New Design project...Bed for night tables Opinions Please!

[Dave Richards]

Yep, the drawing is on its way.

[Mark Singer]

Dave ,

I got it to work! You are terrific! I rotated it to a 3/4 frontal view...and it is almost there. I have designed similar beds with the thin curved back or in some cases 2 backs...I think I am looking more at a more solid side profile. With the curved 8/4 piece butressing the thinner back. Also the frame will probably be all 8/4 with exposed bridal joints. I posted my own bed , I will try to find it. That detail makes it easy to KD (take apart)...which is really important...It really looks nice and I think I will buy Sketch up...how long did the drawing take?

[Mark Singer]

Dave,

Here is my own bed ...check the front joinery , it works great and I will use it here too...I think

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=6961

[Dave Richards]

Mark, glad you got it to go. The original drawing took me maybe twenty minutes. The revisions maybe another ten because I was kind of goofing around and didn't know exactly what I wanted to do.

I think you'll find SketchUp useful for architectural applications, too. Some people use it for that, you know.

Have fun with it.

I'll be interested to see your drawing of your bed.

Dave

[Dave Richards]

I like that bed Mark. I remember seeing it before. I hadn't drawn the joinery at the corners but I think a bridle joint is a good idea.

[Jim Becker]

I think I will buy Sketch up...how long did the drawing take?

Download it "now" and play with it...8 hours is "free". (in quotes because it's a trap...once you use it you'll want to buy it... ) Also, go through the online training "videos" before you start using your time so you get the gist of what you need to do to draw effectively and quickly. You're working in three axis ALL THE TIME, so it's a little different than even most 3D CAD systems.

[Dave Richards]

Jim, you're right on the trap thing.

FWIW, you don't have to work in all three axes at the same time. You can work 2D if desired. Go to the Camera menu and turn off Perspective. You'll have an isometric drawing. Then select the desired view--top, front, left side, etc.

In this mode, your lines will only be drawn in one plane.

Mark, take Jim's advice and spend some time looking at the video tutorials under Training on the SketchUp site. Feel free to ask questions if something's not clear. One of us "users" will be able to help you out.

Dave

[Jim Becker]

FWIW, you don't have to work in all three axes at the same time. You can work 2D if desired. Go to the Camera menu and turn off Perspective. You'll have an isometric drawing. Then select the desired view--top, front, left side, etc.

Well, Go-ah-ah-ly!! I'm gonna have to try that out...thanks for the tip. The problem with any application is there are so many options and sometimes you miss one as you thrash around learning things!

[Mark Singer]

I think we are very close to a final design.....Big question though: I have time tomorrow to pick up the lumber at Austin, Should I do the back coopered from solid wood or veneer on curved laminated plywood sub core. I have done both techniques. I could buy a vacumm bag and pump since it is large. Iwould have to veneer both sides also. I would probably start with Fin Birch core ..3 layers .Make a form MDF to press into...male and female sides.....I am leaning toward the solid coopered technique. I can demonstrare the bent lamination on something else....If I chose a nice grain , I can probably make the staves blend into one piece look.....What do you think?

[Jim Becker]

Doing a coopered assembly would result in a good lesson about grain matching and material selection...

[Jamie Buxton]

I think we are very close to a final design.....Big question though: I have time tomorrow to pick up the lumber at Austin, Should I do the back coopered from solid wood or veneer on curved laminated plywood sub core. I have done both techniques. I could buy a vacumm bag and pump since it is large. Iwould have to veneer both sides also. I would probably start with Fin Birch core ..3 layers .Make a form MDF to press into...male and female sides.....I am leaning toward the solid coopered technique. I can demonstrare the bent lamination on something else....If I chose a nice grain , I can probably make the staves blend into one piece look.....What do you think?

If you're going to use my suggestion about moving the posts inboard, I'd go with solid planks and leave the ends exposed. If you're going to put the posts at the ends, I'd go with veneer -- something really flashy.

If you're going make a bent laminated core, you might consider using bending plywood instead of Finn ply. Bending plywood has just three plies. The middle ply is pretty thin. Because of this, it bends quite well in one axis, and doesn't fight you as much as Finn ply while you're bending it over the bending form. You can roll up 1/8" ply into a tube perhaps a foot in diameter. In fact, that's the easiest way to carry it home. When you laminate several layers together, it gets stiff enough. My local dealer carries the stuff in 3 mm, 6 mm, and 9 mm.

[Dave Richards]

If coopered it would be a good exercise in planing a smooth, fair curve. I was thinking about this part earlier. Veneer on bent ply seems like an easier way to get the smooth curved surface but I'm not certain about the ends. I guess I'd rather see end grain on the ends of the headboard as oppposed to some sort of trim added all the way around.

On the other hand, I'm certainly not good enough with a plane to smooth that large surface. I'm sure you'd do better than I would. I'm excited to see what you've come up with.

Dave

[Mark Singer]

Another idea would be to create a shell....the back would be a layer of ply and venner and the front would as well leaving a hollow center

Section thru back

[Dave Richards]

Hollow would be good. With the curve in the surfaces, I'd guess you'd need few if any internal supports. I know that on my sailboat, the hull sides are 1/4" ply and due to the curve they are not flexible at all. Actually, the cradle boat I did has 1/8" thick planks and they won't cave in either.

I would consider putting something like fiberglass insulation inside the assembly to prevent the thing from sounding like a drum.

[Joe Mioux]

This is another great thread, thank you Mark.

I know I am jumping in late with my comments. With that said and for the sake of my own curiosity, I don't see the continuity between the night stand and the head board. I like the arc of the head board, but the legs look heavy compared to the light - linear look of the night stand's legs.

What is the rational for the heavier looking legs? Would there be a way to incorporate the stainless legs of the night stand into the legs of the headboard?

joe