[OP]
Member
Where to hang Air Filtration
Found a like new Jet Air Filtration on craigslist (he allmost paid me to take it) Back to the help, where is the best location to hang the unit and get the best filtration. Is the center of the shop the best? In the manual it gives no tips on where to hang it for the best filtration. Any help I thank you.
Rich
Member
Amazing that most of these manufacturers don't speak to this issue, in their manuals.
My JDS didn't, either.
I've looked at lots of sites, on the subject. I think it's well summed-up, here:
http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Articl...trol_7484.aspx
That latter part ... I totally messed up, and haven't changedAs important as the air cleaner size is how and where you mount it.
Try to mount at about 8-10 feet above the floor (no lower than 6' or 2/3 of the floor to ceiling distance if less than 8' ceiling)
Mount along the longest wall so the intake is approximately 1/3 the distance from the shorter wall. Mount no further than 4-6 inches from the wall.
The exhaust is the largest determiner of the circulation pattern. You are trying to encourage circulation parallel to the floor/ceiling. The exhaust is the clean air so that is what you want to position yourself in if you are looking for health benefits. If the dust has to pass your nose to get to the air cleaner, you get no benefits.
I stand right between my TS and my JDS unit. I have the rich, aromatic blend of ... whatever I cut ... all the time [but ... now wear my 3M 7500, most of the time, anyway....].
When I get really bored, I'll heft the 90-pound beast, and simply swivel it around, 180*. That'll do 'er.
Member
I'm curious how one of these hung air filtration units would be different than a 20" box fan with a HEPA filter taped to the back? I've personally used a box fan with a filter for years and it does a good job cleaning the air. It's also only 6" thick, so it can go anywhere in the shop.
What are the advantages to using a 60lb ceiling hung unit? I imagine the circulation patterns in the shop would be the same regardless of which system you used.
Member
The advantage has to do with the type of fan, the 60 lb units generally utilize squirrel cage blowers which can produce more static pressure and pull more air through more restrictive filters.
The ceiling mount unit also can incorporate multiple filters so a cheaper pleat can catch the bulk and be replaced more frequently while a filter (like a Hepa or bag filter) can be mounted behind it to catch the finer particulates.
Member
Here are some general rules based on Nagyszalanczy's "Workshop Dust Control" and some of my own experiences and thoughts.
The two most important criteria for an air cleaner are the CFM and the filters. You want a CFM factor that will clean the size of your shop and a filter that removes the particle size that you are concerned about.
To determine the size or required air flow, use this formula: Volume of your shop (Length x width x Height) times Number of air changes per hour (typically 6 - 8) divided by 60. This will give you an answer in Cubic Feet per Minute which is how air cleaners are measured. MOST AIR CLEANER MANUFACTURERS RATE THE CFM OF THE FAN ONLY, but there are losses due to the filters. If you are building your own or if the air cleaner you are purchasing rates only the fan, figure you will lose about 25 - 40% for filtering losses.
As important as the air cleaner size is how and where you mount it. Try to mount at about 8-10 feet above the floor (no lower than 6'or 2/3 of the floor to ceiling distance if less than 8' ceiling). Mount along the longest wall so the intake is approximately 1/3 the distance from the shorter wall. Mount no further than 4-6 inches from the wall.
The exhaust is the largest determiner of the circulation pattern. You are trying to encourage circulation parallel to the floor/ceiling so ceiling mounting is not recommended. Use a smoke stick (or a cigar) to observe and maximize circulation. Use a secondary fan to direct air to the intake if necessary. Also, consider that a standard 24" floor fan moves a lot of air and, in some shops, just positioning it in a doorway with a window or other door open can accomplish as much or more than an air cleaner. It's all in the circulation patterns.
The exhaust is the clean air so that is where you want to position yourself. Do not place the air cleaner over the a dust producer. That will guarantee that the operator will be in direct line between the dust producer and the air cleaner. The operator wants to be in the clean air stream. If the dust has to pass your nose to get to the air cleaner, you get no benefits. If you have an odd shaped shop, two smaller units may be better than one large one.
