I can't speak to the longivity of the inserts as I've only had the Akeda for 3 months, but the inserts are constructed of a solid material. I don't foresee any issues, but perhaps someone who has had one for a long time can speak to that.
Member
I can't speak to the longivity of the inserts as I've only had the Akeda for 3 months, but the inserts are constructed of a solid material. I don't foresee any issues, but perhaps someone who has had one for a long time can speak to that.
Member
One option would be to buy the equivalent Trend jig. It's a rebadged Akeda and it's on sale this weekend at Canadian Woodworker. As I recall it only has 9 fingers, not the 10 of the original Akeda. The Akeda brand accessory kits should fit though...might want to double-check.Originally Posted by Daryl Henderson
Member
Just checked Amazon.com, they have the Trend CDJ600 24" for 194.03, and the 12" for 118.99, says includes a router bit and a collar.
Friend of The Creek
Michael,
??? I am not sure what you mean... (bold type by me in the quote above)
The capability to adjust the finger joints in an infinite way is for the dovetail spacing - and it has nothing to do with the joint fit. For example, you can create a piece that is only 4 inches tall and has two dovetails centered in the panel; but you can also create a 10-inch tall piece that also has 2, much larger dovetails; and in both cases you will have perfectly-fitting joints.
A large advantage is that you can always adjust the finger assembly such that you will have a partial finger on each end.
Please let me know if I could call you, as I get the impression there is some confusion regarding spacing vs. joint fit.
Al
Member
Al, I think he means that the fingers can be repositioned into the same exact location each time due to the machined notches in the rail that holds the finger assemblies.
Friend of The Creek
I understand - but what I do not understand is how 0.010" can mess up a project... Positioning, and being off 0.010" is not likely to mess up a dovetailed project. I still think I am missing something...
Al
Member
That's not the Akeda clone. I'm talking about the DC400. Available at Canadian Woodworker this weekend for $249.95 CAD. (The normal price is $375, but check the "feature items" on the main web page.)
https://www.canadianwoodworker.com/w...y&target=DC400
Last edited by Chris Friesen; 11-26-2010 at 1:14 PM.
Member
I think he's talking about cutting the tails, then resetting the jig for something else, then coming back and cutting the pins. With the Akeda you could actually do this. With the Leigh, you need to cut both pins and tails before resetting the jig.
Doesn't seem like a huge limitation, personally. (I don't have either jig.) Repeatability vs infinite variability.
Friend of The Creek
Thanks, Chris.
I have thought about that, too. I just don't see having to do as you say, since I have never had to do it. But you are right about re-setting the jig for another job. I cannot think of a single case in which you *must* do so, and then come back to finish the job.
I have not idea what Michael was addressing - and I would be speculating, and taking wild guesses...I truly would like to hear from Michael what he meant.
Al
[OP]
Contributor
I understand - but what I do not understand is how 0.010" can mess up a project... Positioning, and being off 0.010" is not likely to mess up a dovetailed project. I still think I am missing something...
Al
In the event that you flip your boards from end to end (like you have to with the Omni), and if the fingers are not perfectly centered on the board, the joint will be off double of whatever the error was.
I just went through this with my Incra too. Even though it touts "perfect centering" of the bit to the work, it was off a few thou' and the tail / pin boards did not line up propperly.
[OP]
Contributor
I just checked and was unable to find the sale price. It's listed for 375.
Friend of The Creek
Michael,
Ahhh - I see what you meant!
However, don't worry - with the Leigh jigs you rotate the work pieces either clockwise, or counterclockwise, not end-on-end (which you *must* do when you cut finger joints on the Leigh jigs!). So, this is not a problem, as one side is always registered accurately against a side stop. In fact, the only thing that is critical is the board orientation when you machine the tail boards, and also the finger boards. And, for the craftsman, the critical thing is how *you* prefer the dovetail spacing - it is up to you how you space the fingers on the finger assembly, to get the most pleasing look to the dovetails. And getting the proper fit is trivial, once you get the feel for it - the guides on the finger assembly will adjust in predictable increments, as they have divisions to help with this, and the divisions are marked very accurately.
Al
Last edited by Al Navas; 11-26-2010 at 1:46 PM. Reason: Modify one sentence.
Member
I've had my 16in version for 3 or 4 years and the plastic inserts have not degraded at all. The inserts are very hard. I've cut the tail inserts in half for various reasons and it takes some considerable effort to saw these things.
~mark
Member
I owned a Leigh, too hard to set up. I still own an Ominjig, I little easier to set up than the Leigh. I also purchased the Akeda, very easy to setup and use. I would opt for the Akeda. If you are going to do a lot of production dovetails and can afford it, what about a dovetail machime
http://www.akeda.com/
http://www.macoserwood.com/product1.html
http://www.dodds.com/products/products.php?categoryID=2
Member
I have a question of those of you that own DT jigs already. How many of you find it important to have the 24" capacity instead of just having the 16" capacity?
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