Tips for evaluating this jointer

[Chris Strizver]

Hi all.

I'm going to go look at this jointer tomorrow: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/tls/2017559665.html

I'm looking for any tips on specific things to check and how to check them. It looks shiny enough from the pictures. If it checks out, hopefully I can get it for $200 since the new ones are under $400.

Thanks for any tips.

[Rich Neighbarger]

Give it a good once over, motor turns on and doesn't sound funny. Everything moves that is supposed to, nothing looks abused that isn't easily repaired. Looks like quite a bargan, good luck.

[glenn bradley]

Looks like a clean old machine. My G0490X is a decades-old design. The basic things that make a good jointer haven't changed over time. The only gotcha (other than being a 6") that can turn into a real pain on a dovetail way machine is tables that are out of true. Take a straight edge and give a quick check to the fence and tables. If the tables can be brought level with each other and check out as co-planer, all you have to do is take it home and start using it. If they require adjustment, the effort to correct them required varies with the severity. It looks like a well taken care of older tool and is probably ready to rock.

[Jon van der Linden]

The other important thing to check is if it can joint straight or can be adjusted to do so. Joint two lengths of wood and check them against each other for flatness. They should be either absolutely flat or slightly concave (by slight I mean a few thousandths at most).

[Stephen Cherry]

The other important thing to check is if it can joint straight or can be adjusted to do so. Joint two lengths of wood and check them against each other for flatness. They should be either absolutely flat or slightly concave (by slight I mean a few thousandths at most).

This is absolutely the test of a jointer, but it assumes that the machine is set up right. The outfeed table needs to be exactly the height of the blades, of vice versa. I do this with a Wixey digital height gauge, and install the blades at .000 (it takes a little time, but once you get the hang of it, not too much).

A quick test would be to use a straitedge.

Here is a good video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...9096587014177#

[Chris Strizver]

Thanks for the tips. I also found this: http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html

I've come to realize that I don't have the proper tools to do a proper evaluation. No high quality straight edges, squares, or gauges. The woodworker show is coming to Portland in a couple of weeks, so hopefully I'll be able to remedy this at the show for a reasonable price.

[Stephen Cherry]

Thanks for the tips. I also found this: http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html

I've come to realize that I don't have the proper tools to do a proper evaluation. No high quality straight edges, squares, or gauges. The woodworker show is coming to Portland in a couple of weeks, so hopefully I'll be able to remedy this at the show for a reasonable price.

Fortunately, these days you get a lot of bang for the buck. As I posted earlier, I like the Wixey digital height gauge, but for calipers I wouldn't count out harbor freight.

One thing everybody needs is at least one good combination square, not cheap, but a lifetime investment (Starrett).

[C Scott McDonald]

I own a 6" Jointer an would really urge you to look for an 8" jointer.

[Dan Karachio]

I think I might agree on the 8", but $200 is a deal. The Wood Whisperer has an extensive video on setting up any jointer. It can be a pain, but once done, you are rocking.

[Chris Strizver]

I own a 6" Jointer an would really urge you to look for an 8" jointer.

I agree. However, the need is now, permission from the misses granted now, and assuming I can pick this one up for $200 and it is good working condition, I should be able to upgrade later without losing too much and on my own timing.

Given my lack of precision tools, I'll just have to eyeball it.