A few choices on a bench grinder for sharpening... What would you do?

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Hello Peoples,

I have continued to have some pretty serious problems with my slow speed grinder for sharpening my turning tools. I have had a number of threads here on the creek to this end. It is possible that I could fix my grinder. I think the last remaining problem is that bearing in the grinder have failed. I could continue to work on it but I don't really want to. I am just tired of the same old fight with hardware rather than doing the turning and woodworking that I actually enjoy.

So I have been searching and searching for a higher grade basically industrial grinder. I have found a few old ones that are more honestly than I would have expected for a 30 year old grinder. I have also found some new grinders. What a range that is possible. Well I am just about out of money for hobbies and what the LOML calls toys. So most of these involve some saving up to make things happen.

Now one of the things that makes this a bit harder on me is that there are so so so many variations on what is recommended for sharpening. Some suggest 6" others 8". Some say high-speed is fine as long as it is smooth running. Others say must be low-speed. Well I have reached my own conclusions on some of that. I want a low speed grinder. Much like the one that I had. I just think that for me it is a better call.

So I started searching things and I found some options:
- I found a new Baldor 6" low speed grinder for about $400 including shipping.

- For twice that I found an 8" Baldor low speed grinder for about $800. Again both are new.

- I found a General low speed 6" and an 8" but the General Int. 8" will only support 3/4" wide wheels. This is a bit of a problem as everyone I can find uses a 1" wide Norton wheel. The 6" is about $140 including shipping and the 8" is about $190.

- Then there are some other not-new options. I found an older heavy metal low speed grinder. Seems pretty good but it is missing a few parts and is of something on an indeterminate age. It is however $200.

I can afford right now either the used or the General. I can almost swing the 6" baldor. I would have to save for another 3 or 4 months to swing a Baldor 8".

So I am looking for more expert advice than my own over-active mind. Anyone have any recommendations for me?

Thanks,
Joshua

[Van Huskey]

I am a fan of 8" low speed grinders for general use in a wood shop. I have 4 at different price points that I would buy or recommend.

Bottom price Woodcraft's @~120
Delta GR450 I think it is called, variable speed @~150 shipped
Grizzly's Industrial 8" @~550 shipped
Baldor @800+

My two cents:

Get good Norton stones
Get the Oneway balance system
Get the Delta 8"

The balance system will go a long way to smoothing out the vibrations and in theory should help the bearings last longer. You can replace the Delta 5 times before you reach the price of the Baldor, almost 4 times before the Grizzly. If you aren't a Delta person (dunno it may be the grinder that is giving you issues) I would say go with the 8" General Int. the more industrial grinders are nice and if you use them everyday all day I would get the Baldor in a second, if you are using it in a hobby woodworking shop for me the price of admission would be aweful steep.

[Mike Cruz]

I too, like the 8" slow speed. I got the low end Woodcraft. DON'T waste you time getting it!!!!!! I got it in the mail. Started it up. I wobbled like a, like a, heck, I've never seen anything wobble so badly. So, I called WC, and they sent me a new one (great CS as always). The new one wobbled almost as bad. This time, though, they sent alone the balancing kit. I fiddled with that thing for HOURS trying to get the wheels balanced properly. They are "good enough". My HF spins smoother...staight out of the box.

Oh, and it wasn't the wheels. I tried a couple differnet ones. It is an alignment on the shafts issue.

[Joshua Dinerstein]

I too, like the 8" slow speed. I got the low end Woodcraft. DON'T waste you time getting it!!!!!! I got it in the mail. Started it up. I wobbled like a, like a, heck, I've never seen anything wobble so badly. So, I called WC, and they sent me a new one (great CS as always). The new one wobbled almost as bad. This time, though, they sent alone the balancing kit. I fiddled with that thing for HOURS trying to get the wheels balanced properly. They are "good enough". My HF spins smoother...staight out of the box.

Oh, and it wasn't the wheels. I tried a couple differnet ones. It is an alignment on the shafts issue.

