Seeking Block Plane Advise

[Dan Andrews]

I have been spoiled by the smooth easy adjustment of my Stanley #5 plane. Now my old Stanley Handyman block plane just won't cut it anymore (pun intended).

I want a small (6 to 7 inch) block plane with lateral adjustment. I don't know if I want an adjustable mouth opening or not, because I wouldn't know what it should be adjusted to. I am willing to learn to adjust the mouth opening if it is realy adventageous to do so. If the mouth adjustment is just something to go wrong, and is not an important feature then I would prefer a fixed sole.

The two planes I am consideing are Stanley 9 1/4 and 9 1/2. (vintage)
Which way sould I go. Are there other models I should consider?

[Prashun Patel]

I vote for a 60 1/2. It's a low angle (which I find more versatile than a higher angle style. It also has an adjustable mouth. Adjusting the mouth is quite intuitive: The deeper you set the blade depth, the more you open the mouth. There's no real science about it; if you have the mouth open a little too much, you just might get a little more tearout. If you have it closed too tight, you won't be able to take a slice.


If you prefer a non-adjustable, look at the Veritas Apron plane. It's smaller, and is low angle, but has a fixed mouth.

I have both a 60 1/2 (clone) and the Veritas.

[Jim R Edwards]

My favorite is the LN 60 1/2R. It doesnt have an adjustable mouth but I believe it is one of the most versital block planes made.

[George Sanders]

Another vote for the 60 1/2. It has become my favorite block plane because of what it can easily do.

[Mark Berenbrok]

I prefer the Stanley #18 over the 9 1/2. The funky lever cap makes it easier to hold and perform better.

[Adam Cherubini]

Since you asked, I can't recommend block planes of any sort. I really don't think they serve an essential function*. I suspect they were developed not becuse they worked well but because they could be fit in a carpenter's nail pouch. If you are a carpenter and wear a nail pouch, go for a new LV or LN. Otherwise, get a proper plane for smoothing wood (like a #4).

* modern woodworkers seem to be sold on these planes low angle feature. I have some problems with this. First, not all block planes are low angle. Second, low angle bevel up block planes are often only marginally lower than a bevel up plane. Also note that any plane can be skewed to effectively reduce it's bevel angle. Last time I did this math I got about a 5 degree decrement in bed angle. Lastly, I don't find a lower angle blade to be significantly advantageous on the wood I work. Guys tout block planes' end grain performance. I find a sharp plane is the best tool for end grain. In my shop that's typically my smoother so that's what I use.

If you love your block plane, please don't let me convince you it sucks. Stick with it and enjoy it. But if you don't have one or are looking to upgrade, I think you'd be better off putting your money into a different plane.

Adam

[John Coloccia]

Why not look at the Veritas block plane. It has an adjustable mouth and lateral adjustment, it's it's ready to go out of the box.

[scott spencer]

Dan - I've got a 9-1/2 and a 60-1/2 and like them both. With sharp blades and good setup both are capable of the task at hand.

[george wilson]

Since I make mostly small things and guitars,the block plane is the plane I use the most. When I was making harpsichords,I used longer planes as well.

[Jim Koepke]

This is one of those areas where there isn't a correct answer.

There is even one reply that eschews the block plane all together. His practice of skewing the angle of cut will also lower the effective angle of cut with a low angle block plane.

Until recently I had sworn off the standard angle block planes. The purchase of a #102 changed that.

Of course, the old Stanley #102 is "tap" adjusted. For a block plane with a lateral adjustment lever, the standard angles are the vintage models with this feature. There is a later Stanley #60 style model that comes with a lateral adjustment set up. That how ever is not the best low angle block plane on the market.

My opinion, and only my opinion, is the function of most of the standard angle block planes is pretty much the same as the smaller bench planes. Of course if one does not already have the smaller bench planes, block planes will likely be less costly.

Also, just because another plane can do the same thing, sometimes a different model is just more comfortable to use. In theory they are all doing the same thing, shaving wood.

I find no problem with adjusting the lateral on a low angle block plane by use of my fingers. Someone else will have to tell us how well the adjustment screws on the Veritas block planes work at lateral adjustment.

Lateral adjustment is something that usually only needs doing once after the blade is sharpened and then is the same until next time the blade is taken out of the plane.

I do like my LN #60 block plane. I also like my #65 and #65-1/2 low angle block planes.

For shooting end grain I bought an LN #62. Before that a #5 or #6 was used. In my case a shoulder injury makes the lower angle of the #62 easier to use.

Here is another thread on block planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...05#post1246005

Notice the bed area behind the mouth. The smaller bed area was introduced by Stanley in about 1952. In my opinion, the larger blade bedding area is much better.

