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Thread: Roll you own band saw blades

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Spring City, TN
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    Roll you own band saw blades

    Does anyone make thier own band saw blades? I have a Laguna 14 suv and they use odd ball sized blades at a 125". The company is yet to get an order right, so I'd like to just break free of them and make my own. How do you go about it and is it worth it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Near Pike’s Peak, at 8800’
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    130
    My Steel City 16" also uses 125" blades. The only place I have found them pre-made was at tool king in Denver (Steel City brand).

    Any of the online blade suppliers have no problem making blades to custom lengths. Try Spectrum Supply - the Lenox bimetal are a good blend of price vs. life. There are lots of posts here on bandsaw blades and suppliers for other recommendations.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,896
    Suffolkmachinery.com will provide you with their Timberwolf blades to exact size.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
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    7,628
    There is a Wiki on owwm about making your own.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Redford, MI
    Posts
    155
    I picked up a Jet 110volt bandsaw blade welder from a guy on Craigslist earlier this year. Guy said he bought it at an auction long ago and could never figure out how to get it to work, or get it to work very well.

    Came with 2 coils of blade stock - 1/4" 4 tpi for wood, and 3/8" 18tpi for metal.

    A bit of practicing, and I've got it down pretty well. I've made 3-4 each for my 14" wood cutting bandsaw and a few for my metal cutting horizontal/vertical bandsaw.

    Kind of cool rolling your own. This welder is still a current model and retails for about $550. I paid $40 for everything!

    Harbor freight sells them as well for about $250 I think, but those don't include the light or built-in grinding wheel.

    The other two methods I've heard about is silver soldering/brazing and HF also makes a DC unit that hooks up to a car battery that some folks have had success with.

    JT

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    I send all my lenox blades that need welded up to:

    Sanders Tools & Supplies Inc
    1506 West Luthy Drive
    Peoria, IL 61615-1603
    (309) 692-2666


    Call and ask for Dave Ehrb. I bet they will do others. Probably only woth it for a decent blade you might have.

    Otherwise there are brazing kits for sale at rockler I believe. Do a seach on brazing bandsaw blades on youtube.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hood Canal, Washington
    Posts
    1,039
    These guys have excellent pricing and will make Lenox bands to any size. For instance, a 125" x .025 3H blade is $13.25. I have used their blades a bunch and have no complaints. The welds have always been near perfect.

    http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm
    Last edited by david brum; 11-01-2010 at 12:40 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Saskatoon Saskatchewan
    Posts
    212
    You need a brazer, sometimes found on large metal bandsaws or as a free standing unit. Here's my Foley, I'm pretty sure I paid less than $10 for it at auction, because no one else knew what it was.



    Here's the simpler version, sold by Lee Valley.

    It is worth it, especially if you can by a coil at discount, at auction or eBay, or if you break blades on the weekend.
    Darnell

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Birmingham, Alabama
    Posts
    175
    I have a DoAll DBW-18 blade welder that I use. This welder will will weld up to 1" wide blades. Like most welders it includes a shear and a grinder. I picked this welder up at a plant closing several years ago.

    I weld three different lengths for my 2 wood saws and my metal cutoff saw. I buy coils of blade as surplus and the prices can be scary cheap. I tend to stick to metal cutting blades for everything.

    The best blade I have found for general heavy cutting is a Starret Bi-Metal. The last 1/2" 3TPI Hook Tooth coil I bought cost about $20 for a 100ft coil that was more likely 85ft. Welding takes less that 5 minutes. You shear to length +1/8", set welder parameters, clamp blade, back off clamps to establish welding gap, press lever to drive blade ends together, reclamp, anneal and grind the flash down flush.

    If the parameters are set correctly you get a perfect weld everytime. Grinding requires some experience but there is a guide gauge on the weld to check the grinding when you finish.

    gary
    Last edited by Gary Click; 11-01-2010 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Stoopid Fangers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Holderness, NH
    Posts
    87
    I think silver soldering the blades is the easiest and least expensive way to do it. It does take a bit of practice. The silver soldered joint is very strong. I rarely experience a break at my soldered joint.

    You will need:
    1) medium hardness silver solder.
    2) borax flux
    3) a berzomatic propane torch (the hotter the better)
    4) some 300 or so grit sand paper and a grinding wheel
    5) a holding jig that I made up from some steel angle.

    I will post some photos in the next couple days.
    Last edited by John Messinger; 11-02-2010 at 1:25 AM.
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  11. #11
    i have silver soldered my blades for 50 years with minimal breaks in the joint. just a simple little jig that you can make , a little flux or borax and silver flow 45. the secret to silver soulder is a beveled edge and clean clean mtl

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