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Thread: Building a new shop any advice wil help.

  1. #1

    Exclamation Building a new shop any advice wil help.

    Hi all, I am a newbie and i am currently having a shop built where i just purchased my home...The shop is going to be like 24x28 got a really good price on it.Now comes the fun part...I want to make cabinets,tables,book shelves,etc. I currently have some tools that i bought to do some remodeling in my other homes i had...The tools i got is RIGID ts-3660 table saw,RIGID r2900 fixed base and plunge router kit for my router,DEWALT dw705 12inch compound miter saw with lazer on a DEWALT dw723 table,and i have a small mini pancake dewalt air compressor with a few nail guns big and small. Now from your experienced wood workers here am i on the right track on the tools i got now or do i start over i know i need more tools i see but i just want to make sure the ones i got are good accurate for a nice quality job as well..I bought lots of books and been reading and watching you guys talk on here as well.

    Here are some tools i am looking into buying for my shop as well. Festool domino df-500 q joiner set,Dewalt 735 planer,DEWALT DW 7350 Planer Stand with Integrated Mobile Base,DEWALT DW7353 Chip Collection Accessory for DW735 Planer,Grizzly G0457 band saw,and mast-r-lift II complete table system that jessem has for my router table.

    I know there's much more i need to buy like bisquits and other stuff but from basically seeing what i got and getting i am on the right track here???
    Any info on the way im going to have my shop built would help a lot as well...Thanks a lot guys

  2. #2
    Welcome to the Creek, the best woodworking forum on the net.

    I am sure not a pro but some thoughts.....

    Plan plan plan..... SketchUp can really help you with the layout and planning.

    Make sure you have all the circuits you need. then figure out how many receptical you need and then double it.

    The first thing you want to do after you get the shop wired is to set up and plum in a dust collector, this goes back to planning as to where you want your tools set up in the shop.

    Get the shop some what set up so you can work in it and then decide on what cabinets and were you want them.

    With me I hate the fact that I have a shop all done and now I say I sure wish I would have done it different.

    I am sure there will be a lot of guys here give you some very good info on what and how to set up your shop.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Mansfield MA
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    1,372
    +1 on the dust collector and the planning advice. Lay it all out, and get power and DC set up first.

    I would also recommend a jointer. There are lots of good posts here (and elsewhere on the interweb) on how to set up shop, but the TS, jointer and planer should be the 'triangle' for wood prep.

    If I had that sort of room, I'd want to set space aside for:
    - lumber storage, both boards and sheet goods
    - good sized entrance doors
    - a larger air compressor
    - a sizeable workbench.
    I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger....then it hit me.

  4. #4
    So do you think the tools that i have and the ones i have on here that im going to buy is good enough?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    westchester cty, NY
    Posts
    796
    aaahhhhhh, not one mention of a WMH group tool! smart move staying away form jet, powermatic and wilton.

    i'd go with the ridgid planer insted of the 735 and combine the savings from that with skipping the domino and getting a good plate joiner, like the porter cable or dewalt models. the savings from those two tool changes will probably cover the cost of a descent dust collector. and adding grizzly to the mix covers a good band saw. good luck with the shop build. just keep focusing on what functionality you need or want instead of just buying the most expensive type of a given tool you can.

  6. #6
    When you are designing the shop's electrical setup you might want to consider placing the receptacles higher up on the walls. Mine are approx 36 inches off the floor. Makes it a lot easier. Also I have combination 110/220 volt plugs around the shop. Some tools are 110v and others are 220v. and you can't have too many. Extra receptacles are relatively cheap in the overall scheme of thing, especially when installed during construction.

  7. #7
    Good luck on your shop!

    I say, buy what is the best you can afford. The best bang for the buck.
    I have a mix of Delta, Fox, Giz and Jet. tools. I got good prices on them and they work. Just a little bit of shopping makes a big difference.
    Some people seem brighter after being set on fire

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Joseph Tarantino View Post
    aaahhhhhh, not one mention of a WMH group tool! smart move staying away form jet, powermatic and wilton.

    i'd go with the ridgid planer insted of the 735 and combine the savings from that with skipping the domino and getting a good plate joiner, like the porter cable or dewalt models. the savings from those two tool changes will probably cover the cost of a descent dust collector. and adding grizzly to the mix covers a good band saw. good luck with the shop build. just keep focusing on what functionality you need or want instead of just buying the most expensive type of a given tool you can.
    The rigid and the dewalt 735 both cost 399 which is better?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Porter,TX
    Posts
    1,536
    Even though you have an air compressor(pancake)I would make plans to up grade to a 60gal or 80gal (future)and layout for the piping.I would have drops along the work bench,assembly area,painting area,etc.I would run black pipe and install pee-traps at each drop.If you google it I'm sure several plans would pop up.Welcome and post pics of your progress,we're all noise----Carroll

