Killed my RAS with compressed air!

[Mark Ashmeade]

I decided to change my RAS (RIDGID RS 1000) over to 220V, and while I had the cover off to flip the switch, I blew it out with compressed air. When I put it back together, all was not well. There's a low frequency vibration, and it gets warm quite quickly. When it's up to speed (which takes longer than before), it sounds like a tablesaw with a slack belt, a rhythmic slow vibration. Previously it had been smooth as glass. I tried a cut, and it bogged in 3/4 ply after about 4 inches.

I took both halves of the motor cover off, and tried again to blow it out. I put it back to 110, still the same, proving it wasn't the 220V changeover. Taking it apart again, I dismantled the centrifugal switch, although that didn't seem to be the issue, it does spin up to full speed, though it bogs easily.

The motor seems to be binding a little, I think what's probably happened is one of the bearings has moved ever so slightly off true. I can't imagine how compressed air has done that, but that's the only thing I did of a mechanical nature to it. When I stand in front of the blade, and look dead-on at it, as the motor spins down, I can see the blade flutter. This seems to give evidence to my supposition that a bearing is off.

No parts are available, according to RIDGID.

Anyone know the equivalent Craftsman model to the RS1000? My thoughts are to buy a used one, and rehome the motor. And be very gentle when cleaning it!

[Don Jarvie]

Something tells me when you put it back together everything didn't line up. Can you take the motor off the yoke? If so, it will allow you to line everything up.

The bearings didn't move unless you tried to move them. Most likely the shaft isn't set in the end bells correct so the centrifical switch isn't set right.

Also, before you power it up, 110 or 220, make sure it's wired correctly for either on.

You may need to fool wih it a bit but it will work again.

[Mark Ashmeade]

Thanks for the reply. I'm sure I could take the motor off, but I'm not sure what the idea is? I didn't do anything mechanical to it, just undid a plastic cover, moved a slider switch (there's no wiring to be done), and blew it out. It runs fine, but is a second or two slower to engage the centrifugal switch, and then spins up to full speed, but doesn't have enough power to cut 3/4 ply with a spanking new Freud blade.

I was thinking of trying to get the fan and centrifugal mechanism completely off, but it has about 6 or 7 plastic dogs that engage in a detent in the motor shaft that need to be simultaneously released, and that's foxing me how to do.

[Don Jarvie]

DId you rewire the plug on the saw and the outlet? If its bogging down that may be the culprit. Your only drawing power from 1 leg (110).

If you flip the switch bacl to 110 is it ok?

[Mark Ashmeade]

I did rewire the plug, and used a 220 receptacle. I don't think it would work at all if there was no return path.

Anyway, game has moved on, I followed your earlier suggestion, and have a large box of bits where a RAS motor used to be. I'm trying to get the armature out, and it's nearly there. Either the fixed arbor nut or the fan assy has to come off, and we should be good. At least I will be able to tell if there's any mechanical shenanigans at that point.

[Lee Schierer]

Hmmm a humming noise at start up. Sounds like the rotor is too close to the stator on one side or a piece of debris is caught in the winding and rubbing on the rotor. Alignment of the stator to the rotor is critical in those types of motors.

[Walt Nicholson]

What Don said. If something goes wrong, retrace your steps and check everything that you did. You said you rewired the outlet. Plug another motor that you know works correctly into the outlet and verify that the outlet is not the culprit. Incorrect wiring can make some things run but not how they are supposed to run.

[Mark Ashmeade]

Hmmm a humming noise at start up. Sounds like the rotor is too close to the stator on one side or a piece of debris is caught in the winding and rubbing on the rotor. Alignment of the stator to the rotor is critical in those types of motors.

That's my thoughts right now. I did get the arbor nut off, but it seems the bearing at that end is mounted in the end cap. I don't think I will be able to get it off, as I don't have a bearing puller (if that's even what is required). however, I can now move the rotor maybe 3/4 in and out of the stator.

