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Thread: lock miter bit

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
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    1,614

    lock miter bit

    any advice on setting up and running lock miter bit?

    Thanks.

    Brian

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    New Haven County, CT
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    261
    Whiteside has a great"how to" with their bit on their website: http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/L...structions.pdf

    It should work about the same for any other brand bit

    The best advice Ive seen to set it up is to run 2 separate panels both in horizontal mode. Flip one of the boards over and then mate it up with the joint of the other board. When properly setup, the two boards will join perfectly flush.

    Another tip is to "burnish" the joint with the shaft of a screwdriver. The bit will create really sharp miters, which may or may not be what you are looking for. I actually purposely set mine up "wrong" when making a post sleeve with PVC trimboard. The trimboard edges were slightly rounded, so I was able to keep the "roundness" of the edge and prevent a sharp corner that would actually cut your fingers.
    Last edited by Chris Harry; 09-04-2010 at 8:36 AM.
    The worst part about mistakes is that you have to make them before you can learn from them.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    288
    Brian,
    I have an article my friend produced, but it is too large to upload here. I'll try to send it via your e-mail.
    John
    Last edited by John M. Cioffi; 09-04-2010 at 9:52 AM.
    NOTHING beats a failure,but a try.
    -------------------------------------------
    Have a Blessed Day,

    JMC

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
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    Thanks

    Thanks, much appreciated.

    Brian

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Little Rock, AR.
    Posts
    642
    Nice set up tips Chris. I've been trying to learn how to use mine. The flat cut's come out great, the fence cuts I get a lot of end grain breakout.
    Right or wrong I've started working the bit in taking multiple light passes until I get all the way against the fence. But my set up is a bit home made, so I have a fence that is only just a bit taller than the cutter and a jig that rides on top, so it's pretty easy and safe to take as many passes as I need to get to full depth. I still get some break out, but not so often now.
    The opinion of 10,000 men is of no value if none of them know anything about the subject.
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  6. #6
    I ran through the setup on my lock mitered drawer tutorial

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Trussville, AL
    Posts
    3,589
    The setup on woodshopdemos that uses the playing cards looks like a winner. That's what I'm about to try. I even found the height gauge he uses for cheap on Amazon. If you don't have a way to make micro adjustments on your router height and router table fence, I'd pick a different joint. Trying to get the correct settings with my Hitachi (turn the router motor in the base to adjust height) router was driving me to drink. I bought the Freud combo table, fence, and router from Woodcraft and it's got the precision I was lacking...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Trussville, AL
    Posts
    3,589
    Quote Originally Posted by David Epperson View Post
    Nice set up tips Chris. I've been trying to learn how to use mine. The flat cut's come out great, the fence cuts I get a lot of end grain breakout.
    I was getting excessive tear out too. I'm thinking my Woodcraft store brand lock miter bit (and my endless tinkering cut after cut trying to get it set correctly) may be a big part of that problem. I bought a new Freud Quadra bit (four cutting surfaces instead of two) and I'm hoping that will help. Of course I have to re-work all my settings for the new bit...

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