Tung Oil Finish?

[Byron Trantham]

I have a client that wants me to finish his Red Oak project with Tung Oil only. He has a bar that is finished with tung oil and re-applies it every few months. I bought some Formsby's today and see that it takes about a day a coat! Is this a good idea? I have never heard of using only Tung oil.

[Dave Gaul]

Oil only and Oil & wax only finishes are not unheard of, many like them.

I don't know if Tung Oil on Red Oak is good for the project, but I do know that Formsby's is NOT pure Tung Oil, if that is what the client wants. Formsby's is a varnish/oil blend that has some tung oil in it. You can get pure tung oil if that is what the client really wants...

[Charles Goodnight]

I have only done small things with pure tung oil. It gives a great finish, but its a lot of work and time. I think Formsby is mixed with solvents and dryers so it should be a lot less work.

Using original tung oil I would apply it with my bare hands, and rub it hard until my hands were very hot. After rubbing it in hard you let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off with a rag. It gives a beautiful deep satin look to the wood. I think that Formsby is different in that the oil is mixed with a solvent meaning you don't need to rub it as much -- it can be ragged on, and you should probably wear gloves. With pure tung oil you need to wait a full day or more between coats, it really can be a week before it starts behaving as if it was dry. So, yes, I would take the day between coats seriously.

As I said, the biggest thing I have ever done with tung oil is a plane tote, so I am not much of an authority.

[Lex Boegen]

I have a client that wants me to finish his Red Oak project with Tung Oil only. He has a bar that is finished with tung oil and re-applies it every few months. I bought some Formsby's today and see that it takes about a day a coat! Is this a good idea? I have never heard of using only Tung oil.

One problem with an oil finish on an open-pored wood is that oil will "weep" out of the pores for a while. You could use a grain filler to prevent that from happening. I used tung oil on a red oak bookcase and it wept for several days (at least--hard to remember because it was a long time ago) after the last application. The end result is nice--I like the subtle sheen it gives the wood and it doesn't feel "plastic" like some film-building finishes do.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I bought some Formsby's today and see that it takes about a day a coat!

Formby's Tung Oil Finish contains no real tung oil. It's a thinned soya/alkyd resin varnish. Read the front of the container carefully. It is claimed that it will give you the "look" of a real tung oil finish. If you want a real tung oil, look for a product that says "pure" or "100%" tung oil. Suspect any product calling itself "tung oil finish".

All that said, tung oil is bad choice for a finish. It has virtually no water or watervapor resistance. It has no resistance to chemicals and it needs very frequent reapplication to maintain an appearance.

Depending on the item--what is it by the way?--an oil/varnish mixture product may be a good choice. Make your own by mixing equal amounts of varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wipe on, let set and wipe dry until it stops bleeding back. Do the process again the next day. The addition of the varnish significantly improves the durability and protection of the finsih. It will still leave the "look and feel" of an oiled finish if that is what the customer wants. Bottom line, the customer may get what he wants but will not have to periodically reappply the finish as he is now doing with tung oil.

[Scott Holmes]

As Howie has already said... Formby's Tung Oil Finish is nothing but a HIGHLY
thinned alkyd resin/soya oil varnish. The only "tung oil" is printed on the label.

Formby's is a high quality wiping varnish; but is so expensive that it makes no sense to me to purchase it; when you can take any varnish and thin it to a wiping varnish by adding equal parts of varnish and mineral spirits.