My Rust Removing Method

[Carroll Courtney]

Over the pass few weeks alot has been said about how and how not to remove rust from cast iron table tops,beds,even stamp steel.Some of the suggestions givin were from people that has done it in the pass,some suggestions givin were from people that has read about it and others speaking from just common sense.What makes this web site so nice we all can post our on methods,read about other methods,and its open for discussion.
The amount of rust buildup and area size is what dictates my approach,if its small then just a good old razor blade,or scotch pad and mineral spirits is all that is needed.
But if its a large area such as table saw top or bandsaw top then I will break out the angle grinder.Reason for posting this is to show that speaking from personnel experiences and to set aside the myth that wire wheels will remove metal.
Wire Wheels:Guys,wire wheels come in different styles,and quality,shapes.I buy mine from welding supply stores cause they last alot longer and they work.HD and Lowes sells them but they just wear out to fast and the wire size is very small.Which brings us to the wear part,either good or cheap quality wire wheel they both still wear down meaning that the wheel wears out before the cast iron will.
Caution:Safety glass is a must,not only does the wires wear down but ever so often the wires will break off and then it becomes a projectile.I always wear gloves just in case the angle grinder jumps.Which brings us to wheel rotation,always pay attention to the direction of rotations and your approach.If your coming to an edge and the rotation is against the edge it will kick,jump,grab,etc the grinder.Try to go at it with the rotation leaving the edge,life is alittle easier that way.A cup wire wheel would be better,but I just don't have one and I have several flat wire wheels.With everything always be safe and nothing is 100% safe.
Now,what I'm cleaning is a table top from a 1946 36"Crescent bandsaw.It was in Natchez Pulp Mill in Mississippi and has been idle for several yrs.

[Carroll Courtney]

What I do is go back and fourth over the table in a left/right,right/left,up/down method.I tilt the grinder on the left edge,then on the right edge,then on the front tip using the direction describe.What your doing is changing the approach of the wire to the rust and if you have small pits then the wire wheel coming at it from different directions will remove more of the rust.
How do I tell that enought is enought?When I first start,rust dust is going all over the place and as progress is being made the dust gets less and less till I can't see dust anymore.Then move to the next step

[Carroll Courtney]

After I have gone over the surface several times and this took me at lease 1/2 hr if not more then I move to the wet/dry sandpaper.If you go to the sandpaper to soon all your going to do is clog the paper.So you need to remove as much as you can using the wire wheel.
I go down to the local auto supply and buy the variety pack of wet/dry sandpaper.I start out using 320 grit and a rubber sanding block, I also have a small squirt bottle of mineral spirits to use as a lubricant to help with the sanding.I go back and forth then I take a clean rag and wipe the surface down and do it all over again.Then I move on to 400grit working my way up to 800grit.
Guys you can take the wet/dry sanding as far as you want to,but for me I just went up to the 800.I think I could spend hrs on this and get it shinny but that would mean more up keep.This is as far as I went,no damage was done to the surface,only rust was removed,no one was hurt.All of this is how I approach restoring old wwing machines which I have done afew.Using a wire wheel I also remove paint getting down to the metal either stamp steel or cast iron it makes no differents.This is better than sandblasting when there are no small cracks and crevis.Add alittle paste wax and your good to go----Carroll

[Phil Thien]

I can't argue with the pictures, looks great!

[Jerry White]

Carroll,

I have noticed the fine finish on the old machines that you have listed for sale in the past. I always have to stop and admire your restoration jobs. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[rick carpenter]

Interesting take on the problem. What do you do about rust underneath with the webbing/bosses/etc?

[Carroll Courtney]

Good question Rick,dang post @1am.Anyway to do the webbing on these tables and even the frame on a PM141 I go to my cheap HF sandblaster.
I try to use the grinder first and tight spots,go to the blaster.Its nasty but necessary.Pics show after sbing and primer,finish coat----Carroll

[Mike Cruz]

So, Carroll, pardon my ignorance, but why don't you use the blaster on the top? Would it be too uneven/too difficult to remove an even amount? I've never used a sand blaster (will be soon enough) and wondered about the working surfaces. Planned not to use the blaster on them, but was curious about why I had a gut feeling not to. (Or as Mater from Cars would say...to not to )

[Carroll Courtney]

Mike,that's a good question.The blaster leaves very tiny divits or a texture(which is adjustable by sand size and psi) which is great for cast iron,sheet metal,steel because it gives the paint something to stick to.But on unpainted surfaces the texture is undisirable since we want to be as slick as glass.There are other media besides sand, but that can get very expensive when your using a blaster of this type and not a cabinet type where it can be recycle.----Carroll

[Mike Cruz]

Yeah, that's kinda what I figured. I'll be sure to avoid spraying the ways of my lathe. Thanks.

[Carroll Courtney]

What I did on my PM90 I use the blue masking tape and try not to send any sand towards that area.You can also use the shelving paper that is vinyl which is alittle thicker and can handle the sand alittle better than just masking tape----Carroll

[Alex Horvath]

Thanks,

I tried to remove rust from some steel parts before painting with naval jelly once - I think it says on the bottle that the millitary uses it to remove rust from battleships - gimme a break!

How do you clean up chisels? I get glue on them which of course instantly causes a rust stain. Steel wool sort of works but it takes a lot of elbow grease.

[Dan Hintz]

I tried to remove rust from some steel parts before painting with naval jelly once - I think it says on the bottle that the millitary uses it to remove rust from battleships - gimme a break!

Yeah, everyone knows naval jelly is to prevent that unsightly rust spot from making your belly look ugly as you get older...

[Carroll Courtney]

Alex,if you have a buffer w/wire wheel that would be the route I would take for the quick clean up follow by a cloth wheel.If there is alot of rust then I would try Citric Acid from www.chemistrystore.com Very user friendly,its what I use to clean rust and paint from small parts such as nuts & bolts.I would think even though I have never tried it that this would work great on a chiesl.But I would not submerge the wooden handle.http://www.chemistrystore.com/search...ds=citric+acid
Give it a try,it works----Carroll