How to hold a circular saw

[Randall Clark]

John T.

I purchased a left-handed saw by accident, but found that I like it much better. I can see what I am cutting better, as you said. I thought I was just weird. (still may be in other crucial areas)

[Cesar Vega]

John T.

I purchased a left-handed saw by accident, but found that I like it much better. I can see what I am cutting better, as you said. I thought I was just weird. (still may be in other crucial areas)

That's what I say!
At homedepot it was just one expensive Dewalt model with the motor on the left side.
But I also think that would much easier to cut with a saw that way.

I'm trying to understand what's the logic in supposedly right-handed saws, about having the blade on the same side as your holding hand is.
(Just check the first video link).

As I said, it seems the only way to follow all manual rules about holding the saw will only works with cuts smaller than say, 30 inches at most, when you might not need to move your feet, depending on length of your arms and height.

Now, if you require to walk along to work and comply with the rule of using kneeling the larger side of the show on the holding piece, then, you will have to take your ""right-handed"" saw with your left hand and the auxiliary handle with the right hand.... or.... put your arms in a very ackward cross position... or.... just holding with the right hand, again like the dewalt guide video.

[Cesar Vega]

With the risk of reinventing some that already exists, I came out with a sort of jig to put on top of my bench work, so I don't worry about the cutoff piece falling down, nor the circular saw falling down toward my legs.

It will need several clamps, but the idea is here:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...5ecf93b23ffb46

And will only work for pieces no bigger than the top of the bench.

[Cesar Vega]

Cesar,
If at all possible, you should seek the hands-on advice of a trusted co-worker or friend. You probably know someone with experience... ask them for help.

In reading all the advice above it is obvious that the primary danger with a circular saw is kickback. So the main thing to keep in mind is to avoid kickback.

Thanks a lot for your comments.
I have a further question. I understand what a kickback is and why it happens, but what I don't know is exactly what is the behavior of the saw being kickbacked.
I mean, the saw direction is always from bottom to top. So in the case of a jam, the saw would be pushed backwards, but also, somehow like downwise... but I read people saying about the circular saw flying... that's what I don't get.

[Cesar Vega]

I am right handed and so when possible use my right hand (I may use two hands depending on position) if not, I'll use the left. I determine the hand based on the safest position to be in to make the cut. Generally if you are positioned awkwardly to make the cut, you are not setup right. Stop, correct the clumsiness factor and start again.

Perfect world; I use my right hand on the trigger, left on the forward grip, stand to the left of the saw and walk it along the cut.

And now, here is a girl showing how to correctly hold the saw, according to the manual:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2yCZf29fv4

Though, as I was complaining about, it only works for small cuts where you don't require to walk along the cut and it look very uncomfortable at the end of the cut anyway.

[Tom Rick]

Thanks a lot for your comments.
I have a further question. I understand what a kickback is and why it happens, but what I don't know is exactly what is the behavior of the saw being kickbacked.
I mean, the saw direction is always from bottom to top. So in the case of a jam, the saw would be pushed backwards, but also, somehow like downwise... but I read people saying about the circular saw flying... that's what I don't get.

A "Kickback" is the saw running backwards with the blade acting as a wheel to propel the saw back towards the operator. If you are still holding onto the saw- its motion in a kickback will be somewhat circular as the saw rotates around an axis defined by your grip on the handle for center. So in a weak hold, imagine the saw as having a dowel through the grip with the saw spinning around the dowel.

Try to always support the workpiece so the 'drop' falls clear and does not pinch the blade.

I mostly cut with one hand and never worked with any framers who insisted on a two hand hold of a circular saw. Just keep in mind what will/can happen to the tool if the blade binds and be prepared for a kickback. With my old 13amp sawcat I could over power the kickback in any normal sawing position. If doing off position work be very aware of how the saw can move if you do not have a good muscle group to control the tool.

Much like any other portable power tool- the skill saw requires muscle to counter its tendency to have to tools force move the tool away from the workpiece instead of through it.
Any weak wrist position if very dangerous for drills and skill saws... With ANY portable power tool- be aware of how the tool will move if it binds and be prepared to counter that force with your muscles.

Strong- 'normal' sawhorse cutting: bent elbow push cutting with tool level.
Weak- tool level but cutting across in front of the operator. If the tool binds it will twist the wrist and may swing fast enough to cause injury if any body parts are in the way.

[Conrad Fiore]

I may have missed it, but I didn't see this mentioned. The platten of the circular saw is used just like the blade height adjustment of a table saw. Make sure you adjust the platten so that only a tooth protudes below the material being cut. You don't want more saw blade exposed than is needed to cut through the thickness of material being cut.

[Don Alexander]

anybody who uses a CS without having a pretty firm grip on it is playing with less than a full deck

as with any other sharp powered spinning thing your brain is your best, and most important, safety device ........ ALWAYS put your brain in gear BEFORE using any power tool ....... if what you are going to do seems really risky it most likely is ; stop and find a better way to do what needs done

[John Toigo]

I belive the design of the 'right hand' saw was to keep the blade as far away from your body as possible. I still like the lefty. So much in fact that I have three of them. But then.... I have multiples of everything.

