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Thread: ligt surface rust removal

  1. #1
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    ligt surface rust removal

    So we sold our house and had to move temporarily in an apt while we looked for a new one. Among other things the hand tools also went into storage. Now that we are in a house and I have started unpacking the tools I see spots of rust all over the place. It is not as bad to require an acid bath or something that drastic, but I do know steel wool and mineral spirits will do quiet well. Just asking to see if there are any better options for removing light surface rust.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  2. #2
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    For light removal, I've used a scotch-brite pad and mineral sprites and/or sandflex hand blocks. There are coarse, medium, and fine blocks and you may not need them all. For more serious, but not really bad, rust I use Boeshield Rust remover. Don't allow the rust remover to sit too long or it will stain. Here are some links but you might find better prices somewhere else.

    http://www.amazon.com/Sandflex-Sandi.../dp/B000GACU1Q

    http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshiel...VvzmhXwrpDw190
    Last edited by Gary Hodgin; 09-22-2010 at 8:57 PM. Reason: Clarify

  3. #3
    Just use sandpaper, use the finest grit that works. Then I wipe on synthetic motor oil.
    Mike

  4. #4
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    Mike, I like your idea. I will try that, never thought about motor oil for rust prevention. I think the problem was the tools sat in storage for almost 9-10 months and went through a couple of seasonal changes which eventually added up.
    Gary, thanks for the links. I have restored lots of old tools, but typically they tend to be deeply rusted and require some kind of acid or electrolytic treatment. Never had my own tools rust on me before, mainly because I use them at least once a week and in general keep an eye on them continuously.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  5. #5
    I like steel wool and wd40. A light coat of wd40 after also makes a reasonable rust preventer. Wet it and let it soak overnight. This may minimize the abrasion required, if burnishing is an issue.

  6. #6
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    I never had luck with WD-40, most people will tell you wd-40 is not much of a rust preventer. Burnishing is an issue on a Clifton shoulder plane I have, but I don't see any other way around it, except perhaps electrolysis. Then again I am a user not a collector, so a little ding here a little ding there, a little roughness here a little roughness there is not going to hurt my feelings, it adds character to the tools
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  7. #7
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    White vinegar is much milder than other rust removing chemicals and very effective for the light rust you describe. No scrubbing needed.

    Just don't use it for your salads afterwards.

  8. #8
    Another vote for scotchbrite, but I use paste wax with it on really light rust. I only use that after a sandflex block, mostly to clean off the abrasive and rubber that the block left behind.

    It (scotchbrite - either gray or white) also makes a nice medium to apply wax to planes that don't get used a lot - much better rust protector than light oil.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Easton View Post
    White vinegar is much milder than other rust removing chemicals and very effective for the light rust you describe. No scrubbing needed.

    Just don't use it for your salads afterwards.
    I wish someone would come up with a list of things that white vinegar does well. I think a list of things it doesn't do well would be shorter. I don't know how many times I've read that white vinegar is good for this and that. Never hear anything about the dark vinegar other than cooking. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Hodgin View Post
    I wish someone would come up with a list of things that white vinegar does well. I think a list of things it doesn't do well would be shorter. I don't know how many times I've read that white vinegar is good for this and that. Never hear anything about the dark vinegar other than cooking. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.
    Dark vinegar is made from apple cider and is a little more dilute. The apples give a flavor. White vinegar is a man made solution and serves as a condiment, cleaner, lime remover and so on. I believe there is a book about what you can do with white vinegar..........and it just falls short of being a miracle liquid. If Billie Mays was still alive, he'd be selling it for only $9.95 plus handling.....but wait a minute.........if you buy in the next ten minutes............

  11. #11
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    Depending on the severity, I use a slurry of 3-1 oil and barkeepers friend.

  12. Once you get the rust off, get yourself some camilla oil in the large spray bottle from Japan Woodworker, or where ever.... spray a small rag and give the tools a light coat when you put the plane away. Camilla oil is wood friendly, as opposed to a WD40.

  13. #13
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    Okay, I have to ask

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Hodgin View Post
    For light removal, I've used a scotch-brite pad and mineral sprites...
    What do you feed your mineral sprites to keep them happy?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    What do you feed your mineral sprites to keep them happy?
    The little devils will consume about anything, including light rust.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Hodgin View Post
    The little devils will consume about anything, including light rust.
    Gary,

    I've searched all over for a gallon of Mineral "Sprites". When I ask about it, they just stare at my forehead.

    Is Mineral Sprites anything like the soft drink?

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