Dayton Heater - Check the Thermostat Wiring

[Bob Winkler]

I liked the high airflow of the Dayton (Fahrenheit clone) because I wanted to move a lot of air around. Except for the wimpy built-in thermostat, I think the Dayton is a good heater at a reasonable price.

And my opinion is that its rarely a good idea to use a plug on a high-wattage heater that will be running unattended. Most manuals recommend against it.

Bob

[Justin Freund]

I don't understand the desire to keep replacing the thermostats on these units. Mine has been working fine but I saw the potential problem as soon as I opened the door when I installed it. IMO its a flawed design on an otherwise great heater. I'm putting in a remote thermostat on mine. It'll be one that actually has a temperature setting. I kept it on high when I first got it then realized that just above half kept it comfortable without running constantly (my shop is not completely insulated yet, so it was a big unnecessary waste to have it on high as it was never going to get to the "high" cutoff).

As for the wiring, unless you have a properly rated twist-lok receptacle and plug to keep the plug in place, I'd highly advise against using a cord and plug. The constant cycling of the load with such high wattage is a recipe for disaster on a normal receptacle IMO. Personally I have EMT from the sub to a fused knife disconnect that I can shut off when I leave the shop. From the disco, it goes to the heater via a sealtite whip.

[Anthony Diodati]

Here's the thing that got me, See I went to this link, (well it was a $40.00 off coupon then)
http://www.stoorz.com/i/dayton-g73-e...=Mdayton%20g73
And it clearly shows the **DAYTON** heater, right?
Then if you click >>Get Coupon/Buy It>> It takes you to the Air-N-Water site, and sells you the NewAir G73.
Now I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the little NewAir G73, but The original Ad, *Clearly showing the DAYTON*,then switching to the NewAir one made me a little bit mad.
See I thought I was ordering the Dayton when I really was ordering the NewAir version.
Thanks, Tony

[Bob Winkler]

Strange- perhaps this is their way of not having to deal with the Dayton thermostat issue.

Bob

[Anthony Diodati]

Man, might have saved some money, Oh well, here is a 5,000 watt Fahrenheat one for $187.49
http://www.farmandfleet.com/catalog/...76&h=050460001
Thanks,
Tony

Of course, Now they are out of them........LOL
Tony

[Ian Wormsbecker]

As an FYI, while I was away this weekend, my Dayton heater thermostat burned itself out again. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.

I will be making some phone calls in the morning


Ian

[Myk Rian]

I have the same heater, but different problem. My thermostat sticks closed, resulting in my heater running continuously. Luckily, I monitor the shop temp from my house and then go out and turn off the breaker. What a PITA. I bought a line-level Honeywell thermostat and will install it this weekend or sooner if I can get to it. My plan is to bypass the existing troublesome thermostat and use the remote mounted thermostat.

Mine just crapped out on me last night. It wouldn't shut off.
I'll be calling a few places in town to see if I can find something to replace it with.
Number on the T-stat is 5813-11002-000

[Mike Cruz]

Myk, if it is your thermostat that crapped out on you, and it is the thermostat you want to try to replace, call whomever you bought the heater from and they will likely replace the thermostat for free. If you just want to replace the whole heater, that is a different story. But it seems to me that these heaters are much like our shop equipment...4 different brand names that all look the same, probably all made by one manufacturer with the same parts but different labels.

[Bob Winkler]

If it's an option for you, the line-level remote thermostat has been working great now for several weeks. It actually holds temp much better since it's located at eye level instead of in the heater. I'm glad I made the change, since I lost confidence in the reliability of the OEM thermostat.

Bob

[Myk Rian]

I called a local electric supply this morning. They had an almost direct replacement for the OEM part.
It's a TPI Corp. Model TBS single pole. PCN 01054602. I only had to open the 2 mounting holes up with a next size drill bit to get an extra 1/16" between them.
I'm adjusting it for temp right now. Made in Tennessee.
www.tpicorp.com but the T-stat I have doesn't show up. This is actually a T-stat for baseboard heaters, in case that helps anyone looking for a replacement.
If this one doesn't hold up, I'll go with an external line control.

After removing the OEM stat I looked at the wires and terminals very closely. One of the crimps was starting to show darkening from heat. Hmmm.

[Nick Sebastian]

I liked the high airflow of the Dayton (Fahrenheit clone) because I wanted to move a lot of air around. Except for the wimpy built-in thermostat, I think the Dayton is a good heater at a reasonable price.

And my opinion is that its rarely a good idea to use a plug on a high-wattage heater that will be running unattended. Most manuals recommend against it.

Bob

Bob. This is my first post and you had the cure for my issue with the 3UG73. It is about a year old and has been working fine until New Year's Day when I noticed it was stopped. No click from the thermostat. When I opened the bottom I saw the same thing mentioned many times in this thread... As you see from pic below
image.jpg
After trying to find the replacement/revised part I came upon this thread and your solution with a remote line voltage thermostat. Just wired as it were the original stat. Used a Honeywell 22amp single pole 2 wire and some 10/2. Works like a charm including all the pre warm and cool down features.

Thanks