That is what I have and exactly what I have been experiencing. I am just tired of getting terrible grinds that can't even be called sharpening. So I am looking to upgrade to something better. I just don't know what to upgrade too or how far to go. Clearly an $800 baldor would be great, no questions asked.

But do I need that or is a 6" baldor that I can come closer to afford enough?

I looked in person at the display model of the Delta at the local tool store, M&M Tool, and it vibrated and wobbled and seemed no better than what I have right now. But it could be that it is a floor display or that it was put together wrong by the store or ... But it kind of turned me off on it.

I should probably give it a better look and see if it can't be used.

Joshua

[Greg Portland]

Joshua,
I was in a similar situation a few years ago and went with a 8" Grizzly Industrial over the Baldor option. This grinder has lighting, cast iron wheel gaurds, and very beefy 1" shaft for ~$200 less than the Baldor. Here is my review of the unit.

Having said that, an industrial 8" bench grinder is a HUGE overkill for sharpening. You may be better served looking at sanding belt systems or a wet-grinder (Tormek, etc.).

[Michael Arruda]

If you're looking at spending $800, get a more utilitarian tool- if you look around, you should be able to find a used Burr-King Belt sander for around that price. This is the big daddy of sharpeners- go into a knife making shop or good sharpening service, they have at least one. If you go this route, you can not only sharpen your lathe tools, but also blades and scisors, knives- heck, start sharpening things for friends and family; make the money you put into it back in a year or two of casual sharpening.

-Michael

[Callan Campbell]

I don't think they still carry my model, even though it's been about 2 yrs or so tops since I got it. Anyway, it's not the high end model that Greg bought[gloat, gloat, envy!!!] I went with GOOD wheels, the Oneway balancing system and their Turners/Wolverine jig system with the slide arms and cups that you lay the turning tool against while working the tool/wheel. Dead smooth after all of that, with Norton wheels, and way cheaper than a new Baldor set-up.
All of Van's info is good of course, your budget, and perhaps your marriage,, will dictate your choices. Part of the problem with the lower end grinders is that you can get a great batch of production, like I did, or you get poor product, like you and others did. If THAT's your main concern, you'd probably be better off with something higher end and more common quality control. I took a chance with the Grizzly, and got exactly what I wanted since the price and weight of their industrial units was , as Grizzly so puts it in their catalog," too much machine".
Now I wish I was at home so I could look up the model number of that Grinder I own......

[Matthew Bradburn]

I have the Delta 8" slow speed grinder, it runs smoothly, I'm happy with it. On a related but different topic, can anyone offer a hint as to how to remove the guards? (I'm a daredevil.) The outer halves come off easily, the inner parts made me think the shaft would have to be pressed out... Thanks In Advance!

[Prashun Patel]

Joshua-
I followed yr trials with yr grinder on a previous thread. I am new to grinding and turning, so take my comments with a grain of salt.

I own 2 grinders: a Skil 6" and a Delta Shopmaster 6" vs. Both were on clearance at Lowes and looked used badly. They have both been fine for me.

My grinding success has been more a function of the jigs and wheels than the unit or it's size.

The White Norton grinding wheel I have (6" x 3/4") started out very wobbly, but became 'reasonably' steady once trued up a little. I conclude that it's those bad plastic bushings they ship with the stone.

I am SURE the more expensive grinders are better in some respects, but I'd hate to see you spend more than you have to because you had a bad experience.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Joshua.

A couple years ago I stumbled across a Baldore 632E 1800RPM grinder that was a display model on clearance. I got it for about half price, IIRC. if you can get a Baldor for $400, go for it.

A point to consider....

Either 1800 or 3400 RPM will work just fine. Either speed will burn you tools if you do not keep your wheels properly dressed. Where did I learn this?, over at Wood Central from a machinist with over 30 years experience.