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    As mentioned, double the amount of outlets you think you need. 220v outlets in 20 and 30 amp. Don't cheap out on the electrical panel. A good one is a commercial Square D panel and breakers. 100 amp should do it for that size shop.
    Last edited by Sean Troy; 11-21-2010 at 5:50 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
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    1,341
    My thoughts.

    You didn’t say where you are located or if you are already going to do this, but insulate the bee-geez-us out of the building, inc. quality windows and doors! The more comfortable you make the shop, the more time you will spend there.

    Sounds like you have a good idea as to what you want you want to do. IMO, you can get by on the tools that you now have.

    As Bill H suggested, install a good dust collection cyclone. I have one and it is worth every paid I paid Oneida for it. Same with Bill’s advice as to tool lay out. When I did my shop (30x36 detached building, wood shop is 24x30), I made a large scale drawing of the shop area and tools on butcher paper. I then moved the tools around until I was comfortable with the layout. I found this visually more user friendly than the computer screen.

    MY tools are laid out so I can see anyone who comes in the roll up garage door or side access door while I am using the power tools or at the work bench. A much safer way to work.

    Also have magntic starters (AKA switches) on my power tools. Once was running the router table and there was power faillure. Before I could turn it off, the power came back on. Good thing I had not let go of the work. Lee Valley has a GFCI that must be re-set after a power failure
    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...53&cat=1,42207

    WoodCraft has a similar safety device that plus into a well receptacle or extension cord. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...fessional.aspx

    Have a good first aid kit handy.

    Good lightning: as we get older and on dark days, more light is needed. Have the lights wired so the whole shop doesn’t need to be lit.

    Tools and shops naturally “attract” thieves. Think about a shop alarm system and a phone line. The windows in my shop are high to keep out “inquisitive eyes“. Plus the roll-up insulated garage door has no windows. Having windows up high leaves more useable space beneath.

    As for tool upgrades or future purchases, I always recommend a good quality cabinet saw. And a good 12” planer plus a long bed 8” jointer are well worth the money. The De Walt 735 planer seems to be a very popular and well-made machine. Might be best to hold off on buying more tools until you really get started and then you’ll soon find out what you want and what you really need is often two different things.

    A number of woodworkers often skimp on quality lay out tools. An accurate and robust square while having a stout price will last a lifetime and have readable scales. A good marking knife and/or marking gauge leave a clean and sharp line.

    Router bits -- doesn’t make sense to buy these “dream router bit starting out kits” as I’ve seen far too many of these dubious quality kits sit in a drawer with only very few of the bits ever utilized. Buy good bits as you need them. As for straight bits, machine shop end-mills will work just fine.

    As for air, I have cast iron oil 25 gal. unit from Grainger which runs the pneumatic nailers. ‘Nevva’ felt that this unit was underpowered for what I need. Some shops have these humungous air compressors, but are they really needed? Unless you are doing air sanding, drilling, spraying, grinding, etc., IMO they are overkill.

    When I spray, I utilize water based and a HVLP turbine/sprayer. “E-zee” clean up and presents the ability to apply several coats in one day. When the weather is nice or the shop temperature turned up high, I can apply two coats of water based sanding sealer and three water based coats of poly in one day. Plus with water based products, chances of a shop fire are greatly reduced.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
    My thoughts.

    You didn’t say where you are located or if you are already going to do this, but insulate the bee-geez-us out of the building, inc. quality windows and doors! The more comfortable you make the shop, the more time you will spend there.

    Sounds like you have a good idea as to what you want you want to do. IMO, you can get by on the tools that you now have.

    As Bill H suggested, install a good dust collection cyclone. I have one and it is worth every paid I paid Oneida for it. Same with Bill’s advice as to tool lay out. When I did my shop (30x36 detached building, wood shop is 24x30), I made a large scale drawing of the shop area and tools on butcher paper. I then moved the tools around until I was comfortable with the layout. I found this visually more user friendly than the computer screen.

    MY tools are laid out so I can see anyone who comes in the roll up garage door or side access door while I am using the power tools or at the work bench. A much safer way to work.

