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Thread: Maple Drop Front Desk Progress

  1. #1
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    Maple Drop Front Desk Progress

    I've been slowly working on the maple desk I previously posted about in this thread. Hopefully the pace is going to pick up considerably this week since this project is due 3 weeks from Friday.

    Hinges are from Horton Brasses, custom plated in a brushed nickle finish. Very glad I spent the extra money to do this. They sent brushed nickle hardware too but for now I'm using shorter, temporary screws. The hinges seem like they might be all that's needed to support the lid, but given that this is for an 8 year old I think I'm going to add additional supports (possibly just chain?)

    Before someone asks, the lid is shorter than the sides due to necessary clearance between the lid and the top which will be sticking out some. A small fixed filler piece will go above. My next task actually. The bottom is long for now because I wasn't sure of the exact size until I got the hinges installed and figured out where the sides needed to go in relation to the bottom.
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    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 11-29-2010 at 8:38 PM.


  2. #2
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    I should really fix the clock in the shop for DST. Thought it was later than it was and that I was at a good stopping point. Since I had more time I continued.

    The top gets a bevel so it won't look as chunky as it is right now.
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    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 11-29-2010 at 10:42 PM.


  3. #3
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    Very nice, looks great Matt! Also nice shop! I have tool envy!!!!!!!

  4. #4
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    Looking good Matt. I like your nice simple solution to your question (in the other post) about how to deal with the frame/panel flatness on the inside of the lid.

    How thick is that top? It will definitely look better with some sort of profile..
    I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger....then it hit me.

  5. #5
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    John, take a look at the top on the dresser to get an idea what it will look like.


  6. #6
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    Feb 2007
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    Canton, GA
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    Looking great Matt. Perhaps I missed it but what did you decide to do in order to get the writing surface flat?

    I had to do something similar when making a desk (pictures in my album on here) and I think I over complicated it. I spent more time in trying to get the writing surface flat than I did on any other part of the build. LOML wants me to build another one as the first one was for a client but I need a better way to make that surface flat.

    Keep up the good work and post more progress pictures when you get a chance.

  7. #7
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    I ended up veneering some 1/2" baltic birch panels. The veneer is actually the same veneer I had used on the bed. Thinking I'd never use any more I got rid of it but it found its way back to me with perfect timing. Its unusually thick so it should hold up well. Since the panels are stable, I was able to glue the rails and stiles fully and it should remain very solid over time.


  8. #8
    Looking good Matt, keep the pics a coming!!
    If at first you don't succeed, look in the trash for the instructions.





  9. #9
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    Nice little project you got going there Matt.
    Looking forward to the next update pics.

  10. #10
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    I worked a very long day yesterday so I took a late extended lunch and got the assembly on the top done.

    Next up is to build what is essentially a table that this will sit on top of. Then I need to build some kind of organizer to go inside.
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  11. #11
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    Nice project. Looking forward to following the thread to completion.

  12. #12
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    Moving right along, this afternoon and evening I built the base. The joinery here is 3 8x50 Dominos at each joint. (Note: I LOVE the Domino!) I set the top part on the base just to get a feel for the overall result but the top of the bottom, if that makes sense isn't there so obviously it looks a little funny right now. That panel is glued up--just need to level it, cut to size, and put the bevel on it to match the very top. I also need to disassemble and glue one of the sets of joints which were dry assembled because of open time on the glue. This has to be the squarest thing I've ever built with diagonals accurate to within the width of the marks on my tape measure. Must be some kind of mistake.

    We don't want a chair in her room and instead decided on a stool. Since I have neither the skill or the time to get it done by Christmas, I found a company in Holland Michigan that makes unfinished maple stool kits so one of those is on the way. Also have a taller one on the way for the shop. Total for the order was $80 or so.
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    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 12-05-2010 at 11:33 AM.


  13. #13
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    Looking great, and thankyou for continuing to post your progress--your project came right as I began researching similar for my boys. She'll love it.
    Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898

    Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser View Post
    The joinery here is 3 8x50 Dominos at each joint.
    Could you elaborate? Are you referring to the leg-to-apron joints? Are they 3 in a row? Doesn't look like there's enough space. I assume you make one mortice tight and the remaining loose? I'm just getting into something similar and am considering options for the Domino.

    Thanks
    Hans
    "There is a crack in everything - that's how the light gets in"

  15. #15
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    Yes, the leg-apron joints, 3 in a row. The 8x50mm Dominos are right about 3/4" wide and my aprons are 4" so that leaves 7/16" between each and between the top and bottom. Pretty similar in area to a tenon. I just used my adjustable square to carefully marked each one on the adjacent face using the top of each apron and leg as a reference. Then I cut the Dominos on the narrow setting. Its a perfect snug fit that just needs to be tapped together.


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