Anyone noticed Freuds chipping teeth more often than some others?

[Nick Sorenson]

I have had a number of Freuds over the past year on my RAS. I also have a Forrest WWI (my main blade but at 60T it's not very good for ripping but it does leave a nice finish). So when I rip I switch to a Freud 40T 8". It works well when it's new but it seems like the teeth have a tendency to chip. I cut some laminate but minimally. The Forrest has probably seen just as much laminate as the Freuds have if not more and it's teeth are still fine. Seems like the Freuds have brittle teeth. Anyone else noticed this?

[Richard Dragin]

I can't believe you admitted to ripping on your RAS in a public forum. Hold on to your hat!

[Van Huskey]

Well that isn't the best ripping blade...

There are different types of carbide on different types of Freud blades, some more brittle some more forgiving and they are matched to the purpose of the blade, using it "off label" is more likely to cause issues.

In general I have not seen this. What blade are you using, is it a Freud Industrial if so which one.

[Nick Sorenson]

Well that isn't the best ripping blade...

There are different types of carbide on different types of Freud blades, some more brittle some more forgiving and they are matched to the purpose of the blade, using it "off label" is more likely to cause issues.

In general I have not seen this. What blade are you using, is it a Freud Industrial if so which one.

I've used both the Diablo and the industrial and both chipped and surprisingly seemed to perform about as well. I think it's an LU83 or 84 (can't remember without running down to take look). It's 8" and 40T combination. I have it on the RAS (old DeWalt) right now. I actually rip using the 60T Forrest Mr. Sawdust on some woods and it works fine. Not the case with hard Maple. But I don't have a splitter on the DeWalt either. A splitter would help a LOT. But how do you pull that off on a RAS? Seems tricky.

And yes to Richard, I rip on the radial all the time. I actually sometimes prefer it to the table saw (have an old Walker Turner cabinet saw in good alignment). I can get some really nice accurate cuts with the DeWalt both ripping and crosscutting. And yes, it's tuned very well. That makes a world of difference in it's performance and cut quality.

[Ed Labadie]

Haven't had a problem with any of my Freud blades chipping. The glue line rip on my Uni has been sharpened 3 times, still like new. No problems with the 16" rip blade either, been used enough to need sharpening once. My SCMS blade is a Freud also, no problems....
Just one exception, when I hit a #10 nail lengthwise on the 16" DeWalt GE. That left a "chip" in my wallet for blade repairs too.

Ed

[Don Alexander]

use freud blades almost exclusively and only chipping i have ever gotten is when i hit a nail or screw that i missed getting out of used wood even then doesn't always result in chipped teeth

[Van Huskey]

I've used both the Diablo and the industrial and both chipped and surprisingly seemed to perform about as well. I think it's an LU83 or 84 (can't remember without running down to take look). It's 8" and 40T combination. I have it on the RAS (old DeWalt) right now. I actually rip using the 60T Forrest Mr. Sawdust on some woods and it works fine. Not the case with hard Maple. But I don't have a splitter on the DeWalt either. A splitter would help a LOT. But how do you pull that off on a RAS? Seems tricky.

And yes to Richard, I rip on the radial all the time. I actually sometimes prefer it to the table saw (have an old Walker Turner cabinet saw in good alignment). I can get some really nice accurate cuts with the DeWalt both ripping and crosscutting. And yes, it's tuned very well. That makes a world of difference in it's performance and cut quality.

The LU83/84 are the same just the 83 is thin kerf. They both use a 4/1 tooth ATB/flat tooth design with slightly harder than middle of the road carbide. The carbide shouldn't be the issue BUT the ATB teeth are more likely to chip. You mention laminate, for laminate you want very hard carbide and a triple chip tooth and although the carbide is brittle as tool edge carbide goes the tooth design has very low susceptability to chipping this would be the LU98/97 blades. For hardwood ripping (up to 1") you would be better served with a glue line rip like the LM74 which has a triple chip grind tooth and less brittle carbide for thicker stock the LM71/72 blades with flat top grind.