I think the next step is to try and get it back together and run up, but when I tried that, it doesn't run at all. I think that's because the rotor is probably touching the sides in places.

Is there a procedure for centering the rotor within the stator? I was thinking of using thin plastic strips to separate the rotor from the stator while I tighten the bolts holding the endcaps on. The clearance can't be more than 1/32. Since the bearing appears to be in the endcap, this must be super critical.

I did the math on taking it to a motor shop, at $100-$200 minimum, the amount I'd have in the saw then would be getting close to the cost of a new Craftsman, which is very similar to the RIDGID.

On the wiring, I plugged my 220V belt sander into the socket, and all is well. I checked the input to the motor with a multimeter, and all is well there too.

[Lee Schierer]

Is there a procedure for centering the rotor within the stator? I was thinking of using thin plastic strips to separate the rotor from the stator while I tighten the bolts holding the endcaps on. The clearance can't be more than 1/32. Since the bearing appears to be in the endcap, this must be super critical.

I don't know how they do this in production, but they make plastic shim stock of various thicknesses in sheets that are about 1 x 17. You could cut strips from shim stock to perfectly center the rotor in the stator while you tighten the bolts.

I don't think you need to pull the bearings, just get the motor end caps on and tight with the rotor centered.

[Don Jarvie]

Take a good look at that switch and see if it is fully engaged. It may have a loose connection in it and as you are moving it back and forth it's not fully engaging.

If this is all you did then something is up with the switch.

If you can post a few pictures it would help.

Don

[Mark Ashmeade]

Well I managed to get the thing apart, and found nothing untoward. I put it back together, and the rotor was spinning freely. When I reconnected it, it just sat there dead, no humming, no nothing.

I put it back to 110, and then it hummed, but nothing else. I assumed it was the start windings or capacitor, and spun it by hand, and it did run, but slowly. After 5 seconds, the dreaded white smoke came out. I tested the capacitor, it seems OK, so that leaves me with the windings. It's probably tostada, and to be honest, I have spent several hundred dollars of my time on the thing by now, if I were charging.

There's the equivalent model Craftsman on CL here for $165, and I will cut my losses, and go get that. I may even be able to talk them down a bit. The RIDGID is in excellent pre-event condition, so I will probably put the motor on the RIDGID. If the C-man is even better, then I'll keep it as is. The annoying thing is, as I dismantled the saw, I was actually quite impressed with its construction. All thickly cast alloy on the arm, I had expected steel. The steel's only for the top cover. At least I'll have a source of parts!

Thanks to all who helped, time to draw a line under this and go get a well deserved beer.

[Randall Clark]

Are you holding your mouth right?

[Don Alexander]

curiosity finally got the best of me so i will ask what seems an obvious question ............ why would you mess with a perfectly functioning saw in the first place? especially when there isn't much (if any ) advantage to 220v as opposed to 110v

JUST curious , not trying to be critical or start anything

[Mark Ashmeade]

curiosity finally got the best of me so i will ask what seems an obvious question ............ why would you mess with a perfectly functioning saw in the first place? especially when there isn't much (if any ) advantage to 220v as opposed to 110v

JUST curious , not trying to be critical or start anything

A question I am asking myself as we speak. However, the answer is, I didn't have 220V where it was, and moved it to gain some space. On moving it, there was a free 220V receptacle, and just a single 110.

In general, my experience has been that if I can run a tool on 220, it will perform better than 110. I only ever run one tool at a time, so at 220, it will have exclusive use of the circuit. However, on 110, it will share with battery chargers and the like. I much prefer to use 220 if I can, but the RAS didn't have an available receptacle where it was. Once I moved it, the option was there.

What I learned from this: with a used tool, if it's working, don't mess with it. If it was new, I would be banging the warranty drum.

[Richard Dragin]

In general, my experience has been that if I can run a tool on 220, it will perform better than 110.

Oh boy, here we go.

Do yourself a favor and take this opportunity to get a Dewalt instead.