Mounting brackets/hangers for duct

[Rick Moyer]

I'd like to see how you mount your ducting, both to the ceiling and against the wall. Should I make a bracket that matches the curve of the pipe side, or isn't it necessary? My pipe main will be up against the ceiling. Also how stable will a drop pipe be in the middle of the room and how can one stabilize it. I may have three foot drops of 6" pipe before transitioning to flex, not sure yet. I believe I read that one should put short screws into the verticle connections to help hold them.

[Jim O'Dell]

Rick, this is what I did. I only have one down tube away from the wall, two against the wall. The one in the middle of the shop for the table saws I built a cradle that the horizontal pipe running between the two saws sits in. DSCN2762.jpgDSCN2763.jpg Beyond that, it is just friction that holds it in place. I don't have any screws in the pipe. The pipe that goes to the bandsaw, router table, and future jointer has shelf brackets on the blast gate to the wall.DSCN2764.jpg Same thing at the multipurpose station on the opposite wall. DSCN2765.jpgDSCN2766.jpg On the pipe at the ceiling, I've made good use of the black rubber bungee cords. Some with eye hooks screwed into the ceiling, others, like this one, with the hooks taken off and the bungee screwed directly into the ceiling. DSCN2767.jpg Originally, after I put the pipe together and in place, I ran a bead of caulk around the fittings. You can see some of that as a yellow substance where the pipe joins the fittings. When I redid things this past Spring to accommodate the new table saw, and correct some other problems at the multipurpose station, I did not use the caulk. It has all worked just fine. Jim.

[Rick Moyer]

I was wondering if this was necessary. Anyone else find that it's OK not to caulk the joints? I'd prefer not to unless most think it's required.

Jim, any reason for bungees as opposed to strapping? I wouldn't think screws would be necessary horizontally, but I was wondering about vertical connections. Oh, and thanks for your help.

[Aaron Montgomery]

I haven't re-hung my 6" S&D yet, but I've purchased and plan to use screw mount cable tie holders and 175lb 36" zip ties.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cable-tie-holders/=a0rh6o
K 0.50" #10 (0.19" Dia.) 1 11/16" 3/4" 5/8" 185° 10 7582K82 14.11

http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-ties/=a0rjr5
36" 11" 175 0.34" MS3367-11, 12, 13 25 7130K22 9.46 7.93

Should allow for a fairly clean and easy installation. Zip ties are easy to remove and install. I'll post back after I've completed my re-install.

[Jim O'Dell]

Rick, I had the bungees, or at least most of them, and I thought they might isolate any vibrations from the cyclone to the building structure. They seem to do a good job of that, and holding the pipe where I put it. And there are no screws in the vertical pipe that goes to the two table saws. Just rests on the little cradle on the floor. Now if it was pipe just hanging there like you may be doing, with the weight of flex hanging off of it, you will need something. I'd hate to have something protruding into the air stream, so I think I'd probably take a 1" wide piece of the bell end of the pipe, put it over the down tube and use PVC primer and glue to glue it in place. Then take a wood ring, cut out for a tight fit on the pipe and slide it up against the ring that was glued on, and then use something, strapping, wire, or bungee, to hold the pipe in place. Make sense?? Another way to secure the piece of bell end would be to drill and install pop rivets, but do it from the inside so you have the flush part of the finished rivet on the inside. You could even make some sort of thin metal that rivets on the outside at the same time to use to attach your strapping to to anchor to the ceiling. Jim.

[Eric DeSilva]

I was wondering if this was necessary. Anyone else find that it's OK not to caulk the joints? I'd prefer not to unless most think it's required.

Jim, any reason for bungees as opposed to strapping? I wouldn't think screws would be necessary horizontally, but I was wondering about vertical connections. Oh, and thanks for your help.

I used 1" webbing to temporarily hold things in place while I figured out what to build for more permanent anchors. A year later, the webbing is still working fine. I didn't caulk either.

[Bill LaPointe]

I used plastic pipe strap on overhead runs. My 2 down drops were long radius pipe and one was secured to the wall with a 1 1/2 spacer and the same pipe strap. The other was supported by the legs on my table saw extension and an angle bracket. Didn't caulk but did put 1 screw at any fitting that was not horizontal and any hose adapter and blast gate.

[Rick Moyer]

I haven't re-hung my 6" S&D yet, but I've purchased and plan to use screw mount cable tie holders and 175lb 36" zip ties.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cable-tie-holders/=a0rh6o
K 0.50" #10 (0.19" Dia.) 1 11/16" 3/4" 5/8" 185° 10 7582K82 14.11

http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-ties/=a0rjr5
36" 11" 175 0.34" MS3367-11, 12, 13 25 7130K22 9.46 7.93

Should allow for a fairly clean and easy installation. Zip ties are easy to remove and install. I'll post back after I've completed my re-install.

I like this idea. Thanks. Wonder if I can find the holders locally.

[Chris Damm]

Plastic or metal pipe strap works just fine and is probably the cheapest. It's in the plumbing section of any hardware store.

[Rick Moyer]

Plastic or metal pipe strap works just fine and is probably the cheapest. It's in the plumbing section of any hardware store.

I have some metal pipe strap but it doesn't work as well when the pipe isn't running perpendicular to the ceiling joists. The cable tie holders would allow the pipe to be at an angle to the joists.

[Phil Thien]

I had tried the screw-type cable tie holders but I had found that the pipe swayed quite a bit. It didn't matter for overhead runs but was a problem wherever I wanted to put a blast gate.

So wherever you place a blast gate you're going to want a way to stabilize the pipe a little bit.

[Jim Andrew]

Have to confess, I put my pipe in the attic, and just cut holes for the pipe to drop through the ceiling. It's a bit of a pain when changes have to be made, but is very stable. Also mounted the cyclone outside the shop to minimize noise.

[glenn bradley]

I was wondering if this was necessary. Anyone else find that it's OK not to caulk the joints?

There is no caulk in either my dad's or my ducting and neither of us have had any problems. I did get a leak where I used a 6" coupler as a reducer for my 7" entrance to the blower. The solution there was to put it in place and then run a bead of silicone (or whatever) around the joint.

I suspended the pipe overhead with plumbers tape (really cheap at the BORG) and some I have stand-offs made from scrap. I used a circle cutter on the DP to cut holes in the blanks and then sawed them in half.

[David Giles]

I copied someone's design for 6" pipe supports. 3/4" plywood x about 4.5" wide, rout to pipe OD, screw an automotive hose clamp onto the curve, secure pipe to bracket with hose clamp. These have worked like a champ for 5 years.

[George Bregar]

I looked and found some sources for J Hooks, called the manufacturer and he said to buy them through Fergusons...who doesn't sell them. Called the manufacturer back, and they don't stock them either...special order, and no low qty. So I'm having my brother fab 'em up like this. This is the wall version...ceiling will have the arm folded at 90 degrees to fasten to ceiling...or all thread used to extend lower if needed.