In the end I have not seen what you descibe personally but you could try the blades that by design are better suited to your exact use OR just stick with Forrest blades in the future if they work better for you.

[Nick Sorenson]

The LU83/84 are the same just the 83 is thin kerf. They both use a 4/1 tooth ATB/flat tooth design with slightly harder than middle of the road carbide. The carbide shouldn't be the issue BUT the ATB teeth are more likely to chip. You mention laminate, for laminate you want very hard carbide and a triple chip tooth and although the carbide is brittle as tool edge carbide goes the tooth design has very low susceptability to chipping this would be the LU98/97 blades. For hardwood ripping (up to 1") you would be better served with a glue line rip like the LM74 which has a triple chip grind tooth and less brittle carbide for thicker stock the LM71/72 blades with flat top grind.

In the end I have not seen what you descibe personally but you could try the blades that by design are better suited to your exact use OR just stick with Forrest blades in the future if they work better for you.

The Forrest is a TCG so that may be the difference right there. But I also have a 5 or 6 LU92 1/8" blades and they are TCG. They're also missing teeth/chipped. I bought those used from a Cabinet shop (ebay lot). They were used for Laminate only.

[dennis thompson]

Nick
I had one of the chippers on my Freud dado get a chip in it. I sent it back to Freud & they replaced the blade for free. They have very good customer service ,you might want to call them to discuss your problem
Dennis

[Peter Quinn]

I have used Freud blades and cutters on every major cutting or shaping tool in the shop except the RAS and have never had a chipping issue. But I do work mostly with hardwoods and some plywood, probable less than 1/4 sheet of laminate has passed over my work tables..

[scott spencer]

I've used many Freud blades, several Forrest blades, and dozens of others without chipping, so I'd have to say I haven't noticed the Freud teeth chipping more easily. Two occurrences might be a nuisance, but it's not much of a trend, so I wouldn't read too much into it. It's probably either random, or has some other assignable cause.

BTW, the Freud Diablo and Freud Industrial blades are made with the same equipment, from the same materials, to the same standards, but the Industrial blades have thicker teeth to withstand more sharpenings, so it's logical that similar blades from the Diablo and Industrial lines have similar performance.

[Nick Sorenson]

I've used many Freud blades, several Forrest blades, and dozens of others without chipping, so I'd have to say I haven't noticed the Freud teeth chipping more easily. Two occurrences might be a nuisance, but it's not much of a trend, so I wouldn't read too much into it. It's probably either random, or has some other assignable cause.

BTW, the Freud Diablo and Freud Industrial blades are made with the same equipment, from the same materials, to the same standards, but the Industrial blades have thicker teeth to withstand more sharpenings, so it's logical that similar blades from the Diablo and Industrial lines have similar performance.

I thought it wasn't just me that they cut the same. After I used both for a bit I really thought the Diablo was a better value. Especially after they both chipped teeth. I think they were both 3/32" kerf.

[Lee Schierer]

My First Freud thin 10" 24 tooth kerf ripping blade had teeth that chipped, my newer blades (none are rip blades) have chipped teeth. Overall for the price you can't beat the quality of cut.

[Paul Janders]

I can't believe you admitted to ripping on your RAS in a public forum. Hold on to your hat!

Before I purchased a table saw I used my Craftsman RAS for ripping all the time. It was the fastest thing I had for producing cabinet parts. It worked really well.

However, I must admit the table saw is much quicker and more convenient.

[Will Overton]

My first Freud glue line rip blade is going out for its third sharpening with no chipped teeth. In the past I used a 50 tooth Freud combo while the rip blade was out. It's going in for its first sharpening with no chips. Since I just got a new table saw I bought a new Freud glue line rip blade to start it off.

My ras and scms have Forrest blades on them, no chips. In fact in 40+ years I only chipped teeth on 2 blades. One was a Craftsman blade which hit the table insert when I screwed something up many years ago. The other was a Leitz blade a couple of years ago. Never could figure that one out.