Bowl gouge recomendations - Packard?

[Barry Elder]

In response to your question about Packard 2060 gouges, they are good gouges. There are many companies making good gouges. I prefer the Thompson gouges because they come ready to use, except that you will have to make or purchase a handle. If you have the money to spend for a "name brand" tool, try one or two. But you must be confident in your ability to sharpen whatever tools you use. A dull tool will wear you out and you will spend hours sanding the surface left by a dull tool.

[Reed Gray]

I think the biggest difference in the cheap tools, and the expensive tools is consistency. With the more expensive tools, you will get the same thing every time, while with the cheaper tools, quality can vary a lot. That being said, I prefer the Thompson tools. In part because you are buying from the guy who makes them, not from a vendor who buys from some one else. This keeps the price down. The steel is excellent quality, none better. The edge holding quality is the best I have found, though I still use a freshly ground tool for the finish cuts. You do have to make or buy your handles. I prefer straight wood cylinders, no bumps or humps. Tool review would come out winner in best tool, and best value.

robo hippy

[George Guadiane]

A word on how long a tool lasts: When I am teaching someone to use the bowl gouge, I will first show them how to sharpen. Then once they start turning, I tell them that I want them to concentrate on turning and I'll do the sharpening. I hand them a freshly sharpened gouge at fairly frequent intervals then, once they are used to the routine, I hand them a gouge that was not re-sharpened. I don't think I've ever done this without the student responding immediately saying: "I think this tool is dull.". This teaches them to recognize the difference between and dull and a sharp tool and importance of using a sharp tool.

Don't make yourself get used to using dull tools. You will enjoy the turning process much more and will get better results with sharp tools!!! It takes me about 10 to 15 seconds to refresh the edge on a bowl gouge. This is time well spent.


Sincerely,
Don Geiger

BRILLIANT way to demonstrate the importance of sharp tools to anyone, especially new turners... May I steal it?

[Kim Ford]

Many very good comments. IMHO Thompson's tools are first rate and very reasonable in price for the quality. I have others that are more expensive but none that perform any better.

[Don Geiger]

Yes- of course you can.


Don Geiger

BRILLIANT way to demonstrate the importance of sharp tools to anyone, especially new turners... May I steal it?

[Ralph Lindberg]

I own of full set of BB bowl gouges and think they were worth every penny I paid. They are a great gouge to learn to sharpen with, cause the steel is cheaper then the "big" name brands.

After you know what you are doing, buy some of the high-end, you will find you sharpen less

Now, here is a sleeper... A couple years back Alan Lacer bought some BB gouges from Penn State and more BB gouges from a firm on eBay

The ones from Penn State were HSS, the ones from the un-named eBay vendor were not.

They were all marked Benjamin's Best, and HSS, but they were not.

Another thing I learned from a talk with Alan last summer, there is a "un-named" firm (mid/low tier) that was selling chisels marked as HSS, they were not. When contacted the Firm admited that they had tested the prototype chisels from their new (Chinese) source, but had not tested the production run. Turns on their source was shipping them chisels, that while marked as HSS, didn't make the grade.

[Thom Sturgill]

Depending on whether or not you count the cost of making (or buying) a handle the Thompson might be less expensive. Both are excellent tools, and I own some from both sources. I am pretty sure that Packard's are made by Hamlet (an English manufacturer, although the tools may come from China). my 'go to' bowl gouges are my Thompson 'Jimmy Clewes' V gouges and an Ellsworth.

[Tim Rinehart]

I own of full set of BB bowl gouges and think they were worth every penny I paid. They are a great gouge to learn to sharpen with, cause the steel is cheaper then the "big" name brands.

After you know what you are doing, buy some of the high-end, you will find you sharpen less

Now, here is a sleeper... A couple years back Alan Lacer bought some BB gouges from Penn State and more BB gouges from a firm on eBay

The ones from Penn State were HSS, the ones from the un-named eBay vendor were not.

They were all marked Benjamin's Best, and HSS, but they were not.

Another thing I learned from a talk with Alan last summer, there is a "un-named" firm (mid/low tier) that was selling chisels marked as HSS, they were not. When contacted the Firm admited that they had tested the prototype chisels from their new (Chinese) source, but had not tested the production run. Turns on their source was shipping them chisels, that while marked as HSS, didn't make the grade.

I also have found inconsistencies with BB gouges I've bought. My first 3/8 BB gouge was part of a set and I loved it, and still do...though it has limited life remaining I've used it so much over the past 2 years. I went to replace it with what should have been same exact tool...and it wasn't. Depth of grind different, edge holding different...not terrible...just noticeably different.

I have a 5/8"-V Thompson gouge now that I just recently got, and it is my new 'go-to' of several 5/8" gouges I have. As has been said, alot is to be said for the consistency offered by someone like Doug. My next gouges will surely be Thompson's.

I suspect Doug may be getting a big head with all the accolades, but when someone delivers customers value and consistency as he has shown, the praise is well deserved. Sure wish he'd go public with an IPO...on second thought, I think it's best it stay completely in Doug's control!

[Prashun Patel]

Boy, what a resource this forum is!

So, Thompson it is.

Next question: U or V flute?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Prashun,

IIRC....if you go to Doug's website, he explains the advantages of the two types of flutes.

The key thing to pickup here though.....better steel may stay sharper longer....but using a sharp tool with a consistant grind is one major key to improving your turning skills.

[David E Keller]

Boy, what a resource this forum is!

So, Thompson it is.

Next question: U or V flute?

I like the V, but to each his/her own. I use a U sometimes as well, but I prefer the V.

[George Guadiane]

I like the V, but to each his/her own. I use a U sometimes as well, but I prefer the V.

And I like the "U", but have (and use) both in the largest size. I also like the old grind, but Doug doesn't offer that grind (yet) and I don't want to waste the steel resharpening one once it's ground.

[Kim Ford]

I don't think you can go wrong with either the U or V. I have both and use both and over the years have come to grind each differently because I have developed my preferences.

The big thing here is to get a useable grind on the tool, keep it sharp and then put on the mileage.

Just an interesting calculation: An 8" cylinder spinning 800 rpm travels 3.17 miles in ten minutes.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Boy, what a resource this forum is!

So, Thompson it is.

Next question: U or V flute?

Smart move; Doug's tools are not only some of the best overall, but by far best bang for the buck at half the price of your big name gouges in many instances.

I have a 1/2" Thomspon U, but my next will be his V. I have a couple Sorby 5/8" v flutes and I like the V flute better in most instances. It isn't exactly the same as Doug's but close. I like the geometry of the wing that you get with the V flute and it just seems more controllable and versatile. But since you are saving money, buy one of each!

As for the size, if you are turning any bowls above 10" on a regular basis I would consider a 5/8 gouge. I really like the heft and you can hog off a lot of wood. I have a 3/8 BB bowl gouge and I just don't use it unless I'm turing something small or in a tight area. In that case I would actually consider the chape BB for limited use and spend the money on a Thompson 1/2 or 5/8 V.

[Neil Strong]

Most people prefer the 'V' flute profile now.

The 'V' lends itself to a more swept back edge profile.

The 'V' gouge is also a more versatile gouge IMO, so if you only have one gouge in a particular size then the 'V' is the way to go.

Some turners like the 'U' for rapid hogging out, especially on green wood. They say that they are less prone to clogging.

Some long time turners that used the older 'U' profile, when that was all that was available, still prefer them.

I keep one of my original P&N 'U' profile gouges, with a traditional grind, for occasionally doing the final cut across the inside bottom of a bowl. They excel at that. Otherwise I'm 'V's (of various catenary profiles) all the way.

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