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Thread: Restoring an old finish

  1. #1

    Restoring an old finish

    My wife and I acquired an old timeclock (1905 or so). The finish is well adhered to the wood but has a crazed appearance in the surface as shown in the picture.

    I do not believe the finish is shellac as it does is not affected by alcohol.

    My question is can this finish be restored while preserving the appearance of age. I am looking to eliminate the crazed appearance without refinishing the clock.

    Thanks in advance for the help.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    Amalgamator

    Mohawk Finishing produces an amalgamator (http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=137) to heal cracked lacquer finishes. I'm guessing the finish is lacquer: use acetone to check. If the acetone dissolves the finish it should be lacquer. As I understand it, over time the plasticizers in lacquer lose their elasticity and the lacquer begins to crack as the finish expands and contracts over the seasons. The amalgamator re-flows the lacquer and infuses new plasticizer into the finish. I haven't used this amalgamator, but Mohawk makes exceptional pro quality products. I highly recommend their products to anyone.

    Jamie

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Before you try an amalgamator; I suggest you try lacquer thinner. Lacquer, like shellac is an evaporative finish, meaning when you introduce the solvent again it will redissolve the finish. Not true with reactive finishes like varnish, conversion varnish or catylized lacquers.

    See this link http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com...hatFinish.html it's an article by a friend of mine that will help you determine the existing finish.
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 09-15-2010 at 12:34 AM.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  4. #4
    Scott,

    You seem to know your finishes, so maybe I'm missing something: If you only use lacquer thinner, you will re-flow the finish, but it will only solve the crazing problem temporarily, correct? To solve the problem long term you will have to replace the plasticizers in the lacquer. Again, this is my understanding, am I wrong?

    Jamie

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Nitrocellulous lacquer is just what is says. I don't know about any plasticizers in lacquer.

    You could flow it out then add another coat of NC lacquer.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  6. #6
    Jamie,
    Nitrocellulose lacquer contains plasticisers, along with various solvents, dilutents and resin. Without the plasticizer it would be very brittle.

    Flowing an old lacquer, if that's what it is, like the one in the picture is good in theory but unquestionably takes a touch. A novice can do more harm in minutes than a restorer can fix in hours. Same goes for using the amalgamater. It's not a fix all, especially if the coatings bond with the substrate is compromised.
    Last edited by Pete McMahon; 09-16-2010 at 10:58 AM.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete McMahon View Post
    Jamie,
    Nitrocellulose lacquer contains plasticisers, along with various solvents, dilutents and resin. Without the plasticizer it would be very brittle.

    Flowing an old lacquer, if that's what it is, like the one in the picture is good in theory but unquestionably takes a touch. A novice can do more harm in minutes than a restorer can fix in hours. Same goes for using the amalgamater. It's not a fix all, especially if the coatings bond with the substrate is compromised.
    Thanks for the response!!

    Well I think that I am a novice. It sounds to me like I need to do a really good cleaning and leave the crazed appearance as "character." Will probably do a good scrubbing with mineral spirts to get any grim off and apply a coat of wax. This finish will not be taking any wear or liquids.

    Does that sound like a reasonable plan?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren E. Johnson View Post
    Thanks for the response!!

    Well I think that I am a novice. It sounds to me like I need to do a really good cleaning and leave the crazed appearance as "character." Will probably do a good scrubbing with mineral spirts to get any grim off and apply a coat of wax. This finish will not be taking any wear or liquids.

    Does that sound like a reasonable plan?
    Warren,

    Yes your plan is OK. The mineral spirits will clean any old wax and grime off. Remember to keep turning over your paper towels as you wipe away the grime so as not to redistribute it.
    There are a variety of ways to brighten old surfaces with wax being the easiest and least aggressive. Use a brown wax, it will look better than a clear wax. You gotta love the KISS method. Besides think of the crazing and wrinkles you'll have at that age.
    BTW, your name is famous in the world of racing.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete McMahon View Post
    Warren,

    BTW, your name is famous in the world of racing.
    I live in Charlotte, NC. I have heard that line before.

    Warren

  10. #10
    Thanks guys! That clears it up for me too!

    Jamie

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Hell, michigan
    Posts
    28
    I'll be tackling an old family relic of the wifes soon. OLD treadle sewing cabinet. Crazed, scratched. dinged and the bad areas got painted over the years. UGH!

    First steps need to be structure. Glues or epoxys I dont care. But I seem to remember reading glue doesn't stick to glue! So I dont think opening the joint a little and squirting tightbond2 in will be good.

    How does one fix a glue joint?

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