Sharping lathe tools

[Irven Self]

Hello everyone I'm new to SawMill Creek. I'm a beginner turner and here's my question.
I just bought a Delta varible speed grinder and a Wolverine system.
At what speed do I need sharping the tools?
And what wheel color to use.
Thank You

[Bernie Weishapl]

Irven I use the slow speed when sharpening tools. I prefer the Norton 3X 80 grit and 46 grit wheels. They seem to run the coolest and do the best job IMHO. At this time I use my slow speed grinder to shape my tools and do the final sharpening on a Tormek.

[Roger Chandler]

Hello everyone I'm new to SawMill Creek. I'm a beginner turner and here's my question.
I just bought a Delta varible speed grinder and a Wolverine system.
At what speed do I need sharping the tools?
And what wheel color to use.
Thank You

Irven,

The low speed {1750 rpm] is best for most tools, as higher speeds on the stock wheels will likely blue you tool edges [take the temper out of the steel] and make you have to sharpen 2 or 3 times more than you would if you used the slower speed and did not blue the edges.

You can also use a water dip to help cool down the grinding edge of your tools, but the slower speed is usually better. I also have the same grinder as you, and when the white wheel began to wear down significantly, then I got the blue Norton 3X wheels for it, and they are great.

Hope this helps!

[bob svoboda]

Hi Irven. Welcome to the Creek. You will probably get lots of different responses to this question, but here's what I do. I use the Wolverine system on a slow speed grinder (1750 RPM). and the blue wheels (80 and 120 grit). I hone my skew chisels and spindle gouges, but use my bowl gouges straight off the grinder. I'm guessing most people just find a starting point and find the best way for them with experience. Good Luck!

[Patrick Doody]

Hello Irven, I also have a delta variable speed grinder (8") and a wolverine system, I sharpen my tools on the slowest setting and I use the standard white wheel that came with my grinder. works great. good luck!

[Irven Self]

Thanks for all you imputs for this beginner.
Today I built a cabinet stand for it.
and mounted the Woverine system.
I hope to turn Christmas ornaments for this year.
Thank all of you!!!!

[Joe Scarfo]

Irven,

When it comes to sharpening... nothing beats a few minutes of demonstration or watching a video?

What are you sharpening? Skews? Bowl Gouges? Fingernail or non standard grind Bowl Gouges?

Do you have all the wolverine attachments to do these?

Where do you live? Maybe one of us could swing by or you could stop by one of our shops to watch a quick demo?

Thanks and Good Luck
Joe

[John Keeton]

Irven, you have received good advice, and I will just add - Welcome to the Creek!!

[Irven Self]

I don't have all the attachments yet but I'LL save for them.
All the replys have been helpfull.
Thanks for the offer to come over. I live in Kansas City
When I read a post with pictures thats one of the best ways to understand things.
Thanks again to all.

[Keith Burns]

There is a great AAW Club located in Merriam. The kcwoodturners.org. Give them a visit and I guarantee a good learning time.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Irven - Welcome to the Creek!

Just to add my 2 cents - I use a slow speed grinder and 120 & 150 grit wheels for sharpening.

I agree with Keith - get with your local AAW turning club and they will show you what works and what you could actually use - BEFORE - you spend any more money!

Looking forward to seeing some of your turnings!

[Don Geiger]

Hi Roger:
Your advise about the bluing of steel and water cooling tools is absolutely correct in the case of carbon steel. But in the case of High Speed Steel (HSS) bluing of the metal is not an indication of having ruined the temper. HSS does not lose its temper until it reaches about 1100 degrees F and the highest temperature one will most likely reach, even when changing the shape of HSS, is about 750. Also it is not advisable to dunk HSS into water to cool it. This can cause the fine edges to fracture.

You can safely sharpen HSS tools on a 3600 or 1800 RPM grinder. I always recommend a slow speed because it will take off less material and if one makes a mistake it is 1/2 as bad.

I hope you don't mind the clarification.


Don Geiger

Irven,

The low speed {1750 rpm] is best for most tools, as higher speeds on the stock wheels will likely blue you tool edges [take the temper out of the steel] and make you have to sharpen 2 or 3 times more than you would if you used the slower speed and did not blue the edges.

You can also use a water dip to help cool down the grinding edge of your tools, but the slower speed is usually better. I also have the same grinder as you, and when the white wheel began to wear down significantly, then I got the blue Norton 3X wheels for it, and they are great.

Hope this helps!

[Roger Chandler]

Hi Roger:
Your advise about the bluing of steel and water cooling tools is absolutely correct in the case of carbon steel. But in the case of High Speed Steel (HSS) bluing of the metal is not an indication of having ruined the temper. HSS does not lose its temper until it reaches about 1100 degrees F and the highest temperature one will most likely reach, even when changing the shape of HSS, is about 750. Also it is not advisable to dunk HSS into water to cool it. This can cause the fine edges to fracture.

You can safely sharpen HSS tools on a 3600 or 1800 RPM grinder. I always recommend a slow speed because it will take off less material and if one makes a mistake it is 1/2 as bad.

I hope you don't mind the clarification.


Don Geiger

Don,

Thank you sir, a good point about HHS. I knew the info as well, but for the sake of the newbie, I thought it best just to keep it simple for him. I think we both agree that overall the slower speed is best at least to make your gouges, etc, last longer.

The cooling in water is for HHS is something I did not know......certainly do not want to fracture the edge. I guess I got that one from some years ago, and the info must have been for carbon steel, but I did not remember that part of it.

Don, You can clarify my post anytime!

[Don Geiger]

You are welcome. If I am completely changing the grind on a HSS tool, such as changing a bowl gouge from a traditional grind to a side-grind, I'll dunk it in water to speed the process up and to prevent burning myself. When I get near the end result, I stop dunking it, and let it air cool or place it against a lathe bed or something with a lot of mass that will act as a heat sink.

When I am turning and then sharpen a gouge, if it happens to get hot (which is rare), I'll grab a handful of shavings and hold them tightly around the tip of the tool. The moist shavings will dissipate the heat enough for me to get back to turning more quickly. It's not as rapid as dunking, but it won't fracture the edge.

Don Geiger

Don,

Thank you sir, a good point about HHS. I knew the info as well, but for the sake of the newbie, I thought it best just to keep it simple for him. I think we both agree that overall the slower speed is best at least to make your gouges, etc, last longer.

The cooling in water is for HHS is something I did not know......certainly do not want to fracture the edge. I guess I got that one from some years ago, and the info must have been for carbon steel, but I did not remember that part of it.

Don, You can clarify my post anytime!

[David DeCristoforo]

Slow speed grinding, as has been mentioned several times now, is preferable more often than not. But the truth is it does not really matter. What does matter is that you take your time and remove material slowly using a light pressure on the wheel, cooling the tool often as you work. My "rule of thumb" is if it gets too hot to comfortably hold, its time to cool it off. I also find that my tools cut cleaner and the edges last longer if I hone them after grinding. Along with a wheel grinder, I also have a "power water stone" that I use for honing.