[OP]
Guest
Buried in the thread about my workshop construction is Jonathan Szczepanski's first post complimenting me on my project.
Jonathan is an aspiring furniture maker who is taking on the task of constructing a stand-alone workshop. He is just starting construction and, from what I have seen, Jonathan appears to be even better organized than I was. Check out Jonathan's web site with plans, a journal, etc. at http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Last edited by Frank Pellow; 12-18-2004 at 8:29 AM.
Member
Again, Jonathan...WELCOME! Glad you followed the link....
Keith
Member
Very cool site Jonathan. Good luck with the shop project. You'll like it here.
Member
Jonathan,
Welcome to the Creek. Nice website on your shop project.
FYI, you could probably do the shop electrical yourself and save $3000-4000. That may not be something you're interested in, but thought I'd let you know.
Is the lighting layout specifally showing diagonal lines for a reason?
Rob
Member
Rob, I want to have half of the lights on one circuit and the other half on a second. This is so that if there is enough natural light from the outside, I'll only turn on half of the lights. I also want to have even light coverage from both light circuits, so the lights on each circuit are spread evenly across the ceiling. I thought that running the wire on a diagonal would be easier and use less wire then at 90 degrees... but I don't really know, I;m just guessing at it.Originally Posted by Rob Russell
As for the electric, I am going to run all of the circuits myself. I am contracting someone to run power to the shop, because it is out of my comfort zone... and you need to be a licensed electrician to do it.
Jonathan P. Szczepanski
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Member
Is Maryland one of those states where you have to be licensed even to work on your own home? If it is, I understand. Still, you say that they're running the basic circuit (installing a subpanel in the shop) and you're doing the rest. The quote on your website was $7500 - is that just to trench power out to the shop, install ground rods and the subpanel? If it is, that seems high. Just my opinion.
FYI, installing a subpanel is really just another form of running a circuit. Yeah, there are some extra rules - but the basics are the same.
On the lights, run 14/3 down your middle set of lights. Run laterals off to each of the lights. With the 14/3, you can put each light on either circuit and switch from circuit to circuit simply by changing the hot conductor you use.
Rob
Last edited by Rob Russell; 12-17-2004 at 9:47 PM.
Contributor
Welcome Jonathan !!! It great to have more people swimming the creek. Outstanding website and best of luck with the shop contruction.
Rich
"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking."
- General George Patton Jr
Moderator
Welcome, Jonathan. 'Looks like you're going to have a great shop!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
Maryland, and specifically Prince George's County, is extremly strict code wise. And the $7500 quote is for uping the house to 200 amps, trenching, and sending 60 amps to the shop. These prices are the reality for living outside of Washington, DC. The real estate market is insane, so contractors can pretty much charge what they want.
For example the foundation estimates ranged from $8900 to $25,000 for the exact same work. Amazing.
Jonathan P. Szczepanski
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[OP]
Guest
WOW that is expensive! The final cost of my shop project including material, dust collector, fees, taxes, and sub-contracting is going to come in at less than $25,000 (US).
Member
Hey - ya play by the rules you're given. "Strict codeist" doesn't mean you couldn't do the work yourself, unless there are other local laws that say you must be a licensed electrician to work on your own home.
60 amp panel? I'd put in a 100 amp sub for the shop. The difference in materials cost is nominal - slightly larger conduit and conductors. Put in a large panel too - lots of breaker slots. You might be talking about a few hundred $ upcharge to go from the 60 amp to 100 amp panel given the length of the trench and captive market pricing you have to deal with. Still, you're far better of having the extra capacity and not needing it than to discover you want the juice and have to upgrade later.
Do it "right" the first time.
Last edited by Rob Russell; 12-19-2004 at 9:57 AM. Reason: Spelling
Contributor
Jonathan........Welcome to the 'Creek! Neat bunch here always willing to exchange ideas! I'm like Frank building a new shop. I'm finishing electrical wiring for lighting and then I'm ready to insulate and cover. If I may....I'll agree with Rob......I'd consider 100 amp service to your new shop. Not much increase in price. I installed 200 amp service and a separate meter to mine. I'm lucky in that my monthly minimun charge for the additional meter is only 6 dollar plus change. I live in a town that is extremely code conscience and so am I! I've moved and lived in a wide variety of places in my 36 years of marriage and the biggest headaches I've faced as a homeowner came as a result of some previous owners non-compliance to codes. However, having strict codes doesn't necessarily mean you can't do the work yourself, it just means it has to meet code requirements. Good luck with you project! I hope you enjoy building yours as much as I've had and am having!
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Member
Welcome Jonathan! Looks like you have a great plan there. Glad you are going to chronical the construction on the web.
Member
The foundation isn't finished yet. Because of the weather and the holidays, my foundation contractor, Fred, hasn't been able to get back to work on it. I'm hoping that Fred will be able to start the block work next week. After that is the slab, but Fred wants to wait until the slab is covered over before he pours. This is not how I thought the plan would go.
Fred says right now that weather is too unpredictable to pour the slab with confidence. He says the best way to proceed is to build the block walls, and then frame as much of the structure as possible until I can get the area for the slab covered. Once the slab is covered, he then can pour the slab without having to worry about the weather.
With a closed space rain or snow will be kept off of the ground, and Fred said that he can then use a "warming blanket" to keep the temperature at a pourable level.
The problem with going this route is that if I don't have a slab as a work surface. Where can I build the walls? I won't be able to frame the walls on the ground and keep them square.
Here are the options that I see.
OPTION 1 - Wait for an opportunity to pour the slab before the framing.
Pro: It will be easier to frame.
Con: It could be a while before Mother Nature coperates. The slab could be poured in less then ideal conditions, and it would run the risk of cracking after.
OPTION 2 - Frame before at an alternate framing area (my deck).
Pro: Faster time line. Pour can happen at anytime after the area is covered.
Con: Transporting walls from framing area to construction area. Maintaining "square" during transport.
OPTION 3 - Frame before on the ground.
Pro: Faster time line. Pour can happen at anytime after the area is covered.
Con: Walls will be more difficult to construct accurately due to the irregular ground.
So what does everyone think? Which option would you go with? Does anyone have a better option?
Jonathan P. Szczepanski
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Member
it seems to me that the walls are more temp delicate than the slab. concrete for the slab can be placed at temps as low as 40 f without a
problem.. if u are unsure have fred order Type III cement (high early) cover the slab with visqueen for 24 hrs ...heat of hydration is sufficient to continue the chemical process
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