Shed door design query - thickness

[Dan Duperron]

Yo Creek,

This isn't exactly a project that you'll see in FWW, but I have a shed I built a few years ago (like 8 !) and still haven't got the doors on it. We've been using it, but I'm tired of replacing the tires on my lawn tractor. The UV in the late afternoon & evening sun seems to rot them very quickly. Besides, LOML REALLY wants me to finish the project and I want it off my list.

There is one large opening 56"W x 78"H which will have a pair of doors, and a smaller 35"W x 78"H for a single door. My plan for the doors is plywood with 1 x 4 bracing on the outside - either 'Z' bracing or bracing all around the door plus one diagonal.

I have one sheet of 3/4" pressure treated ply hanging around from when I built the shed. It sure is heavy stuff. I know there is no need for PT in a door, but I like to use what's around when it makes sense. Obviously I need to buy some more ply as that sheet would only do a single door if I use it.

Here are the questions:

1) Is 3/4" overkill? I'm worried that 1/2" will twist despite the bracing, but that may be a silly concern. 1/2" would be a lot lighter and cheaper.

2) I'm going to paint the doors. Is PT ply even going to take paint if I use it?

3) Comments/suggestions on bracing to avoid the doors twisting like a potato chip when the weather changes?

4) Outside of the doors will be painted with exterior latex paint. Do I need to paint the inside of the doors to equalize permeability to moisture and reduce tendency to twist?

5) Am I over thinking this just a little bit or way, way, way too much?

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Yes to painting the inside--
I would use 3/4 but it dortif depends on how you frame around the doors. If 1/2 I would use 1 x 4 around the outside with two diagonals of the same..

[Jim Andrew]

I like BB form ply for doors. It is strong, and about as stable as any plywood. Don't know about the latex paint, probably would use oil. And I'd oil it on the edges and back too. The stuff is made for form oil, and holds up to wet concrete for multiple pours. Last time I priced it, wasn't much more than interior grade ply.

[Clint Olver]

I used an OSB type siding that was less than 1/2" thick for the siding and the doors. The doors are reinforce with 1"x4" attached with 15g brads and construction adhesive. You'll see in the first pic that there is a bolt latch at the bottom of the double doors and a stop block at the top; this really helps to keep the doors secure when closed.

C

[Chris Friesen]

I used the OSB siding of my shed for the doors, but to minimize any warping problems I went with a layer of siding on each side of an internal 1x3 frame, with an external 1x3 frame for decoration. The doors are essentially torsion boxes--very stiff, very flat.

[Jeff Monson]

I used 1/2" plywood painted on both sides, 1x4 on the sides, tops and bottoms, has been holding up well for several years now.

[Rick Potter]

Been there, done that.

Made several types of shed doors, and they all want to warp. If I ever do another shed I will use the cheap prehung steel clad house doors from HD, and just frame it like a house. Buy two 36's and you have a 6' door with a little modification.

I already did it on two new sheds....work great.

Rick Potter