Why get a router lift?

[Adam Shapiro]

I've used a PC890 with a mounted fixed table base and an extra plunge base for a couple years. Now I'm looking at the Freud in Woodcraft's black friday deal so I can just mount that and have the PC890 to use as a handheld. Buying that would mean getting a new router plate as well, which got me looking at router lifts instead (this is a vicious cycle...).

This is all a long background to get to my real question - why buy a router lift if all of these routers come with above the table height adjustment and bit changes? A lot of people seem to be spending $300 on these things, so I figure there must be a reason. But since I've never used one, I'm hoping somebody can educate me. What am I missing?

[Mike Ashton]

My old setup was just the Milwaukee 5625-20 fixed base mounted to a plate. Worked for a long time, but then decided to try the benchdog lift and CI table mounted to my unisaw. The height adjustment is extremely smooth and accurate and can be locked in very easily. I did it for convenience and accuracy, but then again I push my router table a bit far and should probably be looking using a shaper. I have friends that have used it and said it feels so solid it actually reminds them of their shaper. With this setup and a few carefully taken passes, I've made 4" crown from red oak without issue and am very happy with the results.

The other perk (at least for me) is if I'm routing wood that burns easily, I can take my initial pass and then accurately and quickly adjust the bit up 1/64th for a final pass to remove any burns. This may be something more related to my technique (beginner), but it helps nonetheless.

[Gary Pennington]

I have a Freud 1702 mounted in a table using the built in lift/lower capability. Features I really like are the built in spindle lock and above the table bit changes. Height adjustment isn't so precise. For me as a hacker/hobbiest it is just fine though fine adjustments can be a pain. Just last week I struggled to get the height set perfectly for half lap joints in a credenza I'm building. Probably took me 10 or 20 minutes or so to get the height setup perfect. I was thinking at the time that maybe I should drop the $300 for a lift. Nah--I just ordered a Byrd head for my planer instead. I'll plug along with the Freud for quite a while.

[Larry Anderson]

I used my 895 in the table for some time. I always had a problem with chips getting between the motor and fixed base and interfering with up and down movement. Recently got a Jessum lift when they were on sale.

[Neil Brooks]

Agree with Mike.

I've had my Woodpecker PRL5625 (for my Milwaukee 5625-20) for all of two days now, but ... already have that "how did I ever live without it?" feeling.

Example:

I have an Amana glue line router bit. I make setup blocks for the thickness of stock I'm using.

The first ones were made a few weeks ago. Getting the bit up or down just a few thou at a time was a BEAR, with just the adjustments on the 5625.

But ... yesterday ... having the 32tpi pitch lift meant that I had a HUGE advantage in the consistency, smoothness, and ease with which I could change the height _by tiny amounts_.

In fact, I realized that the 32tpi _may_ have been overkill (no matter. I like it !).

I also believe that the heft and construction of the PRL means that the bits are now turning even more smoothly than they did before.

Placebo effect ? Hm. Maybe

But ... on sale for $199 ... I'm a really happy customer !

[Dan Friedrichs]

Four reasons:

1) Typically a router lift has more TPI in the lift mechanism screw, giving you more precise control of positioning. That said, my Triton with above-the-table adjustment has ~13 TPI, and most lifts have 16 or 32 TPI. I've heard people recommend the 16 TPI over the 32 TPI, because the latter takes SO LONG to crank. So this seems like a non-issue, to me.

2) Most routers with above-the-table adjustment still require you to flip a locking lever once you get it to the desired height, while some lifts do not require this extra step. Some lifts do require this step, though, so whether or not this is an issue will depend on the particular lift you're looking at.

3) Above mentioned locking lever is usually a cam-design, so it can slightly change the position of the bit when you tighten it down on some router models. With my Triton, I used a dial indicator and could not measure more than 0.001" of variation in bit position (in any direction) upon locking the lever down. So while this may be a problem for some router models, it may be a non-issue for others.

4) Finally, said locking lever is often below-the-table, even on above-the-table adjustable routers. So you can adjust the bit height above the table, but then need to reach under to lock it. If you have an enclosed cabinet, this may be a disadvantage, as you'd have to open and close the cabinet door every time you made a height change. But if your router table is just a flat surface with the router hanging under it, this shouldn't be a big deal.



I asked this same question a few months ago before buying a router. Frankly, I think people still buy router lifts primarily because they are unfamiliar with the new above-the-table routers.

[Stephen Cherry]

I don't know why anyone would buy a router lift when you can get old shapers for around 300 dollars.

By the time you add up the lift, megarouter to go with it, and table, you are well over the cost of an entry 3/4 inch shaper. I have a couple of the Delta HD shapers, and any of them would have my big PC router as a mid morning snack,

[Chris Tsutsui]

I had a router already. PC 3.25HP VS router.

Thus, I looked for a lift so I could use the router in. Ended up with a craigslist find of a Jessem Rockler anodized blue "older" model. Works excellent.

[Mike Ashton]

I don't know why anyone would buy a router lift when you can get old shapers for around 300 dollars.

By the time you add up the lift, megarouter to go with it, and table, you are well over the cost of an entry 3/4 inch shaper. I have a couple of the Delta HD shapers, and any of them would have my big PC router as a mid morning snack,

I had an older shaper and dumped it in favor of keeping the router table. Reasons were simple: The molding router bit cost me $55 brand new, something similar for the shaper would have been close to $300.

Also the cost of a power feeder plays a role, they aren't cheap.

I feel like this went off course, possibly my fault in part. I didn't intent to start a router table vs shaper debate. I think most people agree they both have their purpose and serve 2 different needs (often alongside eachother). I rarely turn bits big enough to warrant a shaper and floor space for me is at a premium.

[Tom Rick]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ht=router+lift

[pat warner]

"hoping somebody can educate me. What am I missing?"
*********************
In my view, (one who can still do knee bends), they are unnecessary.
A convenience for some but unneeded (for me) nonetheless.
They certainly have more precise travel screws and locks and they can change depth better than any router mechanism. But you're still not exempt from the obligatory calibration cut.
You know the changes well but not the target from a ground zero starting point.
Moreover, they are heavy and will bend your table top if you don't strengthen/stress it.
The routermakers had a case of too-little-too-late. They saw the light when the Canadians (et.al.) were filling a need they didn't think existed. Your 890 (PC) and many others tried to please with their upside down up/down mechanisms. They missed the mark due to competition/economy and other factors. Routers are cheap, many even sold below production/distribution costs. Add a sophisticated depth changer and they'd price themselves right out of the market!

All that aside, I did make a table with a BenchDog lift in it, albeit of quite contrarian design.
The lift is bolted to the underside of the top so the user (a client) would have a flat continuous work surface

[Mike Harrison]

I've had my PRL for a few years and I love it. As an earlier poster noted it took several days before I got over just how great it was, and its still a great, time saving, tool.

[Van Huskey]

Speed, precision and accuracy. If you have the time for extra test cuts and all the other general setup it honestly is 6 one half a dozen another. That said I love my lifts and would not want to be without them BUT if I had a tighter budget when I bought them I would have viewed them like a luxury and bought things that without them projects couldn't get done. They are a luxury but for most people so is a computer...

[Floyd Mah]

I would rather measure the bit height directly rather than take my chances with relying on a lift for repeatability. Use a height gage to measure the bit height. A height adjustment mechanism is nice, but very expensive. This gage is on sale for $62. I just finished making windows using a matched set of cutters that required better than 0.002" height repeatability to get good results. I could dial in that degree of accuracy in less than 2 minutes.

[Mike Harrison]

The graduations on your height gauge isn't any better than what you find on a good lift.