Chainsaw recommendation

[Brian Kent]

I am looking for a chainsaw recommendation. I have not found the past threads that would probably answer my questions.

I am a barely experienced beginner, having gone through a couple of electric chainsaw-shaped objects that were the cheapest I could find after a storm.

Lots of oleander stands to cut, with clusters of 3" trunks.

The biggest project is a couple of long branches 8-9" in diameter that I want to remove to keep a big tree from tipping later on. Once it is down, I'll cut up for firewood.

Thanks.

Brian

[David Helm]

I've used a number of brands over the years including Homelite and Husqvarna. I find that, for my purposes, the best chain saw I've ever had was and is a Stihl. Hope this helps.

[Ed Labadie]

Stihl, Husky or Jonsered.
The Huskys & J-reds are the same saws with cosmetic & ergonomic differences.
Buy it from a servicing dealer, not a big box store. A good dealer will help you size the saw correctly and get one to fit your price range.

Be sure to budget some $$ for a good helmet system and chaps.

Ed

[Mitchell Garnett]

I don't remember the model number but I've been very happy with my 18" Stihl. I use it for much the same purpose as you describe.

While I know I should maintain it better, I've never prepared it for the off-season yet it still starts quickly with fresh fuel come spring. I've had it for about 8 years now.

For very occasional use for small branches, I've also got an inexpensive battery powered B&D that works okay. I use it when I've got a couple of branches to prune that I missed when I went around with the gas operated saw.

Mitch

[Steve Friedman]

Brian, it's amazing, but I was just about to post the same question, just wasn't sure which forum it belonged in. But I am not sure if I can get a single chainsaw that will do everything I want:

1. I want it to be big enough to cut lots of firewood, since my son heats his home with wood.
2. I want it to be small (light) enough to use for cutting up branches that are too thick to cut with a lopper.
3. I want to be able to fit a carving bar in it to try some chainsaw carving.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve

[Brian Kent]

I've been working outside just now. I tried a bow saw on the oleanders. It worked better just to tip them over and stand on the trunks. They break off below dirt level. That is really dead!

[Greg Portland]

1. I want it to be big enough to cut lots of firewood, since my son heats his home with wood.
2. I want it to be small (light) enough to use for cutting up branches that are too thick to cut with a lopper.
3. I want to be able to fit a carving bar in it to try some chainsaw carving.

IMO it sounds like you'll want 2-3 saws. Growing up my family heated with wood. We had a commercial duty Stihl (there -are- different Stihl levels of quality!) with a 32" bar (similar to the current MS460 magnum model). This allowed us to fall the various large oaks around our property (18-24" @ the base). IMO you are better off cutting down a few big trees and using a splitter versus cutting up a bunch of 6-8" trees. You'll want good sized chunks that will burn overnight, not a bunch of small limbs that will burn down in 2-3 hours.

#2 sounds like an arborist saw (lightweight and compact); the motor head -might- also work for carving with a different bar and chain combo. Talk to a real chainsaw dealer, they'll be able to tell you what bars can work on which motor heads and also what chains are recommended for the applications you're considering.

[Dave Lehnert]

I have a Stihl MS180. It is a great chainsaw around the house. Stihl you buy from a dealer gassed and ready to go. Around $200
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS180CB.html
I would not use it to cut firewood every season to heat my home. That would put you into a Farm Boss.

[Bill Rogers]

Several years back I went to a "good" rental center to gather some information about chain saws. They said that they could buy any brands or chainsaws that they wanted to but that they would only buy Stihl or Husqvarna.

Bill

[Stephen Cherry]

I've got a Stihl that has worked for me, but from the sound of it, you may consider using a sawzall with an appropriate blade. Especially if you already have one. No gas to go bad, and they are very reliable. I just looked on the internet, and they even have a 12" pruning blade.

Just a thought.

[Greg Portland]

you may consider using a sawzall with an appropriate blade.

I have done this in the past and it works provided that the branch is not going to wobble around on you (i.e. sizable tree trunk or branch and you're pruning in against the tree).

[Ryan Hellmer]

While I too am a stihl guy at heart (my dad has 4) I got a 42cc craftsman a few years ago from a guy that got it for Christmas and was afraid to use it (still new in the box). Anywho, that little saw hase been a real performer. I've cut down 3 oak trees (24"+ diameter), 5 hackberry trees, a couple smaller silver maple and a big cedar with that saw and it starts every time, runs great and has been very serviceable.

Again, the sawsall is not a bad choice either, but for $150 (vs the 300++ on a stihl) you'd get a good saw and decent parts support. Stihl saws are super reliable but will get a bit finicky on you if you don't use them regularly or have old gas or... My c'man is just loose enough that it doesn't care, summer, winter, fresh gas, old gas, it starts and cuts things up. BTW don't buy chains from sears, get Oregon or another comparable brand.

Ryan

[James Evans]

having family and friends in the logging industry, and enjoying a little of that also. stick with one of these: jonsred, Stihl, or Husqvarna. they make one in everysize.

[Joe Mioux]

I have had a .023 Stihl (which I believe is now designated 230) for twenty years.

Likes: it works, it isn't too heavy, it isn't too small. ( I have cut 26-30ish" diameter tree trunks with it. The bar is a 16 inch bar.

Dislikes: sometimes I wish I had a longer bar, but that isn't possible/recommended with this size engine, etc. However, the times I need a longer bar is very rare.

If I were choosing a saw now, i would definitely consider the weight. I don't really like handling a heavy saw for long periods of time.

hth

joe

[David Helm]

+1 on what Ryan said about bars and chains. Oregon chains and bars are the best. My Stihl is an 024. I've had it for 20 years and it has never ever been a problem. Sometimes it's months between uses but it always starts and runs well.