I just CAN'T cut through MDF with a 60 watt epilog!

[Nicholas Portalupi]

I have searched this forum for some time now, and nobody seems to have my problem. I am attempting to cut 1/8" MDF in my 60 watt epilog ext, and it just barely gets into the material. I tried 20s 100p 2500f, as I read, and it just made a line. I reduced the speed to 5% and it just burned it and cut a bit more. Our tech guy just came out and tuned our machine up so I'm not sure there is anything wrong with it. I am extremely frustrated. Anyone else had this problem?

[Joe Pelonio]

That's not right, my 45 watt can do 1/4", have even done 3/8" with 2-3 passes.

For mine it's speed 6, 100 power, 600 frequency, just a little slower than 1/4" acrylic. Can you cut that? How about oak or Baltic Birch?

Are you sure it's focused exactly? I also use air assist, but it would cut without it, just more charring.

Maybe some new kind of MDF with something really dense in it?

[Nicholas Portalupi]

We are going to re-examine the alignment right now. I didn't realize that my partner just put the new screws on the lens assembly that epilog sent out to everyone. Hopefully that's it!

PS I am using the deeper focus long cone type laser head.

[Harper Abbot]

We are going to re-examine the alignment right now. I didn't realize that my partner just put the new screws on the lens assembly that epilog sent out to everyone. Hopefully that's it!

PS I am using the deeper focus long cone type laser head.

My 70 watt won't cut some kinds of 1/8 MDF, just chars and smokes and barely creates an indentation along the laser path. Another type cuts like butter, with only a carmel colored darkened edge. I think it depends a lot on the composition of the material.

[Doug Griffith]

I cut 1/4" MDF all day long on my 45w Epilog. No problem. Give or take 13 speed/100 power/5000 freq. Focused half way in. It could be that you are attempting to cut HDF or masonite. That is more difficult but should still cut with your machine. What speed does it require your machine to cut 1/4" acrylic?

Edit: Oops, I meant 500 frequency as Frank mentioned. 5000 = acrylic.

[Frank Corker]

Nicholas I think your frequency settings are too high, the pulsing of the laser is too close and you are getting the full recipe for burning. Knock it back to at the most 500 and try again.

[Michael Hunter]

Something bad with the machine - you should be basting through it at those settings.

Here are the settings for my 60W Epilog -

1/8" hardboard (masonite?) or MDF : S37, P35, F2000
1/4" MDF : S23, P70, F1500

One other possible - there are various grades of MDF, the "best" grade being much denser and having much more glue included in the mix. The glue is the same as the bad stuff in exterior plywood : i.e. laserproof.
The MDF from DIY barns is generally the lightest grade with minimal glue, but you can't depend on this.

[Peck Sidara]

Nicholas,

MDF in general can be difficult to cut due to the small pockets of air and various types of glue used. There are many different grades of MDF which can also affect ability to cut. The end result is typically some charring/burning of the edges. You can adjust the parameters(frequency & speed) to minimize this and you're better off cutting the thinner stuff.

With that being said, I picked up on your comment "deeper focus long cone" which tells me you're using our 4" cone lens. The cone lens directs air in the same direction as the laser beam. The nozzle which both air and laser beam exits is small.

If your laser beam alignment isn't spot on, the laser beam isn't exiting the lens assembly correctly.The loss of power is from the laser beam hitting the internal aluminum housing, diffusing and the only power that's exiting is the deflection.

A few suggestions:

With the cone lens installed, turn on the red-dot pointer. Does the red dot pointer exit the lens and is it bright?

Try cutting the 1/8" MDF with the standard 2" lens. Are you able to cut?

My bet is that you're alignment is slightly off.

Once you get the alignment spot on, try it again.

[Nicholas Portalupi]

We realigned the machine. I have it set up for 5s 100p 2500f with the standard lens. It is taking me 4 passes to get 1/8" acrylic to cut out all the way. This doesn't seem right either. MDF is definitely not cutting any better. Note: I have used the "thumbs down" emoticon in my post.

[Larry Bratton]

We realigned the machine. I have it set up for 5s 100p 2500f with the standard lens. It is taking me 4 passes to get 1/8" acrylic to cut out all the way. This doesn't seem right either. MDF is definitely not cutting any better. Note: I have used the "thumbs down" emoticon in my post.

You should be getting through 1/4" or thicker acrylic in one pass with those settings. Something else is wrong. How about your optics? I'm sure you have checked them. Hate to say this, but it may be that your tube is about to go.

[Michael Kowalczyk]

Nicholas,
Sounds like you may have either dirty mirrors, dirty lens, a laser that is on it's way out or you are out of alignment.
Dirty mirrors are easy unless they are so dirty that they are pitted now.
Dirty lens can be cleaned.
Laser on way out. use power meter to check wattage out put.
Out of alignment- you said you just had it serviced so they should have picked up on this before they left. Have them come back. maybe they left something loose and caused it to go out of alignment or something else????

Hope you get back up and running quickly, at minimal expense and ....

[Joe Pelonio]

I'd definitely be concerned about the tube, with those results on thin acrylic.
Last time my tube went out I could still cut 1/4" acrylic, but at speed 3, rather than the usual 8. When it got down to speed 1, I got a new tube.

[Nicholas Portalupi]

We bought this machine used along with a one year warrantee. Hopefully they back this tube thing up, assuming that's what it is. What is involved in installing a new one? What does it cost? How do I check if that is even the problem?

[Joe Pelonio]

Other than sending it in for testing, it's a matter of eliminating other causes. Have you called Technical Support yet? Tuning up won't help a bad tube, perhaps he has a power meter to test it. If on warranty it would be the deposit on the old tube and on the alignment tool loan, and with the detailed instructions and help by phone it's an hour, maybe two. Last time I checked my 45 watt had dropped from $2,300 to about $1,100, no idea what a 60W is but probably more.

[rich shepard]

I just replaced my 35 watt tube, was quoted around $1050 6 months a go. Last Wednesday it was $1595 but hey now has a two year warranty.
Also just heard the other day that Epilog is making their own tubes now but keeping it quite for now. Heard this second hand from a guy that was at the factory not long ago picking up a new machine.
As for the install and alignment took about a hour or so, was my first one. Also had to replace a x axis servo that eat a bearing.
Now works and cuts better then when it was new.
rich