DO NOT RELY ON A AIR CLEANER TO ACT AS A DUST COLLECTOR. The purpose of and air cleaner is to keep airborne dust in suspension and reduce airborne dust as quickly as possible AFTER THE DUST PRODUCER HAS BEEN TURNED OFF.
Finally, if you are looking for health benefits, you will not find any air cleaner manufacturer that makes health claims because there are few health benefits. CATCHING DUST AT IT'S SOURCE IS THE BEST LONG TERM GOAL. Rick Peters', author of "Controlling Dust in the Workshop", makes the point that spending your money getting the dust at its source is a better investment than trying to capture it after it is already airborne. If the dust is in the air, it's going to be in your nose and lungs too.
Howie.........
Member
As mentioned 1/3 down the longest least obstructed wall as near the ceiling as possible,
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Member
I went with the suggestion from my Grizzly manual, and mounted it on the ceiling, along the longest, most unobstructed wall, at an angle, so as to make the air flow in a circular motion around the shop. This is also just on the tail side of where all the worst dust producing machines / jobs get done, specifically sanding, and sawing...
The ceiling height is 8' 6", the machine is 15" tall, and mounts to 2x4 mounting cleats on the ceiling, for a total height off of the floor to the bottom of the machine at around 7' 1.5". Not going to get a sheet of plywood under it but it is high enough I don't smash my skull into it... Or at least that is the plan... You see the cleats are up, but my back went out, and I haven't been able to mount up the machine yet...
Trying to follow the example of the master...
Looking to buy new Jet air filtration system. How is yours working - happy with it?
Volume of air moved and efficiency of the filter. My shop made unit runs flat HEPA filters and has to be cleaned every couple weeks. Dad's JDS gets cleaned a few times a year without losing efficiency.Originally Posted by Greg Book
The JDS won out is the last reviews I have seen. It is surprising how similar or even better units by "the numbers" didn't compare well in actual tests. I do take most reviews with a grain of salt however.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 10-02-2010 at 10:21 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
Catch the decent article in FWW over the past few months to see their review of filtering units. I had a rare chance to both read the article and see 3 of the tested units in actual operation before I bought my JDS 750 unit. Here are a few thoughts in addition to the great mounting and usage info everyone already posted. The Delta unit was reviewed as being noisy, I confirmed this at my local wood supplier who has the same unit mounted in their store to help lower dust near the cash register desk. The Delta unit does have a indicator gauge mounted on the unit to help let you know when filter clogging is happening, so you know when to change/clean the filters. If you tend to let maint. go around your shop, this could be a great feature that you'd want to have in a filtration unit.
Jet, like the FWW unit also stated, removing the filters wasn't quite as easy as the JDS unit, but it's not a deal breaker for probably most folks. The unit I saw in action was quieter than the Delta but a bit noiser than the JDS, and the price is almost always low or on sale at some point in a year, so I can see how popular the Jet is. It was my #2 pick. The remote worked well for this unit.
JDS, mounted just a few feet away from the Jet at my local Woodcraft store. The filter removal for the coarsest or first filter is very easy. It slides out from the side. You won't need to remove a whole end plate or grill to access it. The Main filter , which sits further in may take a bit more work. I didn't try removing it in the store since I want to stay on good terms with my buddies at the Woodcraft store
Remote also works well, and the unit was quietest of the 3 at Low and Medium. On High Speed, I think you have to be prepared to put up with alot of noise, but this is a subjective thing you'd need to check out and you may never need to use this setting. My JDS suffered a circuit board failure shortly after buying and running it. I lost Low speed only, and the motor was being turned on and off for a split second by the failed electronics control. I unplugged the filter unit and contacted JDS. They promptly mailed out a new board, stated how sorry they were about the failure of the circuit board. It was covered under the warranty. Changing out the board is very easy. I added a surge protector to the power cord to prevent further board failure since JDS thought a spike may have taken the unit out. Something to think about with any of the air filter units that have electronics and remotes to run/control them.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
