Staircase reno - noob alert!

[Darren Marcotte]

Hey guys. I've got a little issue with a staircase reno that I can't figure out. I'm re-facing the old staircase in my 100 year old home, and because they were only bare lumber for so many years, the treads are very worn. I've screwed down the risers to eliminate all the squeaks, and I'm afraid that when I put the oak treads over the old treads they will wobble and/or squeak again. Is there a way to lay down a flexible float-coat of some kind after installing the new risers to level it out a bit? Thanks.

Darren

[Rick Mathison]

I would like to first ask why you don't replace the existing treads with new ones? Adding new treads on top of the old ones will change the unit rise on your bottom an top steps causing them to become a trip or fall hazzard. By code all steps in a given stairway need to be within 1/4" of each other (personally I believe that a 1/4" is too much). If you are dead set on just adding new ones over the old ones you could install red rosin paper between the two to stop the squeeking. As far as leveling them out and filling the voids is concerned, I recommend that you visist your local flooring store and purchase some leveling compound.

Rick

[Darren Marcotte]

I'm just not sure how I would do that... the stairway is against a block wall on one side and walled in on the other. How would I get the treads out, or nail new ones in?

[Thomas Williams]

I'm with Rick on this one. You need to remove the old treads and then replace them. Before you start work, hit the library for some books of at least a Google search for some articles. Good luck.

[John R Green]

-If you don't do this right, you'll have another opportunity to fix it.
-Can you provide pic's?
-Do you have access to underside of stairs?
-Block in a 100 yr old house?
-Remove the treads.
-Inspect the stingers... if loose glue & screw
-If installing new treads and risers over existing stringers and you have
access to underside, use pocket screws & glue..start at the bottom.
-Glue & screw everthing. If glue is not oozing out, you're not using
enough.
-Will new treads be stained or painted?
-Will new tread be covered with carpet?

[Eiji Fuller]

Maybe hire a stair builder?

[Andrew Nemeth]

Darren,

First of all, welcome to the creek! I know some of the responses have been a little vague but I can almost guarantee you will get some useful information from this forum. A few pictures of your situation may help people offer you more specific suggestions.

There are legitimate issues with overlaying newtreads, especially full thickness treads, over existing treads. The rise of each tread will change and you will end up with a tall step at the bottom and a short step at the top. This is a safety hazard. There are a couple of options to consider. If you are laying new flooring upstairs and downstairs, assuming it is 3/4" hardwood flooring, you could use treads that are rebated on the underside to only I increase the rise by the same 3/4" flooring being used. In this situation the rise of each step would remain the same as it already is. There are also products designed to "slip" over the existing treads essentially laminating a 1/4" veneer over the top and roundover of the tread. IIRC the instructions included spreading a thinset or floor leveler on each tread with a notched trowel before securing the new tread face. I have not used these products before, so I cannot comment on their durability, but it looked intriguing if it would really hold up. Honestly though, I have my doubts. These products and instalation instructions should be available at a hardwood floor supplier. These systems will add about 1/4" to each rise which may be acceptable to you. Now, if it were me, I would totally replace the treads. If someone installed them, someone can un-install them. You may need to remove a lot of trim to get a clear shot at them. Checking out a book from the library on finish trim and stairbuilding may provide useful in being able to understand what you are up against.

Good luck with you project,
Andrew

[Darren Marcotte]

Hey guys, thanks for all your responses - they are much appreciated! Just to clarify things a little, I am also installing new flooring both on the landing at the bottom of the stairs and the floor at the top, so there will be zero difference in stair height. Also, the house WAS built about 90+ years ago, but was moved to this block foundation later.
I guess I simply wanted an easy way to level an uneven tread for a better installation of a new flooring type. I would want to do the same thing even if I was only re-installing carpet, as the uneven worn treads would just pick at me. I think that the stairs were left unfinished for many years, so they have those two worn areas at the front of the treads where many feet walked - not the best surface to slap flat hardwood onto. I will look at what kind of levelling compound products they have for this purpose, and go from there.
Again, thanks for your replies.

Darren

[Tom Hammond]

If the treads aren't split or are repairably split you can do what I did, which is do necessary repair and flip the treads over. I was able to clean up the oak treads I had, and the results were more than acceptable.

[Andrew Nemeth]

Darren,

Here is what I would do. Cut all the old treads flush with the old risers. If the risers are really beat up you can laminate new "faux" risers to the oldones at this point. Place shims on the old treads on top of each stringer to provide a level and planer surface for you new treads. I would glue all shims with construction adhesive to prevent squeaks. The minimum shim on each tread should be 1/4" if you are using 3/4" flooring at the top the stairs and at your landing (minimum shim of 1/8" if using 5/8", shim to nothing if using 1/2" flooring). Before installing remodel treads (they should be 1/2" in the body with 1" at the )nose) I would put generous globs of construction adhesive every 4-6" across the entire old tread and on top of shims. Unless you have installed new risers, you may need to use a wider scribe under each nose to completely cover the edge of the old treads.

I hope this all made sense,
Good luck,
Andrew