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Thread: Broken blade lock on PM2000

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Seattle
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    Broken blade lock on PM2000

    I have a PM2000 I bought about 2.5 years ago. The blade lock just broke. The trouble is the pawl against which the spring that retracts the lock pushes broke off (see pic). My concern is the lock could vibrate into "lock" position while the saw is running, causing all kinds of havoc. Any other owners have this? How did PM respond?

    Dan

    Saw.jpg
    Last edited by Dan Mitchell; 10-08-2010 at 3:43 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    San Ramon, California
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    89

    PM is responsive, call them.

    I have a PM 2000 but have not had the same problem you have. I did have a problem with the caster retraction/lowering mechanism and PM responded beautifully. They sent a service person out 3 times until it was working. First time he determined he needed some parts. A few days later he returned to install the parts. Operation wasn't to his satisfaction so after contacting PM, again he came out to "get it right".

    Contact PM. I think you will be satisfied with their response.
    Education is what remains after one has forgotten everything he learned in school. Einstein

    In my shop I remove the "S" from scrap wood.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mitchell View Post
    I have a PM2000 I bought about 2.5 years ago. The blade lock just broke. The trouble is the pawl against which the spring that retracts the lock pushes broke off (see pic). My concern is the lock could vibrate into "lock" position while the saw is running, causing all kinds of havoc. Any other owners have this? How did PM respond?
    Dan
    Is your warranty expired? PM should send you the piece to replace this broken part! If they balk, the part looks easily made from steel.

    Until you resolve the problem, leave the parts off your saw. No need to take a chance on creating an accident. It's a fact that blades can be changed quite well without any "lock". I wedge a block of wood in front of the blade to loosen the arbor nut. The block goes behind to tighten it up again. As the saw teeth bite into the wood, over-tightening is avoided. I fear you have used a few, too-many footpounds to tighten your arbor nut.
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    As Charles said, contact Powermatic. Their customer service has always been excellent when I have called on them.
    Chip may have a point on over tightening your blade. I have learned to just snug the arbor nut. By design, the left hand thread will tighten itself when you turn on the saw.
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  5. #5
    I had the same problem on my PM2000. The only symptom I had was the inability to keep the round tab on the lock in the arbor blade lock slot. The spring was disengaged due to the lock metal being broken out on the outboard end. I could manually move the red lock lever in the lock mechanism but it would not stay in the lock position when I attempted to loosen the blade. The force on the round portion of locking tab forced the mechanism to back out of saw arbor lock slot. I ordered the broken part (I also ordered a spare) from Powermatic. After finding the spring, buried in what little sawdust is inside the cabinet, I installed the lock with no further problems noted. I do believe the metal failed causing the spring to be ineffective.
    Last edited by Harry Hill; 10-08-2010 at 3:54 PM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Hill View Post
    I could manually move the red lock lever in the lock mechanism but it would not stay in the lock position when I attempted to loosen the blade.
    Hmm, I didn't know it was supposed to stay engaged.

  7. #7
    HAHA Good catch! Of course, you are correct; it is not suppose to stay engaged. It is probably just my poor memory. I remember the broken lock would not prevent the blade from rotating; it kept slipping out (it had become distorted from being crimped between the rear frame when fully retracting tht blade). I then used a board to prevent the blade rotating as I removed the nut.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Long Island N.Y.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noah Katz View Post
    Hmm, I didn't know it was supposed to stay engaged.
    It's not.
    It's the spring's job to keep it DISENGAGED.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Seattle
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    313
    Thanks for the replies. After a bit of discussion about the warranty period, they decided to send the part out, gratis It can't be a very expensive bit, and it's quite small, so shipping isn't going to be much. Good customer relations.

    I really don't think this has anything to do with how firmly I tighten the blade. The only force that acts upon the portion which broke off comes from the spring which retracts the pawl after you release it. The stress of torquing the blade does not impact this area. I was able to wedge the broken part back into place temporarily, seems pretty tight, hopefully it will remain that way until the new one arrives. They said it would ship on Monday.

    I really like this saw, had a Unisaw previously, I prefer the PM. 1st trouble I've had, hopefully the last!

    Thanks again,

    Dan

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    9,447
    Curious, what was the warranty issue? YOu said you purchased it 2 and 1/2 years ago correct?
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

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