Second point. I had the One-way balancing system on my grinder for a couple years, and it worked well but was work to get the balance correct. With the help of Mr. Geiger, I saw the light. Buy two bushings, one for each wheel. The bushings will force the wheels to be concentric with the motor shaft, viola your vibration is all but gone. Finish the job by dressing the grinding wheels. This two step solution, bushings and dressing, is as good as or better than the One Way balancing system, IMO. (One way makes good equipment) . but the Geiger solution is simple, quick, and effective.

[Joe Bradshaw]

Joshua, I feel your pain. I started with one of the older Woodcraft grinders and lucked out and got one that ran true. It worked good for about 7 years until I started hearing a rumbling noise from a bearing. About the same time, Woodcraft came out with their new grinder. I bought one(what a POS). I returned it and tried several in the store and they all had vibration. I then purchased either a Delta or Porter-Cable variable speed 8'' grinder from Lowes. With new Norton wheels it worked great. Ken had the right idea about using steel bushings and truing the wheels. This grinder is now as smooth running as the Baldor that I went crazy and bought. Using steel bushings, good wheels and truing the wheels is the ticket. I have been having problems getting good Norton wheels. I replaced the bearings on my old Woodcraft grinder and it now runs smooth. I did have to grind some on the base to make it sit level. Orignally one side was almost an 1/8" higher. The manager of my local Woodcraft gave me one of the new Woodcraft grinders to play with. Woodcraft had told him to toss them, rather than return them to Woodcraft. I think with some new bearings and work on the base, this grinder will work well also. As always, YMMV.

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Joshua, I feel your pain. I started with one of the older Woodcraft grinders and lucked out and got one that ran true.

Yeah mine worked really pretty well until things just kind of "broke" overnight. It was so weird. One day to the next it went from good-enough to junk.

With new Norton wheels it worked great. Ken had the right idea about using steel bushings and truing the wheels. This grinder is now as smooth running as the Baldor that I went crazy and bought. Using steel bushings, good wheels and truing the wheels is the ticket.

I actually have 2 of these steel bushings. I bought them before the OneWay balancing system. The didn't work very well but that seems to be more about what is going on with the dieing slow speed grinder than what is going on when using the bushings. I will try them again and first when I get the new grinder or figure out how to fix my old one.

I have been having problems getting good Norton wheels.

So it isn't just me. What kind of problems were you seeing with the wheels you had? I need to find a way/place to get some better quality wheels. Is Norton's quality just suffering?

I replaced the bearings on my old Woodcraft grinder and it now runs smooth.

Now this is very interesting to me. I sent you a PM on this as well. I would love to know what the process/steps are for doing this in the older WC slow speed grinder. As this is what I have and I can't help but think that replacing these could put it back into proper operation for me. Would def be cheaper than buying a whole new grinder.

Thanks for the reply,
Joshua

[Joshua Dinerstein]

A couple years ago I stumbled across a Baldore 632E 1800RPM grinder that was a display model on clearance. I got it for about half price, IIRC. if you can get a Baldor for $400, go for it.

This was just based on an internet search so no price magic on my part. I have no connection to those selling any of these things, BTW, I just think that it is interesting how prices range or don't. For most part any Baldor price I see for the same unit is no more than about $40 from anyone elses.

Second point. I had the One-way balancing system on my grinder for a couple years, and it worked well but was work to get the balance correct. With the help of Mr. Geiger, I saw the light.

I have been talking to him a lot as well. It is just so interesting how mileage varies. I did the right hand wheel first and i have never seen a wheel run as smoothly as that one does. It was just staggering how true it spins with no load and no axial pressure from grinding. So I thought they were pretty darn magic. The wheel on the other side no matter what I do wobbles like a drunken sailor.

I have 2 of the good steel bushings that Don suggested to me. I have put one into use in place of the balancer. It works as well or better. But it is still pretty bad to the point of unusable. As both devices have issues it is clearly grinder. So I have turned my sights to working on that for the moment.

I really need to buy one of those Truing solutions.

Thanks for the Reply Ken!

Joshua