Fein Multimaster Question

[Doug Shepard]

I need to do some surgery on some overhead cabinets to provide more clearance height for a newer refrigerator and picked up a Fein Multimaster the other day. I've got a fairly clear plan on how I need to do the remodel but after reading through the Fein manual and DVD I'm not real clear on which blade attachment I should be using to cut into the cabinets and shelf. What sort of considerations do you use to decide whether to use one of the E-cut type blades with the step in the blade vs. the flat round HSS type blade. Also, does anyone know what the difference is is between the standard E-cut blades vs the precision E-cut blades? Is that just a finer TPI for the precision blades on the cutting edge?

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I have the same tool. However I would use the table saw to modify the cabinet. The Fien tool is used free hand and I doubt that you would get the results that you are looking for.

Greg

[Curt Harms]

Doug, I have something similar going on right now, cutting about 1/2" off some baseboards to create a larger gap between the subfloor and baseboard. If you can come up with a ledge to rest the blade on, you can get surprisingly straight clean cuts. In my case, i planed a piece of poplar the same thickness as the desired gap minus the blade kerf (not much). Lay the poplar guide on the floor and against the baseboard, keep the tool level and plunge. If I understand what you're wanting to do, you might have to put the guide above the desired cut line. It does seem easier to let gravity assist in keeping the blade firmly on the guide. As far as blade I can't help you there. I bought what non-Fein blade was available locally, probably 18 teeth/inch.

[Mike Reinholtz]

Less than a month ago I did the same thing to make room for a larger refrigerator, but rather than using the multimaster I used a track saw. Cut was splinter free and very straight. Unfortunately, you either need to come up with a way to use a straight edge, or have an extremely steady hand to get a perfectly straight cut like what you are looking for.

As for your question about the E-cut blades, I can't help you there. I don't use the Fein blades because they are way too expensive. I found a cheaper brand that fits perfectly and lasts just as long with more variety.

[Will Overton]

I'm guessing you want to do this with the cabinet in place. A segmented blade would be my choice. You'll be able to get a straighter edge and avoid cutting into cabinets on either side.

[Jerome Hanby]

I had a similar potential project. Our fridge was just too large for the opening in the new house. We decided to just use the old fridge, but my best plan for enlarging the opening was to meticulously make sure there were no nails present, clamp on a straight edge and use a pattern bit with my Bosch Colt.

I've used the HF version of the Fein tool for a god-awful set of water damage repairs in my parents home and it totally rocks for that kind of work, but I can't imagine cutting a truly straight line with it, much less having a clean cut...

[Steve Leverich]

Mike, you are a tease - "I don't use the Fein blades because they are way too expensive. I found a cheaper brand that fits perfectly and lasts just as long with more variety."

C'mon, share the "where" ... Steve

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've found that the straight plung type blades in both my Dremel and HF tools flex quite a bit. I doubt if they could track a nice straight line in anything.
Both mine have a tendancy to burn the wood also.

The Fein might be a lot better in both regards - I can't say since I don't have one, but, for the price it should do a lot better job I'd think.

[Mike Goetzke]

I did this mod years ago. I used a jig saw and a guide. I now own a Fein (& HF for nasty jobs) and don't think you would like the results with it.

(but - if you justified the Fien for this job use a circ saw or jigsaw with a guide and use the Fein to trim the cut to the very edges)

Mike

[Doug Shepard]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I'm guessing you want to do this with the cabinet in place. A segmented blade would be my choice. You'll be able to get a straighter edge and avoid cutting into cabinets on either side.

Most definitely want to do this in place. Still not entirely clear on what the stepped vs the flat (and segmented) blades accomplish that the other doesn't but I'll try the segmented one.

Curt's wooden guide idea sounds like it might help out.

