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Thread: Drywall Thickness

  1. #1

    Drywall Thickness

    I will soon be drywalling the shop. What thickness is recomended for the ceiling and walls. The rafters are 2' on center and insulated with R30. The walls are also insulated, and 10' tall. I can get 1/2" in 10' sheets which would make alot less seams on the walls to mud. That is always good, but is 1/2" thick enough??

  2. #2
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    1/2" worked fine for me when I built my shop about 5 years ago. The structure is a stick-on-slab type construction I had a contractor put up. I did all the internal wiring, insulation, sheetrock, and painting.

    I have a 9 ft. ceiling and used 4x8 ft. sheets, applied horizontally, mostly because of the price at Home Depot. Splicing a one ft. section on the bottom wasn't much fun but worked fine. I bought a panel lift to use on the ceiling sheets. It also worked fine on the top wall sheets. I worked alone so the weight of 1/2 inch 4x8 wallboard (~52 lbs. each) was reasonable to handle. The 10 footers might be a rough go.

    I had HD deliver the pile of 98 sheets. I laid down a sheet of thick plastic, then four spaced 2x4s for the stack to sit on. I worked all thru the damp winter putting up the insulation, wiring, and sheetrock. The plastic and 2x4 base kept the rock completely dry.

  3. #3
    1/2" is plenty. The 10' lengths will depend on your area. Where we are lumberyards and home centers only stock 8', and 12'. We buy at a commercial yard that stocks 8,10, and 12'.

    That said, it's much easier to finish drywall hung horizontally. Much easier to walk a long horizontal joint than to finish a 10' vertical. Commonly with 10' walls you hang a full sheet horizontal at the top, a two foot (1/2 sheet) in the center, and a full sheet at the bottom. The drawback is the but joints but there are ways to backup the but joints making them like a taper so they are easy to finish.

    Mark

  4. #4
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    Particularly with 2' o.c. spacing I'd go with 5/8" drywall. Personally, I prefer the 5/8" over 1/2" due to it being more damage resistant. You can crack or dent 1/2" with your hand. The 5/8" withstands more abuse.

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    Agree with Thomas... 1/2" is generally not acceptable code for 2' OC.
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    I agree with Thomas and Dan.... With 2 ft OC, you need 5/8" sheetrock.
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  7. #7
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    5/8" for the ceiling I thought was usually code. resists sagging. 1/2" for walls. I was able to use OSB for my shop, and it sure has been nice for screwing in hangers and such. Plus, built in texture!!! Jim.
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  8. #8
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    It depends on your local building codes. Where I live 24" OC is perfectly fine with 1/2 drywall. In fact they encourage 24" over 16" due to thermal benefits. The reason for 5/8" is fire codes.

    USG recommends 5/8" perpendicularly applied for 24" OC if you are using 1 1/2" metal studs and your drywall sheets are a base for spray-applied ceiling texture finish. With wood, or even with 3 1/2" metal studs you need not worry about that.

    Under your scenario I'd feel comfortable with 1/2" drywall, but I would still make sure it's installed perpendicular to the rafters.
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  9. #9
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    Run strapping perpendicular to the rafters 16 o.c. More wood to screw the 1/2 rock into. If you use a cleat on the end of each piece for the ceiling you can just push the rock up and screw it. The cleats will require more holes to fill after but it can be done alone.

  10. #10
    Matt; One thing you didn't mention in your request, was whether the shop is free-standing, or attached to 'inhabitable space'. IF attached, 5/8" is required by most building codes - but it gets a little tricky:
    If it's an attached 'garage' type space, 5/8" is required on ALL walls/ceilings adjoining the living space; if no living space above the garage/shop, then only the adjoining wall (INCLUDING ATTIC space)!
    HOWEVER; in my case, there is a 'bonus' room above the 3-car garage. Not only did I have to 5/8 the adjoining wall and ceiling, but also the other 3 walls of the garage (I.e. the whole magilla) because "those outside walls are supporting the living space above". Fortunately I learned that BEFORE delivery of the 1/2" material!! Believe it or not, your local building/zoning department CAN be your friend. Considering, of course, whether or not you pull a permit to begin with rolleyes.gif
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  11. #11
    I would go with the 5/8" applied horizontally. Two full sheets, and then the rip at the top, as you are most likely going to have to do some trimming anyway, plus you are already going to have to tape and mud the joint between ceiling and wall. If your ceiling is trusses, you might want to use clips at the edge of the ceiling. By attaching drywall to the top plate, many cracks can be eliminated before they happen.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darius Ferlas View Post
    It depends on your local building codes. ... The reason for 5/8" is fire codes.

    ...
    Our code requires 5/8".
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  13. #13
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    I used 1/2 high strength ceiling drywall. It will span 24" OC.

  14. #14
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    I'm going to agree with Jim, have you thought of using OSB instead of drywall? OSB on the walls makes it very nice to hang anything, almost anywhere. I would recommend drywall on the ceiling though...

  15. #15
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    Just a note for those doing finish work on their shops... bare OSB as a wall covering is not fire-rated like drywall. This can be a big code issue for some, so keep that in mind.
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