Dayton Heater - Check the Thermostat Wiring

[Anthony Diodati]

"I opened the bottom and saw the wire going to the tstat was burnt somewhat. "
May want to call/e mail the CO and maybe send them the picture and get another one sent out, (
heater, or replacment T-Stat).

Just wondering, how does the replacement Y-Stat get wired in? Does it have a length(s) of wire(s) already attached to it that you wire nut in?

As stated on another thread, I just got the Air&Water version of the G72, Got it for $238.99,free shipping, with some kind of free little space heater, (that I did not get yet, e mailed them) looks to have the same specs as the Dayton, except for the fan CFM, 200/Air&Water, 270/Dayton. Don't know if the Air&Water brand had any problems with the T-Stat. Was still kicking around how to wire it, plug, No plug, read about the one plug catching on fire, so don't think I'll use a plug. Maybe wanted some type of shut off, cant tell from the book weather the T-Stat turns it *OFF* or sets it to it's *LOWEST SETTING* . Also they spec. a M/C, or A/C type of cable, or "whip" from a box to the heater,but my local home center did not know what I was talking about, and I did not see such a thing. Here is a page from the manual, TY, Tony
newair-g73- Operation.jpg

[Don Jarvie]

The other thread by Mike Cruz has more info from Marley who make the heater for Dayton and where to send back the thermostat for a replacement.

My theory is the 14g wire can't handle the load and is burning up. I replaced the line with 10g and it's worked fine so far.

[Anthony Diodati]

I will be running 10/2 NM from my breaker to a J box ,and from the J box to the heater, as per my manual, I got about 5 feet of 10/2 with ground, Alum MC cable. I am assuming the Alum pertains to the jacket, as the wire is copper. It has a separate green insulated ground wire.
I forgot to ask the fellow at the elect supply about this, but do I need these
anti short bushing's I read about in another thread, and if so, might a hardware store have them? What holds them in, as there is no "bonding wire"
run along this cable, as referred to in the other post.
Also what about the cable clamps, can I just use the same kind I have for NM, or does the MC take a special one?
Here is the other post, and a picture of the anti short bushing's
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...light=MC+cable
Thanks, Tony
Antishort-bushing.jpg

[Don Jarvie]

They make cable clamps for use with metal covered wire so you dont crush the alum when you tighten it. I don't know anything about the anti short bushings.

[Anthony Diodati]

Thanks Don.
I got this type pictured, but not sure if I like them or not, as it seems this style could crush the MC also. I am looking for the type that screw on, but my local ACE did not have the right size.
From what I have read, the NEC does not require the anti short bushings for MC cable, but some
of the manufactures recommend them. However the NEC does require them on AC cable.
Here is a good PDF on AC and MC cable.
http://www.afcweb.com/pdf/afc_install_guide_0704.pdf
Thanks, Tony
MC 007 2.jpg

[Thomas Short]

Another update.
The retailer I bought the first two units through sent me a replacement via Grainger.

It appears to be the exact same; the wiring to the t'stat is the same red 14GA wire, the t'stat has the same numbering, etc.

I have installed it and as before it is running fine so far. It is a little concerning, as there appears to be no difference. I read the above about putting a 10GA jumper to the t'stat, but am not sure I am comfortable with this, as I do not fully understand the nature of the problem - is it not a little unusual for the t'stat to carry the line voltage and load? I am going to keep a close eye on this unit; if it fails in the same way then I am finished with the Dayton unit until the issue is resolved. I feel OK about the fire risk; there is nothing combustible in the bottom compartment, and it is surrounded by pretty heavy gauge steel.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks
Thomas

[Mike Cruz]

Thomas, yes the replacement looks pretty much the same, but I think these came from a different "run" or something. My understanding is that the problem wasn't anything directly with the thermostat, but with the connections. If there was a bad crimp, or loose contact, then it overheated. I agree with you that I wouldn't change the wire size. Why? Two reasons: There might actually be a reason to have a smaller gauge wire for these runs. I don't know what it might be, but there might; Also, IF I have another problem, I have a leg to stand on with a complaint. If I tamper with the thermostat in any way, well, there goes my case.

Mine has been working just fine since the swap out.

[Don Jarvie]

After talking with an electrican friend he said the stranded wire can hold more amps than the solid core wire so that could be the reason they put the 14g wire in the unit.

Mine has been running fine with the 10g I put in.

[Bob Winkler]

I have the same heater, but different problem. My thermostat sticks closed, resulting in my heater running continuously. Luckily, I monitor the shop temp from my house and then go out and turn off the breaker. What a PITA. I bought a line-level Honeywell thermostat and will install it this weekend or sooner if I can get to it. My plan is to bypass the existing troublesome thermostat and use the remote mounted thermostat.

[Mike Cruz]

Bob, that is EXACTLY what mine was doing before it melted. I would replace that pronto!

[Anthony Diodati]

I bought a line-level Honeywell thermostat and will install it this weekend or sooner if I can get to it. My plan is to bypass the existing troublesome thermostat and use the remote mounted thermostat.

Bob, is that a SPST T-Stat, So you would just wire the 2 contacts on the T-stat in place of the
factory T=Stat?
Thanks, Tony

[Bob Winkler]

Tony, that's my plan.

[Anthony Diodati]

Thanks Bob

[Rick Moyer]

Seems like so far everyone of these that failed, the ones we have the info on, have the same numbers on the thermostat and also have two red wires. As I stated earlier, mine has two black wires and a different thermostat number. SO, is it the wiring or the thermostat? I guess we still really don't know. I am inclined to believe it is either bad crimping, as the color of the wire certainly doesn't matter, or a malfunctioning thermostat. But, I don't understand how a bad thermostat would cause the arcing/burning so my limited knowledge would make me think a bad run of crimping the connections. I don't suspect mine will be a problem but it would still be nice to know the cause.

[Bob Winkler]

I don't know or care about the root cause at this point. In my mind, poor wire crimps would not cause the Tstat to stay closed. I inspected the Tstat and saw no evidence of heat or arcing, yet sometimes the heater stays running. For me, the location of the tstat is also an issue, since I don't believe that you can accurately sense the correct temp at the unit. My solution is to eliminate all the problems by installing a remote Tstat 15' from the heater.

Bob