Didn't really plan on this being a thread about the actual remodel but here's the details and my plan of attack.
The cupboard cabinet is as old old as the house (~55 years) and built of solid pine shelves, back, ends, etc. then about 30 years ago the doors were redone and faced with a wood grain plastic laminate as well as replacing the face frame from the same material.
The unit is 4 doors wide but only the 2 on the RH end are over the opening where the fridge goes and the face frame under those 2 had already been notched out eons ago for a taller fridge clearance (they just keep growing taller over the decades). The bottom of the face frame over the fridge is currently 66-3/4 and I need to increase that to around 70" to fit most any brand/model I end up with - so roughly 3-1/4" higher without changing anything on the LH 2 doors/cupboards.
The bottom shelf currently runs the full length but that wont be possible with that much height raising.

So here's the plan:
- Cut a spacer panel to insert in the middle and attach between the bottom and 2nd shelf with pocket screws.
- Cut the bottom shelf out on the RH end over the fridge area. Whether I can cut this cleanly enough to reuse it remains to be seen but if necessary I'll replace it. No way to get a circular or jig saw that close to the back wall or far right end which is why I picked up the Fein.
- Cut the bottom of the face frame off on the RH end. Was planning on using a flat Shark saw to do this as the kerf would be minimal and I could add a thin shim if necessary to get back to the right length.
- Add pocket holes in the cutout (or replacement) RH bottom shelf to reattach it higher up between the added spacer panel in the middle and the far right end panel. Also add pocket holes for attaching to the back panel and the face frame.
- Reattach the cutoff faceframe
- The doors are bevel cut on all 4 sides, and I'd cut the bottom of those 2 RH doors using the TS

It's going to make for a pretty short height bottom shelf on those 2 RH cupboards but...
I'll post some before/after pics once this gets underway.

[Will Overton]

I'm not sure what you mean by stepped. If you mean the ones where the cutting edge is offset, that allows you to flush cut without the head of the bolt that fastens the blade getting in the way. I use them when cutting the ends of dowels or plugs flush with the board.

The flat edge of a segmented blade allows you to cut up to a wall or adjacent cabinet without cutting into them.

[joe milana]

As mentioned earlier, the key is to use a straight piece of wood clamped in place as a guide. A little down pressure against the guide and you will be surprised at how straight it will cut. Use a sawing motion and not too much forward pressure. I have two Fein supercuts and have gone through countless blades. I only buy the bi-metal blades at this point because I can't tell a difference in cut quality compared to the "precision" blades, and they last longer. Particularly in remodeling situations where hitting a nail is possible.
By the way, I have done something similar to what you are describing and used a biscuit joiner to make the cuts. Used a block of wood as a guide, plunged, and slid the joiner down the guide. Ended up with a table saw quality cut!

[Will Overton]

By the way, I have done something similar to what you are describing and used a biscuit joiner to make the cuts. Used a block of wood as a guide, plunged, and slid the joiner down the guide.

Now that's clever! I now have a reason for not getting rid of all my biscuit joiners.

[Mike Reinholtz]

Mike, you are a tease - "I don't use the Fein blades because they are way too expensive. I found a cheaper brand that fits perfectly and lasts just as long with more variety."

C'mon, share the "where" ... Steve

Sorry for not supplying details, here goes- There is a hardware store close to me that started carrying an entire new product line from "exchange-a-blade". They have everything from saw blades to hole saws (none of which I have used, so I can't comment on quality for anything else) but what I do like are the blades and attachments for the multimaster. Their blades all have the same mounting style, which mate to an adapter that mates to either the dremel, bosch, fein, or other models. I think the adapter cost around $9. It's a wierd program that I didn't really believe at first, but when you wear out a blade you return it with no receipt needed and buy another at a cheaper price. For example, I have a 7/8" flush cut blade that costs $9.99, when you wear it out and get a new one just bring the old one and only pay 6.99. All you have to do is bring the bad one back with you. Couldn't be easier. I thought it was too good to be true, but so far I've had great luck with them. I also expected the blades to be of poor quality but so far I've been rather impressed with everything I've tried out. Sorry if that's hard to follow, happy to clear up an questions.

What was even better, was the variety of sanding pads and paper they offer. The Fein sanding pads I think were around $35 each, but through this company they are like $10.

I have a few still in packages if anyone is having trouble finding them and is interested or could use some pics.

[Doug Shepard]

FYI - the place where I bought my Fein http://performancetoolcenter.com/
has some sort of resharpening service on the Fein blades for $5 each.