Bandsaw tune-up question

[Ben Davis]

Christmas came a few weeks early and I'm now the proud owner of an old Jet 14" bandsaw. I've never tuned up a bandsaw before, so most of this is a learning curve for me.

I'm told both the upper and lower wheel bearings have been replaced. The upper wheel seems balanced and runs true, though it needs a new tire. However, the lower wheel, with the pulley attached on the opposide side, doesn't seem to rotate nearly as long as the upper wheel when given a gentle push by hand. Is this normal or do I need to look at replacing the lower bearing?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Save time. Save headaches. Save money.

Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-G...1066389&sr=1-3

[Ben Davis]

That good huh? Better than the Lonnie Bird classic?

[Jim Rimmer]

Save time. Save headaches. Save money.

Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-G...1066389&sr=1-3

+1 on the book. I got one when I got my BS; worth twice the price.

Also check this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...=talk+bandsaws

To address your specific question, just my guess, the top wheel free wheels and the lower wheel is the drive wheel and is connected to the motor via the drive belt. Probably why it stops sooner. (Just re-read this and I didn't mean to sound like a smart ***. It really is just a guess)

[Kent A Bathurst]

That good huh? Better than the Lonnie Bird classic?

Honestly dunno, Ben - never read that one - I think. There are some reference books in that stack over there [you can see me pointing, right?] that I haven't dug through in a number of years though....its possible I bought it 12+ years ago and forgot I have it. The Duginske book is the "new + improved" edition - released late last year, IIRC. Easily worth the $14 bucks , tho.

EDIT: BTW - If you get your hands on the Iturra Design catalog, that is a great reference book in its own, and its free. It isn't like any other "catalog" I've ever read. Yes, it has all the parts + pieces, but Louis Iturra is a very very knowledgeable guy specializing in the classic Delta 14" cast-iron C-frame BS, and all the clones + offshoots. He goes into great depth in the catalog - I'd bet over 1/3 of the 250 pages [8-1/2" x 11" format] are discussion and description. You gotta read it to believe it. You want guides? First, read the 3-page into on blade temps, then the 6 pages of parts - which are about 50% detailed discussion of how each style does what it does.

I swear he has studied in detail items I would never have even thought about. I buy my parts + upgrades from him. He does have strong opinions on certain topics that he is not shy about discussing - sometimes in contravention to other expert resources [for example, he details a disagreement with Mark Duginske on blade tension - while at the same time praising him on his knowledge and help], but that's OK with me - I doubt any single person has sole grip on the "truth stick."

If you call him, he will gladly talk to you about any topic.

I have no connection to Mr Iturra, other than as a very satisfied occasional customer.

[John Coloccia]

To address your specific question, just my guess, the top wheel free wheels and the lower wheel is the drive wheel and is connected to the motor via the drive belt.

Exactly. If you needed a new bearing, it'd be pretty obvious. Wobbling, noise, roughness, etc. Hey, while you're in there, replace that belt with a Power Twist V Belt. So far I've done it on my DP and Bandsaw, and it makes a big difference in making the equipment more pleasant to be around.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> That good huh? Better than the Lonnie Bird classic?

Buy either. Both are excellent. They will tell you how to set up and align your saw. They will discuss the types of blades you need for different kinds of cuts and they will tell you how to get the most out of the saw.

[Ben Davis]

To address your specific question, just my guess, the top wheel free wheels and the lower wheel is the drive wheel and is connected to the motor via the drive belt. Probably why it stops sooner. (Just re-read this and I didn't mean to sound like a smart ***. It really is just a guess)

Exactly. If you needed a new bearing, it'd be pretty obvious. Wobbling, noise, roughness, etc. Hey, while you're in there, replace that belt with a Power Twist V Belt. So far I've done it on my DP and Bandsaw, and it makes a big difference in making the equipment more pleasant to be around.

The drive pully is disconnected from the motor. There isn't any noise, but it certainly doesn't spin freely like the upper wheel. Not having laid my hands on the internals of another bandsaw, I'm at a loss of knowing if this is normal or not!

I've already got the link belt. Those things are the cat's meow!

[John Coloccia]

Personally, if it felt smooth, didn't wobble and didn't make noise, I would use the bearing as is and replace it down the line when it starts acting up. Maybe it's just a cheap bearing. It's really not a problem until it starts causing play in the wheel, even if it's a little stiffer than the top wheel. That's just my opinion.

[Joseph Tarantino]

+1 on kent's comments, with one exception. save your money and skip the duginske book. once you've reviewed all the info in iturra's catalog, you simply won't need mark's book. put the money towards a good lennox blade from iturra and start enjoying your saw.