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Craftsman Bandsaw Motor Problem - Model 22401
My bandsaw won't run.The motor capacitor or something else connected with the motor went out on my 14" Craftsman bandsaw (Model #22401) and I'm not sure how to repair it. Since it will be needed soon I will have to get it repaired. I know that there are several others here on SMC with the same saw. Has anyone else experienced issues with the motor on their bandsaw?
Other than that I found the saw adequate for the jobs I asked it to do.
If the motor just hums when you turn the switch on it is likely the capacitor has failed. They are less than $20. Take your motor to a local motor repair shop. They can test it and the capacitor. If you can open the guard and spin the lower wheel with the blade off and the motor runs, it is definitely the capacitor.
If you don't hear anything when you turn on the switch, check the circuit with a voltmeter. You may also want to check the on/off switch as that may have failed. Sometimes the plugs fail if you pull them out by the cord.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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Lee, thanks for the information. You are correct, the capacitor has failed. Now I need to find a place that sells large capacitors. According to the Sears parts list for this saw the motor/capacitor assembly is all one part.
Anyone have any ideas where to start to find a capacitor for this saw. At least the numbers on the old one are all visible so I have the information I need. Unfortunately my father's knowledge in electronics wasn't something I ever understood.
Member
If the motor hums but doesn't start it could be the capacitor or it could be the centrifugal switch inside the motor. If the switch sticks and doesn't re-connect the capacitor when the motor shuts off it will prevent the motor from starting next time. It's quite easy to repair these, as more often than not it is binding on the motor shaft and needs cleaning and lubrication.
To fix it:
1. Remove the motor from the saw.
2. Remove the 4 long bolts that hold the ends of the motor on.
3. Use a screwdriver and a mallet to separate the back end of the motor from the center section. A few taps are all it should take.
4. Pull the motor end cover back carefully, being very careful not to damage the wiring or mis-place the large shim washers that position the motor bearing.
5. Inside the motor around the shaft you should find a plastic ring and a spring/weight assembly. You should be able to push this plastic ring toward the center of the motor and have it return when you release the pressure. Any dirt or debris on the shaft where the plastic piece slides will cause problems. Clean this area and apply a very thin film of lubricating oil to this part of the shaft.
6. The switch assembly is located inside the end of the motor. The switch contacts need to be clean and touching together with the motor in this configuration. Check to see that they are touching together.
7. Re-assemble the motor being careful not to mis-position the bearing spacer washers or pinch the wires.
8. Install the 4 long bolts and tighten them.
9. Plug in and turn on the motor to be sure that it works correctly. Turn it on and then off, each time letting it reach full speed. While it is off and slowing down, listen for the click of the centrifugal switch closing.
10. Re-install the motor in the saw.
If you need a capacitor or help in repairing the motor, find a motor repair/rewinding shop in the Yellow Pages. They will help you at a price that's likely much lower than Sears.
Member
I got my last motor capacitor at Grainger.
They will ask you what size it is in microfarads. This should be on the cap, abbreviated "ufd." (The first letter is not a "U", it's actually a micro symbol).
Please let us know when you have it fixed.
Bill
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Charles, The capacitor is literally fried. Hopefully that wasn't caused by the motor or the centrifugal switch. I appreciate your detailed instructions. If installing a new capacitor works I won't need them. I'm going to replace the capacitor first (if I can find one that will fit) first and see what happens.Originally Posted by Charles Lent
Anyone would be cheaper than Sears! The bill to repair the bandsaw would have been close to $400. I only paid $429 for the saw.
Bill, thanks for the information. I just discovered that we have Grainger "branches" in Southern California. There is one fairly close to me. I'll give them a call tomorrow. I'll sure let you know if I get the saw running.
No, I'm not very happy with Sears or Craftsman Tools and I won't be buying anymore of their stationary power tools. It's too bad because this saw does most of the jobs I need a bandsaw for. Sure, I "should have" bought a Grizzly or Powermatic or Jet or ... but I didn't have the money then. Now that I'm retired I have even less. I was hoping to be able to save some money so I could "afford" a second bandsaw for resawing, but I may end up having to replace the one I have. Just the motor/capacitor unit is about $200 from their parts warehouse when a capacitor would cost me less than $20. It's ridiculous.