[David Prince]

You cannot go into a cut being scared. Respect the saw, but being frozen with fear can cause you to be so tense that the saw will fight you if you have a bind.

I know my right hand isn't going to be cut off as long as I am holding the trigger. My left hand is normally far enough out of the way (most of the time). Standing up is the normal position. Standing behind to the left would allow the saw to drop and fall to the right should there be an issue and would therefore fall clear from your legs.

A two handed cut isn't normally a comfortable position nor practical (usually).

If you bind, let off the trigger and hold the saw in place until it winds to a stop. If you cannot hold the saw straight out with your own muscle, then it is too big for you. Find something smaller. There are times when the saw is gonna buck. You have to be able to ride it out or hold on long enough to let it wind down. Letting go and running away at that very moment is not an option!

A regular circular saw is a baby pup compared to a worm drive. Now that is a pitbull! But, my experience with a worm drive is that it has a hard time binding because it chews through just about anything.

A sharp blade helps a lot also.

Remember, respect the saw, but don't be afraid of it!

[Rick Markham]

Cesar, as said before, adjust the height of the platten so that the teeth are just protruding below the surface of what you are cutting. It will reduce tear out (ragged edges) so always cut the "finished side" (the side of material that people will see face down. If you take the time to adjust the platten to the right height, you can solve most of your worries for managing the workpiece by building a simple cutting table. If fits across two saw horses, breaks down for easy storage. and you can support the cutoff piece and the workpiece. It takes less than an hour to make, and will save you tons of headaches and backaches from sitting on the ground.
Here is mine:


The most important thing to remember if something doesn't "feel right" or doesn't "seem right" or might be "dangerous" don't do it. Take a few minutes and figure out a better way to cut something. Don't take shortcuts to "save time" and put the saw down and take a break if you are tired or frustrated by something. If you pay attention, you will be safe. If you don't your risking your safety

Certainly DO NOT, do what some "stupid people" do and cut something supported across your leg... it sounds ridiculous but some people think it is ok to do this, until they do their leg in.

Take your time, build the cutting table (it will give you a good chance to get familiar and more comfortable with the saw) and happy woodworking! Don't be scared of it, just be smart about it and take your time and learn your tool

[Robert Boyd]

I agree with Rick.

The most important thing before turning the saw on is to make sure everything is properly supported including the cutoff piece.

I think most of the accidents happen when you try to hold the saw with one hand and hold the cutoff piece in the other hand as you're making the cut.

Rob

[Richard Gonzalez]

The cutting table shown above is a great idea, but if you are just starting out and not sure how to make one, an easier approach is to buy a 4 by 8 sheet of foam 1-1/5 to 2 inches thick (they have it at home depot, lowes, menards, etc). Should cost less than $20. Lay it on the ground. It will fully support both sides of whatever you are cutting (plywood, 2x4 etc.). Let the blade cut into the foam - it will last for a long time. You can put your weight on one side of the cut, the other will not fall when you cut.

Try to get the foam that is not composed of little white pellets - the blue stuff is great.

If you want to get off the ground, lay a full sheet of plywood across some 2x4s resting on sawhorses (to keep the plywood from sagging) and use the foam on top. Then whatever you are cutting goes on top of the foam.

[Chris Brault]

Cesar, you should try to find somebody experienced to show you some techniques. And i also agree about being "tense" with the saw. If you are afraid or not sure about a certain type of cut, don't do it. I had experienced carpenters helping me when i first started running them. Then, after awhile, you get less tense and more comfortable. Always get a good grip on the saw, before you hit the trigger.

[Marty Paulus]

Cesar, The first video shows the guy using a track saw. While yes it is technically a side winder circular saw you cannot compare his technique to what you will use. Yes he changes position but the track keeps the saw in line. It is not easy to do this with a regular saw. The second thing I noticed is he is using the foam sheet under the cut like someone else mentions. That is an idea I haven’t used yet but makes sense in that the offal doesn’t fall away or otherwise move when the cut is complete. That way you can keep your hands on the saw and your fingers away from the blade.

The second video is a variation on the track saw. What is important to see with both videos is the saw is running on a guide. The person is not ‘free-handing’ the saw for a cut. When the saw is guided it is more difficult to twist the saw and cause the kick back.

The third video is not bad for a beginner. However the only issue I see is that he does not adjust the blade depth. Of course that is a debate on this board as well. If you are using the foam insulation then you almost have to keep the blade depth very shallow so as not cut through the insulation. Also the second video shows the use of saw horses with sacrificial tops. Again the blade depth was set to just clear the bottom of the board. With the saw horses it is important if you are using metal horses. They make a lot of noise and a mess if you try to cut into them with a wood saw.

As is stated the saw is no more dangerous than any other saw. The first two videos show that the use of a guide is very helpful. If you are careful you will not have any problems.