ROS sanding after drum sander

[Robert Reece]

I run a drum sander with either 100 or 120 paper (can't remember which). Nonetheless, it leaves some pretty good tracks in the wood which I sand out with my random orbit sander. I usually have to hit it with 80 grit and make several passes and even then I usually have to hand sand a few little spots to kill off the final scratches. After all that I move onto the higher grits and it mostly seems to work out.

Does this sound about normal? I'm getting ready to order some new belts for my drum sander (80, 120 grit) and some new pads for ROS sander. Just want to make sure I'm not ordering unnecessary stuff.

[Zach Callum]

I go up to 180 on the drum sander to minimize the scratches. After going through the drum, I first use a card scraper to remove scratches, then ros, then by hand with a sanding block to remove any swirls left by the ros. If the project is going to be painted, hand sanding usually isn't necessary.

[David Nelson1]

I go up to 180 on the drum sander to minimize the scratches. After going through the drum, I first use a card scraper to remove scratches, then ros, then by hand with a sanding block to remove any swirls left by the ros. If the project is going to be painted, hand sanding usually isn't necessary.

Yupper, 1+ on what Zach says

[Karl Brogger]

I run a drum sander with either 100 or 120 paper (can't remember which). Nonetheless, it leaves some pretty good tracks in the wood which I sand out with my random orbit sander. I usually have to hit it with 80 grit and make several passes and even then I usually have to hand sand a few little spots to kill off the final scratches. After all that I move onto the higher grits and it mostly seems to work out.

Does this sound about normal? I'm getting ready to order some new belts for my drum sander (80, 120 grit) and some new pads for ROS sander. Just want to make sure I'm not ordering unnecessary stuff.

Go through finer grits on the drum sander. You'll still have to sand everything with a orbital, but there'll be a lot less to do.

With a widebelt I most commonly start with 80g, 120, then 180g w/ the platen in. Even if I went to 220g I'd still have to hit it with a orbital.

[Don Selke]

I generally purchase non surfaced material from my supplier, I then pass two sides on the jointer, then plane to size. After planing, I start at 150g and finish with 180g depending on the material I am using. I follow this with the ROS starting at 150 and finishing with 180. At 180 on the drum sander, you have to take very and I say very shollow passes or you can burn the paper. This has worked for me for many years.

[Leo Vogel]

Don - how is the surface from the drum sander after you have used the 180 grit? Does it take much sanding with ROS? I have always stopped at 120 grit on the drum. I would love not to spend as much time on the ROS.

[David Nelson1]

Don - how is the surface from the drum sander after you have used the 180 grit? Does it take much sanding with ROS? I have always stopped at 120 grit on the drum. I would love not to spend as much time on the ROS.

Leo If you use a card scraper @ 120 you can usual knock out everything that the drum sander leaves. I would say 4-5 good swipes going in both directions the ROSstarting @ 220 till you get to your desired finish.

I have a 10/20 I dont really care to use that fine of a grit, as mentioned before it not hard to burn the wood.

[Clint Olver]

I generally purchase non surfaced material from my supplier, I then pass two sides on the jointer, then plane to size. After planing, I start at 150g and finish with 180g depending on the material I am using. I follow this with the ROS starting at 150 and finishing with 180. At 180 on the drum sander, you have to take very and I say very shollow passes or you can burn the paper. This has worked for me for many years.

I do the same usually. Drum sand to 150 or 180, then start the randon orbital sander at 120 or 150. Hand sand if needed.

C

[Doug Shepard]

I usually stop at 180 with the drum sander but I typically send it through 3 times at the same height setting with the last grit. Twice with the pieces skewed at angles to the feed direction, and the last time straight. That usually eliminates any of the scratch lines but I'd end up following with scrapers or hand sanding with 220 or finer anyway.