Walnet And Ambroysa Maple Headboard

[Steve Kohn]

I just finished build a queen sized headboard. Next is to build two nightstands. So I have a little time before I need to finish.

My current plans are to spray (Fuji Q4 Pro) EM6000 on the piece. At least 3 coats.

Or is this a bad plan; and if so, why?

[Scott Holmes]

Waterborne finishes can look a bit pale (blue or washed out) on walnut. Especially if you are using a satin finish. You should test your entire finishing process on a piece of scrap sanded the same as your project. Do a piece at least 12x12 to get an idea of what it will look like on the larger headboard.

[Frederick Rowe]

Good advise from Scott - always go through entire finish schedule on test board. I've used EM6000 Semi-Gloss over Walnut with excellent results.
After first coat, give a light scuff sanding with grey abrasive pad to knock down any raised grain. Spray remaining coats. Follow directions for application, it is forgiving for those new to spray finishing. Look over Target Coatings Forum for additional information and other users experience/questions.

http://www.targetcoatings.com/forum/

[Jim Tobias]

+1 on good advice from Scott. I also agree with what he said about WB on walnut. I use the Target products and put EM6000 only on a small walnut frame. It did not pop the color/grain of the walnut to my liking(bland look). Since then, I always go through a longer process to get the look I am after. There are several ways you can go with this in terms of using all WB products or a combination. BUT, if you use a combination, don't rush it or you could have problems.
My preference in order:
- Danish Oil
- Zinnser spary(dewaxed) shellac as a barrier coat
- EM6000 or EM900 or whatever Target WB topcoat you want/need

On advice from Target, I have let the Danish oil dry a few days and then wipe it down with a 50/50 DNA/water combo to get any residue from the oil off and then gone directly to the EM6000. This method worked, but you have to wait longer for the oil product to cure and in most cases, I don;t have that uch patience. It is quicker to just coat with the Zinnser shellac and proceed.

Target also makes their own version of oil stain (WR4000). It is some type of hybrid linseed oil mix. I have used it with a transtint dye to get darker or different looks also. All of this stuff works out pretty good, BUT the one consistent is what everyone has said repeatedly... You should test your entire finish schedule on scrap to make sure it looks and acts like you want it to.

Jim

[Jim Becker]

Since I use water borne (EM6000) for top coats 98% of the time, I also suggest warming up the walnut before putting on the Target product. I generally do either just de-waxed shellac or oil followed by de-waxed shellac, depending on the particular project and the particular walnut. Test pieces get, well...test finished...before I decide on the particular schedule I'll use.

[Steve Kohn]

Well it looks like I shoud do a test board. One side with Danish Oil and dewaxed shellac then EM6000 and the other side with just the shellac and EM6000.

Thanks for the advice.