rosewood wine box and color filling

[Larry Bratton]

Rub & Buff is easiest and requires no masking.

http://sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?...pictureid=4565

That looks really nice Anthony. Care to share your technique?

[George McGinnis]

I tried using a spray can of gold from walmart with vinyl sign masking tape. Had it burnished down good I thought but still lifted. Also I pulled the paint out when it dried and I removed the mask. I had to get the job out today so I ended up filling a new box with black shoe polish. Wasn't the effect I was looking for but the customer was happy and I lost money on this job. Oh well you live and learn. Thanks for everyone's help I will try other methods on the rest of the scrap box. Maybe we can find a good method for doing these.
Thanks to everyone here on the creek. I have learned alot from everyone's post. Thanks again

[Anthony Scira]

Pretty simple. On my Epilog 45W I ran 100S 40P. I can not recall the DPI if it was 400 or 600. For some reason I did not put that info on. The Chargers logo was gone in greyscale with the 3 different shades. (90% 70% 40%). This gave the rub and buff different textures to grab onto creating the different shades of gold. Which I think was kinda cool.

As far as application just a dab on the fingertip and rub it on. Wipe off with a good quality cloth that will not scratch the finish. I love the stuff !

[Larry Bratton]

Pretty simple. On my Epilog 45W I ran 100S 40P. I can not recall the DPI if it was 400 or 600. For some reason I did not put that info on. The Chargers logo was gone in greyscale with the 3 different shades. (90% 70% 40%). This gave the rub and buff different textures to grab onto creating the different shades of gold. Which I think was kinda cool.

As far as application just a dab on the fingertip and rub it on. Wipe off with a good quality cloth that will not scratch the finish. I love the stuff !

Thanks for sharing the info. This is what makes this forum so great.

[Shawn Conklin]

Finally had a chance to test an idea on the JDS boxes. I have just the regular box not the piano finish but what I did here was to make a textured background (its a mico-gunstock pattern) then colorfill into the pattern with Laserbits color fill .. then simply wipe the top with windex. it creates an interesting effect.

Some things worth noting ...

I bled the colors a little once or twice because I was moving fast and didn't tape well enough. (I only taped to do different colors, one color would not need tape).

For whatever reason some of the colors just didn't stick well to the etch. Purple was the worst.

Silver gold and light blue look the best in person. Dark colors I am figuring will look better when I can test on the bamboo box I got.


I still need a photo box because the lighting in the shop is horrible for photos :-)

[Martin Boekers]

Actually that is a pretty nice effect! Gives me something to think about!
Thanks for sharing!

As for photo boxes I use these;


www.ezcube.com

You can make a set up out of PVC tubing (search online for plans)
and a couple clamp lights for about $50, but these save so much time
and are easy to use.

[Mark Plotkin]

just did one of the JDS poker chip boxes. Masked, lasered, and then color filled with acyclic paint from Micheals. color is called 24kt gold. sorry i did not get a photo as we shipped it out for a xmas present. it came out really nice with the color fill almost a perfect match with the hinges and box handle.

a special thanks to Frank for the royal flush vector file!

[Mike Null]

Here's an example of the gold paint I mentioned earlier. This is a high gloss mahogany plaque from JDS.

I flooded the area with paint, scraped with a business card, then again, then cleaned up with dna.

[Martin Boekers]

Nice work Mike! Did the client provide the shield or did you create that?

Those Hi-Gloss Mahogany Plaques are one of the best deals going.
Pricing is good, they are easy to work with and look stunning
when finished as we all can see!

[Terry Swift]

I have done quite a few of the boxes from JDS and just use the laser masking for stencils and then Krylon Metallic Gold. If you engrave the right depth, it works great with using multiple "light" coats. That's the key - light. I do about 4-5 light coats and then put on a clear lacquer. The boxes normally laser well; but I've had issues with some boxes in their quality. Most are MDF covered with a piano coating of some type - like contact paper almost. If you're doing fine detailed things like grape clusters, etc. - the detail can chip if you use low DPI / PPI settings. Also using a tape in that matter makes it very time consuming to remove and not damage the very delicate piano coating. I've heard others use the 24k spray from Hobby Lobby as best. It's a smaller can (8 oz I think) than the Krylon or others and costs more; but quality and ease of use is worth it for many.

ULS (my laser) and JDS Tech Support say to use Mat Board or MDF settings; but if you use tape - you have to count that in or use multiple passes at the MDF setting; which for my 35 watt is 38 power / 100 speed / 300 PPI. Text does great at 300 PPI / DPI; but not detailed graphics. JDS has great Technical Support, so call them with questions.

The QC on the piano boxes from JDS and Made in China are a bug-a-boo. I've had 3-4 boxes come out of the box damaged in different ways. Of course JDS is quick to fix it; but if you're on a Christmas Schedule and have only a day or two to deliver - then that is an issue. I've mentioned that to JDS and was sent some more damaged goods. Luckily I had enough to cover my orders.

Some suppliers IMHO have gotten real sloppy with QC and Made in China items. While some of the boxes are nice from JDS, others construction / fit / finish when looked at closely is not great. I'm looking for another supplier of piano boxes to see if their QC is any better or get the same box from the same manufacturer in China. I like JDS as they have a local warehouse here that makes it so convenient and the people there are great; but selling a sloppy product to me is not good.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Terry Swift]

Oops, should have posted this pic.

Image00002.jpg

[Mike Null]

Marty

I made the shield from white engravers plastic and a CLT. I can't get good quality art or it would look a lot better.

BTW--whenever possible I avoid masking as it is too much trouble and in the weeding process it is easy to scratch the wood surface.

Terry--that's very nice work.

[Dee Gallo]

Mike, that's a really attractive piece and the bas-relief really makes it pop. Great combination of your skills and tools! As usual, a very professional look and finish.

cheers, dee

[Ross Moshinsky]

Marty

I made the shield from white engravers plastic and a CLT. I can't get good quality art or it would look a lot better.

BTW--whenever possible I avoid masking as it is too much trouble and in the weeding process it is easy to scratch the wood surface.

Terry--that's very nice work.

Don't weed it. We engrave right through the mask. It takes longer but its better for 2 main reasons. 1) Never have to weed. 2) Don't have to worry about perfect placement back on the table.

In the end, photographs will never tell the whole picture on a process like this. My JDS warehouse has a few samples of these and they look fine from a few feet away, when I examine the piece, typical issues show up. I still like using the green painters tape, a coat or two of clear coat, and then finish with several coats of a good quality enamel spray paint. Every other method I've used has always lead to issues. In the end, most of this is too time consuming and I prefer just to use a plate.

[George M. Perzel]

Hi Gang;
I've had good luck with gilders paste (a Rodne suggestion)-easy to work with and cleans up quick-let it set for awhile and then clean up.
Be careful with DNA and lacquer finishes-some lacquers are alcohol based and DNA eats it like its butter.
George
Laserarts