Contributor
I don't know about Grainger in CA. but the one near me only sells to businesses. They didn't check to see how large the "business" was or if it really existed. If they ask, You might tell 'em something like Bullock Enterprises and pay cash if they'll let you. If Grainger gives you grief, McMaster-Carr sells capacitors as well though that's likely mail order.
Member
How about bringing it to the sears repair center? It may cost you about $100. Still cheaper than getting a new motor.
Member
If you are sure that the capacitor is fried, you have likely seen telltale evidence
of the "frying", so you will need a new capacitor. There is a size rating on the side of it that should be a number followed by "MFD" plus a voltage rating followed by VAC. You will need both of these to get the right replacement capacitor. Also make sure that the replacement is the same physical size or you won't be able to get it into the metal can on the side of the motor. If it will fit and is the same electrical size you are good to go. Replace the capacitor and see if that cures your problem. If not, use my directions to service the centrifugal switch. Be sure to make several short test cycles before putting it back into service. A capacitor for that size motor should not cost more than $20 and will likely be less from the right source. A motor repair shop or an industrial supplier like Grainger will be the best source, but the motor shop usually charges less.
Charley
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Thomas, the official reply from Sears is that they only have the motor with capacitor attached for about $200. They will not install the capacitor by itself nor do they stock it separately. It's all or nothing and at that price I'm having to look elsewhere.
Charles, the capacitor is definitely melted at the end where the two wires come out. Fortunately the numbers are all visible. Today I spent several hours searching the Internet for a replacement, but haven't found one the "right" size as you suggested. I may have to buy a larger one that I have found and make an enclosure for it out of PVC pipe and attach it to the plastic box that is supposed to house the capacitor. Right now that seems to be my best option, but I'm waiting for some replies from some other companies.
Member
The capacitor size in MFD can vary slightly, like plus or minus about 15% of the rating. The voltage rating can be higher on the replacement, but not lower than the original. Make sure what you find is rated for AC voltage (VAC) and not for DC. I'm sure that you can find on in the right physical size if you go to a motor repair shop. There are motor shops in most of the larger cities. Look in the Yellow Pages for one near you. Take the old capacitor with you and they'll find you one that will work.
Charley
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Charley, thanks for the information on voltage. That's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure. I'll check for motor repair shops. There are some industrial businesses fairly close to me though I do live in a rural area.
Contributor
If you have to go the mail order route, McMaster-Carr has a reputation for pretty quick shipping. For me in S.E. PA. it's overnight paying regular (reasonable) shipping rates
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/937/=9p66ar
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Curt, thanks for the link. I had already contacted McMaster-Carr and they informed me that they didn't have one that fit my needs. Their capacitors stop at 440 Volt AC and the dimensions are too big for the space. Perhaps I could get by with the 440 VAC instead of 450, but the size is too big. I also struck out at Grainger.
Like I said in another post this is my best option so far:
I have found a company with a capacitor with the right specs that's longer than the box on the saw motor. I'm sure that that I can use some PVC pipe to either extend the box or just mount a whole new enclosure for the capacitor on top of the box.I may have to buy a larger one that I have found and make an enclosure for it out of PVC pipe and attach it to the plastic box that is supposed to house the capacitor. Right now that seems to be my best option, but I'm waiting for some replies from some other companies.
Right now I'm waiting for a reply from someone on eBay that sells capacitors who claims he has one with the right specs and size. I haven't had time to explore the motor repair shops yet. I'll do that next week.
This whole situation is very frustrating. If I had a Grizzly, for example, we wouldn't be having this discussion. Their service reps even searched their stock to see if they could find a capacitor that would fit my Craftsman bandsaw. I see a Grizzly bandsaw in my future.
Just for clarification, we all know Sears doesn't make that saw, right?
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