Fence post confusion

[Lee Schierer]

If you decide to use concrete be sure your post holes and the bottom of the concrete are below your frost line. Frost line in your area should be 42-48". You also want straight sided holes tapered holes where the top is wider than the bottom and no place where the concrete on top is wider than that under it. Both can lift a fence post right out of the ground with frost heave.

[Chris Padilla]

The post ties seem like an interesting proposition, do you use a 'setup post' attached to the tie to make sure the tie stays level while the concrete sets?

Pull strings to keep things lined up and a bubble vial ensures the ties stay coplanar as the concrete sets. Keep in mind we only had about 15-20 posts to deal with. It is all in your prep work before the concrete truck shows up.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Whatever method you use to set the post, stick about 2" of pea or drainage gravel in the bottom of the hole and set the post on top of that before filling and tamping the rest of the hole. The post needs to breathe at the ends to allow water to exit. The problem most people have with concrete is that it traps water at the base of the post, which will rot even PT lumber. Allowing water to get out of the bottom of the post greatly extends the lifetime.

[Jon van der Linden]

One basic thing about posts is that thicker is better, 6x6 has more than double the material of 4x4. Assuming an inch of decay on all sides a 6x6 leaves you with a 4x4, a 4x4 leaves you with a 2x2 and a broken fence.

A helpful guide to installing posts from a site that makes custom fences is here: http://www.prowellwoodworks.com/gate/postholes.htm
The guide addresses most of the questions in this thread.

[Willard Foster]

I did mine just as Rick Petit did.

Our fence has survived 10 Minnesota winters with no problem.

Bill