View Poll Results: How is your shop wired?

Voters
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  • Wires are completely hidden

    84 45.90%
  • Wires are exposed but not in a conduit

    18 9.84%
  • All wires are in conduit

    44 24.04%
  • Combination of the top three choices

    31 16.94%
  • Have not completed my wiring installation

    11 6.01%
  • I have few plugs and use extension cords for most everything

    8 4.37%
Multiple Choice Poll.
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Thread: How is your shop wiring set up?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southern Md
    Posts
    1,138

    How is your shop wiring set up?

    With the insulation and sheet rock up its time to figure out how I'll wire the shop. I'm leaning towards conduit of some type and the single white, black, and ground wiring spools vs Nomex. I'm only going to have one 15 amp for the lights only (with a back up light in case the power goes out during a cut) the rest will be 20 amp for 120 volt circuits.

    I'm still wrestling with the delta planer and the 612 wood master planer/molder and my window heat/ac unit. They alone will draw 55 amps. I have a 100 amp sub panel in the shop. My box is getting small real quick!!!!!
    Last edited by David Nelson1; 08-18-2010 at 9:22 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Lacey, Washington
    Posts
    412
    Some #1 but mostly #3. All 20 amp. Dick B.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Commerce Township, MI
    Posts
    702
    All my wiring is in surface mounted conduit. It makes it easy to change around if I ever need too. mine is all 20 amp.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
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    22,513
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    I went with wires exposed BUT, as per code where I live the wires are exposed above the top plate only and surface stapled. To drop to the outlet they go through holes in the top plate and are stapled along the stud on the way down. Staples at least every 4 feet required, IIRC. In my case the drops are also between walls but this is not required in the garage. Code does not allow surface mounting without conduit below the plate. If you have no wallboard on the inside wall the wires are still run between studs and stapled. The boxes mount as if there were wallboard.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 08-18-2010 at 8:59 AM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southern Md
    Posts
    1,138
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I went with wires exposed BUT, as per code where I live the wires are exposed above the top plate only and surface stapled. To drop to the outlet they go through holes in the top plate and are stapled along the stud on the way down. Staples at least every 4 feet required, IIRC. In my case the drops are also between walls but this is not required in the garage. Code does not allow surface mounting without conduit below the plate. If you have no wallboard on the inside wall the wires are still run between studs and stapled. The boxes mount as if there were wallboard.
    Glen, I have to agree with you 100%, pretty close to the same here in MD. So if I have to use conduit anyway may as well go 100% with it. Just have no idea of the extra cost of conduit, elbow, and other small hardware

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Middle Earth MD
    Posts
    682
    Main wiring is hidden with several conduit "pedestal" outlets and dust collector switch poking up through the floor. Occasionally use extension cords for the roll around gear.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bellingham, Washington
    Posts
    1,149
    Used a lot of prestrung conduit (armored cable). Not much more than nonmetallic sheathed and you don't have to go through the process of threading wires through the conduit. I used this because of a mouse problem in the old walls. I have two 30 amp/240 volt circuits, one 20 amp/240 volt circuit and 8 20 amp/120 volt circuits.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Southern Md
    Posts
    1,138
    Quote Originally Posted by David Helm View Post
    Used a lot of prestrung conduit (armored cable). Not much more than nonmetallic sheathed and you don't have to go through the process of threading wires through the conduit. I used this because of a mouse problem in the old walls. I have two 30 amp/240 volt circuits, one 20 amp/240 volt circuit and 8 20 amp/120 volt circuits.
    Hey Dave can you find a pic or better yet an example from a supplier via internet so I can get a bette ridea of what what your talking about. I think I already know but just wanna make sure.

  9. #9
    Local code allowed exposed wiring if over 8' above finished floor level, so I make all the runs at ceiling level (10') in PVC conduit clamps that have 1/4 cut off the top end. Drops are in conduit.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    West of Ft. Worth, TX
    Posts
    5,815
    My wires are hidden, but loose in the attic and walls. No conduit. Don't think that will help you though. Jim.
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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Carol Stream Illinois
    Posts
    593
    I have a 100 AMP sub panel, three (220 20 amp circuits) and four (110 20 amp circuits), all in conduit. The shop lights are from the house power so I will not be in the dark if the shop has a problem. I work alone so only two 220 machines will run at the same time, plenty of power here.

    Heather
    Last edited by Heather Thompson; 08-18-2010 at 2:20 PM.
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Rochester Hlls, Mi.
    Posts
    145
    I have a shop in the corner of a basement. Plugs on cement walls and the front of a permanent workbench are through conduit. Plugs on the back side of a finished wall are installed as if wallboarded but the walls are not covered as I want access since I seem to add/change plugs way too frequently. I have a 60 amp subpanel with one 20 amp 220v circuit, two 20 amp 110v circuits, and my lights are on a separate 15 amp circuit.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,740
    Swap the subpanel out for a full panel. You can buy one as big as you want it and go to town.

    Everything is in the walls so planning is key. I would throw a few more 220 plugs in so I have a bit more flexibility with the tools.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,278
    My basement shop wiring is in conduit, attached to the poured concrete walls.

    I only have two circuits, a 15 ampere 240 volt circuit for the cyclone and a 15 ampere 120/240 volt circuit for all the 120 and 240 v receptacles.

    The split circuit receptacles are in 4" square boxes with a duplex 15A 120V receptacle and a duplex 15A 240V receptacle. I only run one machine at a time so I'm fine for capacity.

    The shop lighting is on separate circuit, and it includes an emergency lighting fixture.

    regards, Rod.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bellingham, Washington
    Posts
    1,149
    Quote Originally Posted by David Nelson1 View Post
    Hey Dave can you find a pic or better yet an example from a supplier via internet so I can get a bette ridea of what what your talking about. I think I already know but just wanna make sure.
    001.jpg

    This is the only exposed wire of the type I suggested. I used it all. Don't have a website to send you to but I got the stuff at HD and it was only slightly higher than equivalent sized Romex.

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