    Also have magntic starters (AKA switches) on my power tools. Once was running the router table and there was power faillure. Before I could turn it off, the power came back on. Good thing I had not let go of the work. Lee Valley has a GFCI that must be re-set after a power failure
    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...53&cat=1,42207

    WoodCraft has a similar safety device that plus into a well receptacle or extension cord. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...fessional.aspx

    Have a good first aid kit handy.

    Good lightning: as we get older and on dark days, more light is needed. Have the lights wired so the whole shop doesn’t need to be lit.

    Tools and shops naturally “attract” thieves. Think about a shop alarm system and a phone line. The windows in my shop are high to keep out “inquisitive eyes“. Plus the roll-up insulated garage door has no windows. Having windows up high leaves more useable space beneath.

    As for tool upgrades or future purchases, I always recommend a good quality cabinet saw. And a good 12” planer plus a long bed 8” jointer are well worth the money. The De Walt 735 planer seems to be a very popular and well-made machine. Might be best to hold off on buying more tools until you really get started and then you’ll soon find out what you want and what you really need is often two different things.

    A number of woodworkers often skimp on quality lay out tools. An accurate and robust square while having a stout price will last a lifetime and have readable scales. A good marking knife and/or marking gauge leave a clean and sharp line.

    Router bits -- doesn’t make sense to buy these “dream router bit starting out kits” as I’ve seen far too many of these dubious quality kits sit in a drawer with only very few of the bits ever utilized. Buy good bits as you need them. As for straight bits, machine shop end-mills will work just fine.

    As for air, I have cast iron oil 25 gal. unit from Grainger which runs the pneumatic nailers. ‘Nevva’ felt that this unit was underpowered for what I need. Some shops have these humungous air compressors, but are they really needed? Unless you are doing air sanding, drilling, spraying, grinding, etc., IMO they are overkill.

    When I spray, I utilize water based and a HVLP turbine/sprayer. “E-zee” clean up and presents the ability to apply several coats in one day. When the weather is nice or the shop temperature turned up high, I can apply two coats of water based sanding sealer and three water based coats of poly in one day. Plus with water based products, chances of a shop fire are greatly reduced.

    Thanks a lot guys you all been a real help...Hope i am able 1 day to help you guys out as well..And Ray i am located in Mississippi and i have not had it built yet i still got to level the land.All i done is talk to a guy who builds homes and told him i just want it built on the outside i will do the drywall and stuff on the inside..I plan on getting me a vac system and a larger compressor you said that i can get by on the tools i have is that a good thing or not?..The way you said it is that i don't got the right tools... :-( And now i went further in the forums and see a lot of people buying powermatic pm2000 table saw and it cost 2000 dollars did i make a mistake when i bought my rigid for 600 i just hope with the tools i have now i just didnt waste a bunch of money on them... Now i am not feeling good about the tools i got...All i want to do is do good clean custom work...


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    westchester cty, NY
    Posts
    796
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Sayre View Post
    The rigid and the dewalt 735 both cost 399 which is better?
    here is the result of a google search for the dewalt 735:

    http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCkQ8wIwAg#

    the lowest price there was $599 @ toolking. i'm sure there are many here who would like to know where 735s can be had, new, for $399.

    disregarding price, the 735 is a better 13" planer, at least that's what wood magazine decided in their last test of 13" planers. but the 4330 was rated a best buy, offering the most bang for the buck. either will provide good service.

    so , where can those 735s be had for $399?

  14. #14
    Joseph i am sry i must have been on a wrong page i do see that it does cost 599 sry for the bad info...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    1,884
    Ray Newman, among others, gave you excellent advice (as usual !).

    The only place where I might disagree is the router bits.

    In my humble opinion, a *reasonable* assortment of 1/2" shank bits will give you a reasonable opportunity to figure out exactly which bits YOU will and will not use.

    From there, I WOULD definitely recommend buying *those profiles,* from a good-quality manufacturer (eg, Amana, Whiteside, CMT, Eagle etc.).

    I've reached into my original Woodline set more than a few times for a bit profile that I have NO *regular* use for, but was glad to have around. They're adequate quality, and hold up well -- if not pushed, and overheated -- under occasional use.

    And ... though I'm pretty satisfied with the roughly $250 or so that's into my Harbor Freight 2HP DC, with Wynn Cartridge Filter, I *do* have a 2 or 3hp cyclone on my short list of eventual upgrades. And ... since I could turf the HF model to my ww'er brother ... it's not money wasted

    Good luck !

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