So, with all this rambling, no answer has been offered, but hopefully you have something to help you think about the situation.

I do not know the area you live in (haven't googled it yet) but if the opportunity occurs where you can attend a tool event or other wood show to try using some of the tools, it would be to your advantage.

jim

[Dan Andrews]

Thanks a lot for the suggestions and education. I have a Millers Falls low angle block plane, but I thought they were for end grain only. LN and Veritas are probably out due to price. I will look for older (pre-1952) Stanleys. I would definately consider an 18 that Mark recommends. I have read that the knuckle leaver cap is quick, secure and comfortable to use. No one has given strong argument for the adjustable mouth. I think I will lean towards the fixed sole. I'll have to check Patrick's Blood and Gore site to see the specs on the 18.

One reason I want a block plane at all is because that is what I find myself grabbing for a quick swipe at a piece of wood that is already part of a piece of furniture. Rather than clamping the furniture down so I can use both hands on my bench plane I grab my block plane so I can hold the furiture steady with one hand and plane with the other.

Jim- I am in Northern New York, not far from Kingston Ontario Canada.
I am going to the thread you provided to read more about block planes.

Again, thanks very much to all for your input.

[Jim Koepke]

One thing to consider about block planes is the fit in the hand. That may be one reason there are so many different models.

Kind of funny though the #102 is smaller than the #60 type yet the #102 seems to snuggle well in my hand and the #60 seems a little loose. It is all in the way the cap fits into the hand.

This is a G12-060 Stanley low angle block plane that I bought back in the 1980s or '90s. It does not seem to show up currently on the Stanley web site.

100_2743.jpg

It has a lateral adjusting plate/lever that has sometimes been removed from the plane. This is now one of my back up planes for rough work since I purchased an LN #60.

Here it is shown where a low angle block plane excels, trimming proud dovetails flush.

100_2742.jpg

On the top, a regular bench plane could be put in service though it is a bit rougher than the low angle plane because of the angle the blade is hitting the edges of the "standing tall" wood.

On the vertical surface, a bench plane would be a bit harder to control. A block plane is a natural for one handed control. For the cabinet shown, turning it on end would make it difficult to use a plane unless I stood on a ladder. As it is, I do have a foot inside the cabinet to hold it down while planing.

Of course, if one wants to keep their tool ownership to a minimum then finding a good bench plane for this job is doable.

My way is to have a few lesser tools around to do the rough work like trimming dovetails. This used to be my good #60 type. Now it and another older model wait in a drawer for those "tough" jobs.

Likewise, my better chisels hardly ever remove glue.

jim

[Jonathan McCullough]

Likewise, my better chisels hardly ever remove glue.
jim

Ha! Had to laugh at that one.

But plenty of good observations. Having restored a lot of planes and having bought and used some of the newer planes, here's my advice. Money spent on good planes is never wasted, and the best plane is the one that suits your needs. The problem is how to find that one best plane economically.

Adam's advice is intriguing, but I think the reason block planes are popular and have been for 120 or so years, is that they're good "hangin' around" planes. They're inconspicuous on a bench or in an apron pocket or some other handy place until they're needed. Then you can shoot an edge, trim a dovetail, ease a corner, trim a drawbore or dowel flush, smooth something, or hell, even chip some paint away down to a consistently smooth patch of wood.

I think the ideal block plane is small, something that fits in one hand without any danger of dropping it, something you'd reach for without thinking about it, something that's never awkward or unwieldy in use. For blade control you should be able to "set it and forget it," or be able to adjust it precisely without too much fiddling. To my mind, the ideal would be something more like this for "set it and forget it":

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...65&cat=1,41182

And don't laugh. I'll bet if you had that little plane around you'd get more than your money's worth out of that little dingy than all of the majestic ships o' the line rusting away in your plane till.

Or if you want to set it but be able to adjust it just a hair, Jim's good advice on the LN 102 or 103, or maybe the Veritas apron plane might be just the ticket. I have a 65 1/2 that's little and fits the bill, as well as a inexpensive flea market find that's like the Little Victor but a bit bigger and just seems to turn up everywhere when I need to ease a corner or what have you.

[Dan Andrews]

After reading all the good advise and info. given, and considering that I have a good low angle block plane and that I wanted something close to the set it and forget it kind of plane Jim is talking about... I bought a Stanley 9-1/4. Just under $20. with shipping on ebay. The iron is realy good, as is the rest of it except that the bottom is worn unevenly to the tune of about .008" in one front corner. I doubt this will cause much grief for the kind of what I use a block plane for. I suppose I can lap the bottom and get it flatter if I find a need to. I sharpened it and tried it out just a little. Very nice to adjust and I expect it will work out well for me. Thanks all.