Has anyone cut Paperstone here?

[Craig D Peltier]

It says you can cut it with woodworking tools. Client wants it for a vanity counter.
I did read that it can burn when cutting, im not sure of that just sands out if it were to burn.
So if anyone has im looking for there input.

Rip blade or 80 tooth? Does it sand and rout well? Is it very heavy ( says 25x96)? How to secure it to wood top, do regualr screws work?

Thanks

[Gene Howe]

From http://www.paperstoneproducts.com/in...installing.php

Emphasis mine.

"As with any quality countertop installation, a high level of precision is required during both the templating and installation processes. However, PaperStone® lessens the load because it is easily worked using traditional high-quality carbide-tipped woodworking tools. No special fabrication equipment is necessary as is the case with quartz or granite. And a wide variety of edge profiles can be achieved with a router. This may result in savings during the installation process as compared to the cost of installing other materials. Because of PaperStone’s rigidity and strength-of-span, it can be cantilevered an impressive distance without deflection."

[george wilson]

Phenolic stinks like the devil when you cut it. Hard on tools too.I know carbide will cut it,but I'd hate to use my good blades on it.

[John Bush]

Hi Craig,
We used paperstone for our master bath remodel and it was a great stuff to work with. We used 1" for the counter tops and 1/2" for the backsplash. Sheets are 4' x 12', IIRC, and they cut them in half for us. The backplash stock is 6" x 12', IIRC. I did cross cuts using a guide and a skill saw and did the rips on my TS. We made a template for the sink cutouts, roughed out with a jigsaw, and did final shaping with a router(undermounted sinks). Standard WWing blades and bits. I sanded the saw marks out with 100 to 220 grit and the router cuts only needed final--220--sanding to fnish. I sanded the top surfaces up to 320 wet or dry using the finish oil they sell with the paperstone. We had a powder room vanity made, pre master bath redo, with soapstone and the paperstone is by far a better choice. The soapstone is a PITA. It leaves watermarks that need mineral oil to polish out. We made a seat with a soapstone top in the shower so it gets lots of direct water flow, and the countertops get splashed and we haven't needed to oil them yet. I'm very satisfied with the look and ease of working with the stuff and recommend it. We plan on using it when we redo the kitchen.

We first saw a sample at Crosscut Hardwoods and ultimately got it across the street(1st Av South) at Ecohaus. Same price but Eco had it in stock. I think it costs about the same as other higher end solid surface material but the savings in working it and installing yourself is significant.

We live in Edmonds--let me know if you want to see the stuff in action.

John.

[John Bush]

Hi George,
I'm almost sure phenolic resin isn't used. Their claim to fame is being ecofriendly and it didn't have the "burning electronics aroma" when tooling it. It also didn't seem to tax the machines and blades at all. I have mid level ($$$$) carbide blades and they didn't seem to be affected after cutting the paperstone. John.

[Philip Johnson]

Never heard of this before what is the approximate price of a sheet

Phil

[Paul Murphy]

Hi George,
I'm almost sure phenolic resin isn't used. Their claim to fame is being ecofriendly and it didn't have the "burning electronics aroma" when tooling it. It also didn't seem to tax the machines and blades at all. I have mid level ($$$$) carbide blades and they didn't seem to be affected after cutting the paperstone. John.

http://www.paperstoneproducts.com/in...on-landing.php
"PaperStone® is made from 100% post-consumer recycled paper that has been saturated with our proprietary PetroFree™ phenolic resins and selected natural pigments on our treater lines. After trimming to length, resin-saturated sheets are stacked and moved into a press where they are fused together under heat and pressure. Paper sheet count determines the thickness of the finished panels."

[Callan Campbell]

Hi George,
I'm almost sure phenolic resin isn't used. Their claim to fame is being ecofriendly and it didn't have the "burning electronics aroma" when tooling it. It also didn't seem to tax the machines and blades at all. I have mid level ($$$$) carbide blades and they didn't seem to be affected after cutting the paperstone. John.

Everyone got me curious, so I had to visit the website. Material Info link states "PetroFree phenolic-resin" is at the heart of this stuff. But it may not smell like Bakelite while you're cutting it since they've played with the chemistry. Interesting stuff, I didn't know it existed.
Recycled paper infused with a different phenolic resin to make countertops. Wonder if it gets brittle with age?

[george wilson]

Different phenolic sounds good. I made a steering wheel out of canvas stacked phenolic plastic 1" thick on the wood lathe. I had to resharpen my tool several times,and was glad to have the dust collector hose right near the cutting because of the bad smell and noxious dust.

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi Gene, I knew this already but that doesnt tell you much about how it cuts or burns etc.

From http://www.paperstoneproducts.com/in...installing.php

Emphasis mine.

"As with any quality countertop installation, a high level of precision is required during both the templating and installation processes. However, PaperStone® lessens the load because it is easily worked using traditional high-quality carbide-tipped woodworking tools. No special fabrication equipment is necessary as is the case with quartz or granite. And a wide variety of edge profiles can be achieved with a router. This may result in savings during the installation process as compared to the cost of installing other materials. Because of PaperStone’s rigidity and strength-of-span, it can be cantilevered an impressive distance without deflection."

[Craig D Peltier]

THANKS alot John, that helps.

Hi Craig,
We used paperstone for our master bath remodel and it was a great stuff to work with. We used 1" for the counter tops and 1/2" for the backsplash. Sheets are 4' x 12', IIRC, and they cut them in half for us. The backplash stock is 6" x 12', IIRC. I did cross cuts using a guide and a skill saw and did the rips on my TS. We made a template for the sink cutouts, roughed out with a jigsaw, and did final shaping with a router(undermounted sinks). Standard WWing blades and bits. I sanded the saw marks out with 100 to 220 grit and the router cuts only needed final--220--sanding to fnish. I sanded the top surfaces up to 320 wet or dry using the finish oil they sell with the paperstone. We had a powder room vanity made, pre master bath redo, with soapstone and the paperstone is by far a better choice. The soapstone is a PITA. It leaves watermarks that need mineral oil to polish out. We made a seat with a soapstone top in the shower so it gets lots of direct water flow, and the countertops get splashed and we haven't needed to oil them yet. I'm very satisfied with the look and ease of working with the stuff and recommend it. We plan on using it when we redo the kitchen.

We first saw a sample at Crosscut Hardwoods and ultimately got it across the street(1st Av South) at Ecohaus. Same price but Eco had it in stock. I think it costs about the same as other higher end solid surface material but the savings in working it and installing yourself is significant.

We live in Edmonds--let me know if you want to see the stuff in action.

John.