as well.

[Peter Quinn]

Another fairly expensive option would be the hi-pur system of polyurethane hot glue. It sets very quick so pins are not needed, its very strong, and you can hold it in place while it sets! Costs around $120 for a basic system. I haven't used it but my local supply house had a demo on it and its pretty impressive. Supposed to make many molding instals a cinch.

I'd probably just use yellow glue and 23 GA pins. My PC gun was about the price of the glue gun so on cost its a wash in that regard